I’ve now driven just about all of Highway 101 from south to north through three states, starting in Arcata, California in mid-May all the way to Forks, Washington, where the highway soon begins to turn eastward. This feels like a significant milestone after traveling in a northwesterly direction for so many months.
It’s turning out to be a hot day, as we all depart Mora Campground, one by one, saying our goodbyes and promises to meet up down the road. Jim and Gayle are going to brave the curvy roads and omnipresent fog of Neah Bay. Kim, Debbie, Carla and Chuck are headed toward Heart O’ the Hills Campground. Karen and Hailey are off to hike the Hoh. And me? I am continuing my quest to explore one of our nation’s largest National Parks over a weekend!
There are three things still left on my Olympic National Park “must see” list, and I only have one day left to see them. I still have yet to explore Hurricane Ridge, Lake Crescent, and Sol Duc Falls and Hot Springs. But first, I need to find a place to park my home for the day, as my planned destination for the work week, Port Townsend, would be too far to backtrack.
Steep road to Hurricane Ridge
Port Angeles looks like a good spot with lots of retail parking lots where I can unhitch and legitimately park the Winnie for the afternoon while I explore in the “moon rover.” But the town is packed! The road to Hurricane Ridge has just reopened after a morning bike race, so the streets are filled with tourists, bikers, and Sunday morning churchgoers. And as a result of the bike race, there is no fee for access to the park this day. So Sunday at the park’s most popular attraction on a “fee free day” with nary a cloud in the sky….you get the picture. They need an Overflow Parking Lot for the Overflow Parking Lot.
Still, I brave the overflow parking, elbow-to-elbow Visitor’s Center, roaring Harley Hogs and screaming families to get off a few photos. After all, this is the park’s pinnacle, right?? I start out to do a hike, but my heart is just not in it. By now, the sun is dead overhead, and even at slight altitude, it is HOT! I do a paltry little loop at the top, and race back to the Tracker so I can feel the breeze flying back down the hill.
Strait of Juan de Fuca. Light strip along the water in the foreground is Port Angeles. Light strip along the water in the distance is Victoria, BC.
Next stop, Lake Crescent. I get a nice surprise, as I hadn’t realized Highway 101 would skirt the edge of the lake. The views are breathtaking. It is difficult to stay focused on the road with such scenery, so I pull over at one of the roadside pullouts and walk down to the water’s edge to admire the lake. At over 600 feet deep, this glacially carved lake is a shimmering deep turquoise, so clear that I can see the bottom for a good distance. The water is so inviting that the urge to jump in overwhelms me. I can practically feel my inflatable Sea Eagle kayak trying to jump out of the back of my Tracker.
Scenes along Highway 101
Once more, as I did at Clear Lake, I find myself stressing out over not having enough time to experience all the options available to me. There is the hike to Marymere Falls. I could easily launch the inflatable kayak. Or there is still the drive to Sol Duc, though I am running out of time to drive the distance, do the hike, and still have enough time for the hot springs. Besides, I am roasting in the intense sun. Beneath the black “rag top” of the Tracker, I can feel my brain baking. I can’t fathom a hot springs right now. All I want to do is get in that lake.
Lake Crescent Lodge, beautiful were it not for the crowds
I drive on to Lake Crescent Lodge, but it is crawling with people, both inside and out. I think about doing the Marymere Falls Trail, but there is a flock of kids at the trailhead. I am losing it at this point. I consider returning to the Winnie and calling it a wash. But I have no hookups, and I left all the windows closed. It must be over 90 degrees inside my fiberglass cube by now.
I get the crazy idea to drive back to the turnout. In a move that would make Houdini blush, I change into my swimsuit inside the Tracker in the parking lot. Then I walk down to the lake in one continuous stride. I don’t hesitate, because I know if I stop when my toes hit the bracing water, I’ll chicken out. Instead, I shoot out beyond the rocks, feeling the bottom drop out from beneath me. Just as my body draws the blood inward to protect my core temperature from the icy numbing water that surrounds my skin, my perception narrows until all thoughts of the stress, the heat, the traffic, the kids float away on the sun-glinted ripples of the lake’s surface. My thoughts disperse into this cool, refreshingly clear, delicious body of water that now suspends me, insulating me from the heat, isolating me from the crowds, and buoying me up from the weight of self-imposed pressure of that I have to see it all. In the only National Park where I have struggled to find a “happy place,” I am at once content.
“There is a subtle magnetism in Nature, which, if we unconsciously yield to it, will direct us aright.” ~Henry David Thoreau
The addition of people DOES definitely make a difference in perception of a spot. When we were there in mid-September of 2006, there were almost no people there at all – so someone must have blabbed about the gorgeousness of the area ‘twixt then and now. We had a leisurely bowl of the most scrumptious cream of mushroom soup, that I have tried valiantly, albeit totally unsuccessfully, to duplicate. Then a relaxed half hour or so in the chairs overlooking the lake. A walk around the cabin area . . . everything stunningly beautiful.
Hailey and I loved Lake Crescent too. I speared my memories of days past from my youth, of simple fun filled days in the sun. Hailey enjoyed the water, made teenage friends so we stayed late in the day, each of us enjoying the splendor in our own way. Glad you found your own special way to celebrate the day!
Oh!.You are so brave, that water is co-co-cold…On a hot day it must be refreshing. I’ve only gone in up to..there…in the summer time weekday.
Mostly empty during the weekdays, along with the campground on the Western end. I think it is Fairholm?
Have you heard about the missing couple in 1929?..They just found their car a few years back.
David
I envy you having travelled this road. Since I was a younster studying the USA in High School this road and Route 66 are iconic routes. Both roads pass through so many towns that have either featured in songs or books, Steinbeck comes to mind. So good for you and thanks for blogging about the trip.
I was stressing out just reading your post…so glad you ended up in the right place, the cool, wet, refreshing place!
Yeah, I could feel your angst alright. I love the way you write as I feel like I’m there. I’m not shy of cold water but I am shy of walking around in a bathing suit! You’re brave girl, brave.
Paige and I visited there about 6 years ago in early September. We actually stayed 2 or 3 nights at the Lake Crescent Lodge. It was after Labor day during the week and not so crowded when we stayed there. I do remember the restaurant at the lodge being pretty decent. Swimming in the lake was definitely icy cold but fun for a body shock. Hurricane Ridge is spectacular. It’s amazing how incredible the view is with so little work to get to the vista point. If I remember correctly, the entire path to the vista was mostly paved. On our walk back from the vista, an adolescent bear was up hill running on an upper path directly above us. I would love to go back there one day and hike through the entire park, camping along the way. It’s just too much to see and the park is so huge, I’m sure we just scratched the surface. We also spent some time in the Hoh Rain forest and stayed a night over there. Amazing trees everywhere. Neah Bay is well worth the drive, just an incredible vista. It’s on Indian land, and the local indians make delicious smoked wild salmon that you have to try. I have to read through your earlier posts but if you haven’t been there yet and swing back through Seatlle, you have to eat in Wild Ginger in downtown Seattle. Just get a seat at the bar and order lots of different things, it’s all great for either Lunch or Dinner. Wish your timing out there was for early September, I would have happily met you out there! One of my favorite parts of the country overall!
Judie — I suspect September is not as bad as August, or at least I hope so! We are told because summer is so late arriving in Washington, the kids don’t go back to school until mid-Sept. Hopefully it will quieten down soon…
Karen — I am so glad you and Hailey had a great day at Lake Crescent! You deserve some R&R, especially after that towing to Hurricane Ridge! 😉
David — YES, it was c-c-cold, but sometimes we have to suck it up for the sake of “No regrets,” right? I haven’t heard about the couple…going to google it.
Dave — I always love your UK perspective. I hope to drive Route 66 one day, and hope that you will still be following along!
Lisa — Yes, I think the stressful lead-in made the swim that much more delicious!
Susie — What a nice thing to say about my writing. It is a passion, and I always appreciate when someone says they feel like they are along with me. Thanks so much.
Dan — So great to see you in my comment box!! Thanks for the nice words. I owe you an email, I know! Surrounded by sailboats now, so I think of you and Paige so often! Thanks for following along…
Thinking of you too, we just extracted the early summer honey from the bees. We’ll send you some! Way better than the fall honey!
Susie, I recently found your blog, maybe through “Wheeling-it” or “me and my RV “. You write beautifully, photos are spectacular also. I started reading several blogs about a year ago, sharing these adventures with my husband since we planned to retire in 2 -3 years. We were unsure if we would be permanent RVers or just out 3 months at a time. Travel and adventure, our goal. Well, my life changed drastically when my husband died completely unexpectedly may 31st. I have been devastated as you can well imagine. Most of our conversation over the last year included discussion about what type of RV, upgrade on car depended on that decision, etc etc. It’s too early to make decisions now, but in my heart, I believe Will would be disappointed if I didn’t travel and pursue our dreams. He will be traveling with me in spirit, but seems to sad to do it alone since the grief is so fresh. I continue to read the blogs, have thoroughly enjoyed finding yours. The women traveling alone confirm that maybe I can do this alone also, just not permanently since I need too much emotional support from home folks right now. Thank you for journaling your wonderful adventures so beautifully and sharing them so generously.