After being in Oregon for two glorious, fun-packed months, it is finally time to say goodbye. Summer is fleeting, and the entire state of Washington is still yet to be explored. I have loved the state of Oregon more than any other state in the US…granted, I have yet to spend a winter here. But the winters would have to be pretty darned horrendous to offset the glory days of summer.

So I leave behind the Columbia River RV Park, no sales tax, and the luxury of all fuel stops being full service gas stations as I cross the bridge into Washington State bound for Mount Rainier.

I pull out at noon, and park at the Safeway to finish my particularly long work day before I get underway.   My plan is to overnight before I reach the park entrance at some free camping spot like a Walmart or a Casino parking lot along the way, but there are none. I keep driving further and further as what little sunlight left is swallowed up by the darkness of the thick forest canopy. Finally, I have reached the Mount Rainier park entrance without my planned overnight stop. I have no choice now but to keep going deeper into the park and hope there is an open campsite.

The nine mile road from the Nisqually entrance is under construction, with large gaps in the pavement every quarter mile, so it is slow going. It is dark by the time I reach the first campground, Cougar Rock. This is the first kiosk I have seen where you pay for your campsite by swiping a credit card. I am relieved to meet a man at the kiosk who tells me the park is quiet, with quite a few open spots. He suggests I try Loop A where the “big rigs” usually stay. Luck is with me, as the tent campers seem to have left me one lone, level pull thru. I awake the next morning to realize just how lucky I am, as I seem to have one of the only campsites in the heavily treed campground with no shade over my solar panels. 😉

Campsite A9 in Cougar Rock. Sun where you want it….shade where you don’t!

But where a signal is concerned, I am not so lucky. I have come this far without letting any of my family know my whereabouts. It’s nine miles back down the choppy road to the park entrance and another six to Ashford, the last place I had a signal, so I must drive the 30 miles round trip to send an email home. I also take this opportunity to refuel the Tracker, as Ashford is the last opportunity. There is no fuel available in the park…not only diesel, but no gas either. And it is a LONG way across the park!

Now with my chores out of the way, I set out to explore the park by driving the scenic road to Paradise, location of Paradise Lodge and the largest of the park’s Visitor Centers. It doesn’t take long before the breathtaking mountain is in full view in all its snow capped splendor. The sight literally takes my breath away, and I stop at every pull-out to take a ridiculous number of photos of the same mountain, different angle. But it is so beautiful, I just can’t stop shooting!

Sometimes, this lifestyle moves me to tears…

Paradise is a beehive of activity, as this is the most popular dropping off point for climbers on their attempt to summit the 14,409 ft mountain. There are outfitter trucks parked all along the way, and I enjoy the hum of energy that comes from listening to the guides give instructions on what to expect. Conversations overheard range from instructions for the novice on how to put on a heavy backpack without straining one’s back, to when “skins” should be strapped onto skis (strips of material with hair or scales that prevent the climber from sliding backwards on their uphill trek through the snow.) I sit on the bench for a long while, listening to these conversations, and have the good fortune to be there when a group returns from the summit. Sighs of relief from removal of heavy boots, slaps on the back, handshakes, and congratulatory photos for having “made it.” One woman shouted “I feel so ALIVE!” I am fascinated by this sport, and feel a bit sad that I will never have this experience. Yet their elation is so palpable, I can relate to the joy that they are feeling.

Backpacker Meeting Point “at the flagpole.”

Beautiful Paradise Lodge

I am surprised to learn that even the fancy Paradise Lodge has no cellular or wifi service. The Lodge is booked to capacity. I wouldn’t have thought there were that many people willing to pay over $100 a night to be off the grid!

I go into the Visitor’s Center to inquire about hikes and my best opportunity to see wildflowers, but the ranger tells me that all trails at this elevation are still covered in snow! He explains that due to the weather patterns over the mountain, Paradise is the “second snowiest place on earth.” Second only to nearby Mount Baker, Paradise receives on average 641 inches of snow per year!

Bench and Snow Lake Trail

Trail to Bench Lake

Avalanche Lily

The Ranger suggests I hike the Bench Lake and Snow Lake trail at a bit lower elevation for some good wildflower views, particularly of the Avalanche Lily, which emerges shortly after the snow has melted. He tells me not to bypass Reflection Lake along the way…

No further explanation necessary!

Bear Grass

This trail is only 2.5 miles round trip, but the estimated time to hike is 2 hours. I soon find out why, as it is a succession of ups and downs over small ridges that give my knees quite a work out. The views of the mountain are spectacular!

Hello, young lovers, whoever you are…

Snow Lake

I drive a bit further through the scenic Stevens Canyon. But it is getting late, so I decide to make Box Canyon my turnaround point. I hike this short, but stunning loop trail around the deep forest canyon cut by decades of rushing water. The narrow canyon reaches well over 100 feet in depth, but never more than 30 feet wide across.

Box Canyon Overlook

Short loop around Box Canyon

Rangers doing research 😉

I head back to the Cougar Rock Campground as the near full moon is rising over the ridge, and vow to get an earlier start tomorrow…

Do you think the mountain looks better in PINK?

Or RED??