After my three day weekend in the San Juan Islands, I arrive back to the Anacortes Cap Sante Marina. Already the place seems more welcoming as Jim and Gayle, Debbie, and Kim have all arrived, and Karen and Hailey are on their way. The friendly faces and laughs help ease me through the “back to work blahs.”
All the mud puddles around my rig and my psyche from three straight days of rain last week have disappeared. The rain has done wonders to settle the dust from the boat trailer traffic. The weather forecast for the week couldn’t be better. I have moved my rig up to Site #2, with only one other rig in between me and the marina. I can see hundreds of gorgeous sailboats from my bedroom window. So things are looking up here. I have settled in, and committed to seek out the beauty of my surroundings.
I start with a little “retail therapy.” Anacortes has one of the largest West Marine stores I have seen, like a giant Toys’R Us store for grown-ups. I buy a new pair of Sperry Topsiders, so I can feel like I am on a boat, even when I’m not.
The rains last week kept me indoors, so I am eager to explore the Tommy Thompson bike trail. At 6.5 miles round trip, the trail follows the waterfront, cuts through a boat yard, and runs across an old railway trestle across Fidalgo Bay to March’s Point. The trail was named for a local railway enthusiast.
Nothing lifts my spirits like a lighthouse, and I had passed up a beauty on my way from the Port Townsend Ferry, not wanting to stop while towing. So I backtrack to Fort Casey to tour the Admiralty Head Lighthouse. Like Westport and North Head, this is another Carl Leick creation, only this one is built in a very different non-traditional lighthouse style. Built in 1093, it is more along the lines of a Spanish mansion. Admiralty Head sits directly across from Point Wilson, the lighthouse in Port Townsend’s Fort Worden, both guiding ships through the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
I stop on the way back in the cute little town of Coupeville, built right along Penn Cove. The town was founded in 1852, and is the second oldest town in Washington.
Though small, it has lots of historic buildings, including Toby’s Tavern, built in 1890. Toby’s is known for their Penn Cove Mussels, some of the most famous shellfish in the PNW. Tonight’s offerings are white wine and basil or spicy steamed in five different peppers. I request “half and half.” Paired with Toby’s own “Parrot Red Ale” from the Anacortes Brewery, this makes the perfect “last supper” along the seacoast.
Anacortes has been a significant destination for me since I first began heading northwest. Not only did it come highly recommended by friends, coupled with the fact that it is the premier yachting gateway in the PNW. But it has felt like a noteworthy milepost as I have been exploring the Pacific NW coastline since early May. I am now out of coastline, and must turn east if I am to make it to Glacier National Park before the Going to the Sun Road shuts down. So this final week in Anacortes will be my last week near the ocean for who knows how long. I am not yet ready to leave, so it is a bittersweet goodbye. It may not have been a love affair, but I could sure move in and stay awhile…
“It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.” — Sir Francis Drake
Ah, but think of the shoreline to continue exploring both north and south of OR and WA next year! Still plenty left to see, and you’ve not even gone whale watching or sea kayaking yet!
Lovely, final sunsets! Good travels East to you.
Nina
What a great sunset you caught from the bridge.
That’s quite a crew you were hanging out with at the bar! They look familiar…
Gayle
Glad you and Ana got back together… Just a Lover’s tiff 🙂
Box Canyon Mark
Sorry I fell asleep during Happy Hour.
Looks like a good meetup with the gang!
I always find it a little sad to leave the ocean…well the islands are practically in the ocean anyway. I am glad our travels take us past many different types of bodies of water or waterways, water in general is a balm to the soul I believe.
SO glad you discovered Toby’s! Several years ago, the owner of Toby’s was the first business in Island County to institute a ‘no-smoking’ policy. It was quite controversial at the time, especially considering it’s a tavern. The head of the Island County Health Department nominated the owner for “Health Hero of the Year” award. Not sure if he won, but it was a stellar choice.
Lynne — Yes, all those sea kayaking opportunities are reason enough to return! I might need a kayak upgrade though. 😉
Nina — And happy hosting to you, my friend!
Gayle — Yes, they manage to find all the best beer spots.
BC Mark — Thanks for introducing us…
Kim — Well, you did tell me you get bored easily. And I wasn’t even talking about quilting!
Lisa — I can’t agree more! I am drawn to water like a magnet.
Dawn — I LOVE that story about Toby’s! That makes me even happier about my dinner choice. The mussels there were delish!
Absolutely stunning country, which we hope to explore next year. Thank you for all the interesting posts and wonderful photos of the area. I echo what other readers have said, water stills my spirit, allowing for clarity in the moment. Safe travels getting to Glacier. 🙂