An Arch Trail or a Narc Trail?

Much of the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument has been closed since 2003 due to illegal cross-border activity. Back in 2002, one of their own, Ranger Kris Eggle, was gunned down in an attempt to apprehend members of a drug cartel. They renamed the Visitor Center in his honor, and later closed down much of the park in fear that they could not protect the visitors.

Tribute to fallen Ranger

Tribute to fallen Ranger

Many have seen this sign...this was my first.

Many have seen this sign…this was my first.

View of the arch in upper right over Arch Canyon Trail from Ajo Mountain Road.

View of the arch in upper right over Arch Canyon Trail from Ajo Mountain Road.

A more recent review of statistics revealed that Organ Pipe is no more dangerous than other parks of a similar size, so reopening of the closed sections, along with traveler education began in 2014. Most of this education comes in the form of signage and increased staff within the park. Though I did not encounter any officials within the park on any of my drives or hikes, from time I spent traveling on Hwy 85, I can tell you 90% of the vehicles I saw were Border Patrol, beefed up to include ATVs, canine units, elaborate horse trailers, helicopters, and hundreds of white trucks with the green “Border Patrol” insignia on the side. Just outside of Why, AZ is a Border Patrol complex that would rival the ground fleet of a FedEx hub.IMG_1185IMG_1725

A zoomed-in shot reveals there is a smaller arch over the arch.

A zoomed-in shot reveals there is a smaller arch over the arch.

Having spent so much time in Mexico, I have mixed feelings about what sometimes seems like such an absurd attempt to “control our borders.” I can’t help but admire the tenacity and resolve of undocumented workers who risk life and limb all for the sake of making a better life for their families. But according to the Park Ranger, the concern is more for “smugglers” than undocumented workers. And ultimately, who is responsible? Those on the supply end, or the side of the insatiable demand? My friends in Mexico tell me that the quality of drugs coming out of California these days is getting to be so superior to what you can get in Mexico, that the smuggling will soon reverse directions.IMG_1736IMG_1149

I set out with the intention of doing both hikes along Ajo Mountain Road, beginning with the Arch Canyon Trail. The brochure says it is an easy trail, less than a mile each way, out and back. I can see the beautiful arch from the Ajo Mountain Road. Once I reach the trail head, it beckons me. It is unique in that it has a smaller, very frail arch above it, making it a double arch. I want to go up there for a closer look.

Beautiful Arch Canyon Trail off Ajo Mountain Road

Beautiful Arch Canyon Trail off Ajo Mountain Road

Signage leaves much to interpretation regarding whether or not there is a trail to the arch...

Signage leaves much to interpretation regarding whether or not there is a trail to the arch…

The signage at the trail head makes it clear that the Arch Canyon Trail does not go to the arch. However, it leaves a bit to interpretation on whether or not there is a trail. Since I have not checked with a Ranger, I decide I will be content with the canyon hike. Unless I see a trail. 😉

There are no signs in the bottom of the canyon except those warning of smugglers. The canyon route appears to continue long past the posted distance of 0.75 miles. After what seems like well past a mile, I come to a sign that says “Caution. Steep, rocky route ahead.” This sounds a bit like the description back at the trail head for the arch, but there is no indicator where or if the Canyon trail has ended. I decide to keep going. I set my boundary that I will turn around if one of two things happens – the trail becomes indistinguishable, or I have to scramble beyond my comfort zone – neither of which happens. About the time I think I have lost the trail, another well placed cairn appears, and about the time I start to struggle with the terrain, the trail levels out. It is consistently challenging, yet navigable enough to keep me going.IMG_1172IMG_1139

One of the many cairns guiding me to the canyon rim.

One of the many cairns guiding me to the canyon rim.

Finally, after climbing for well over an hour, I reach the canyon rim. The views from here are knee-knocking gorgeous! The wind is howling on the top, and I now understand the reasoning behind the name, “organ pipe.” Not only do these beautiful cacti resemble the pipes in an organ, but the wind blowing through the spines produces an eerie vibrational tune that changes pitch with the speed and direction of the wind. I stand on top of the canyon rim for a good long while, my eyes closed, face and ears positioned “head-to-wind” in the middle of the “pipes,” listening to this haunting melody. As if I weren’t in love with the desert already!IMG_1140 IMG_1145 IMG_1147

But there is no sign of the arch. As I walk around the top of the ridge, I can see I am too high. I need to climb down further, and more in the direction of the main canyon. Again, I vow I will stop when the cairns stop, but I continue to be led. The problem is, the arch is not visible from this side of the canyon, but I can see the shadow of the arch below me in the canyon, and see I am way off target.

I can see the shadow cast by the arch below me.  Very frustrating!

I can see the shadow cast by the arch below me. Very frustrating!

I find "an" arch, but not "the" arch.

I find “an” arch, but not “the” arch.

Still, views over Arch Canyon trail are breathtaking.

Still, views over Arch Canyon trail are breathtaking.

I have been warned to watch for signs of smugglers…empty backpacks, food wrappers, black water bottles. But there are none. Nary an orange peel. This trail is cleaner than any I have ever seen.

Finally, I run out of trail. I can see the arch below me, but there does not appear to be a way. “You can’t get there from here.” This is extremely frustrating, but I see no more cairns ahead, and don’t have the confidence to find my way back, so I turn back.IMG_1144 IMG_1157

Once back at the Visitor Center, I ask my volunteer friend. He tells me he has known only one person to ever make it to the arch, and he had rock climbing skills. Hearing this, I don’t feel so defeated.IMG_1744 IMG_1753

I also ask him if I was following a hikers trail or a smugglers trail, to which he replies, “Probably both.” I tell him “I suspected it was a hikers trail, otherwise you guys would have knocked down the cairns, no?” “Not necessarily. There are just too many of them and too few of us.” I think back to the battalion of Border Patrol I have seen on Highway 85, the massive expanse of desert I have seen from the canyon rim, and ponder the thousands of lives risked for a little slice of “The American Dream.”

Border Patrol Checkpoint

Me: (rolling down window) “Hi! How are ya?”
BP: (slaps windowsill) “Livin’ the dream!”
Me: “Who, me? Or you?”
BP: “Both of us! Anyone else in there with you?”
Me: “Nope. Just me. I’m a solo act.”
BP: (slaps windowsill again) “Have a safe trip…keep on dreamin’!”

23 thoughts on “An Arch Trail or a Narc Trail?

  1. Dear Brave Solo Hiker Gal… forget the drug traffickers and such, that hike looks kinda snaky to me, given the time of year and warmth. I hope you carry a snake bite kit… not that they work all that well, but it’s something to distract your mind so it doesn’t freak out while waiting for the helicopter. Watch your step, please. Even in San Diego… lots of rattlers in those foothills. And FYI, Beer in not an anti venom 🙂
    Box Canyon Mark from Lovely Ouray Colorado

    • You mean I can’t just shred my space blanket and use it as a tourniquet? 😉 Good advice, BC Mark. I will up the vigilance.

  2. Great blog!
    I admire your perseverance and sensibility too. Too bad that you weren’t able to reach the arches, but if it takes rock climbing skills, I am glad that you came back down. Your intestinal fortitude in going it alone is admirable. From the pictures there seems much beauty in Organ Pipe. Once again I enjoy it through your eyes and camera.

    • Thanks, Allen. This park was so empty, it was “go it alone,” or don’t go at all! It was beauty that begged exploring. I felt very safe given the border patrol surround-surveillance.

  3. You were crazy to hike there alone!! This was one of the trails we didn’t do. It was rather spooky when did some of the longer trails and saw slashed tires, fenders, black gallon jugs, clothes, etc along the trail. But John said the smugglers don’t want us to see them or they’ll have to change their route. Sorry you didn’t find the arch:(

    • Hi, Pam — Oddly enough, I never encountered any evidence of trafficking, smugglers or otherwise. All trails were marked only with cairns. However, this post did have me pondering “safety as a relative term,” as we had a BMW cut us off on I-5 yesterday, going over 100 mph. My knees shook for an hour. I decided I would rather meet my fate at the hand of a smuggler than an A-hole driving a BMW!!!

  4. We loved hiking in Organ Pipe and felt safe on the trails — but there were four of us hiking together. It’s a spectacularly beautiful place and we’re looking forward to spending more time there.

    • Lisa — I agree, it was a beautiful hike, but I liked the Bull Pasture even better (next post.) I agree about the snake territory, though thankfully, they stayed hidden from me…

  5. Music from the organ pipe cactus! Fantastic! I hike alone too at times and carry a personal locator beacon in case of life threatening emergency. Do you have one? They’re small and you have to be able to lift the small antennea and press a button to set it off. It works even when there are no cell signals for your phone (which is often on these kinds of hikes). It contacts a national emergency network of search and rescue satellites, which will set a rescue operation into action. If you (or your readers) don’t have one, check them out. Mine is made by ResQLink. Have never had to use so can’t attest to its functioning (fortunately).

    • Hi, Lenore — thanks for the recommendation of the ResQLink. I have been considering getting just such a device. My friends John and BJ carry a “Spot” when they are kayaking to remote areas. I will look into both, and make a decision soon. Thanks!

  6. When we hiked this trail it wasn’t long after the ranger was killed, something we didn’t know until afterwards. At the steep trail sign we turned back as I remember that at the time it felt as though we were being watched and were glad when we back to the truck. We also had the same feeling at one of the picnic areas. So glad you made it to the top and enjoyed the hike. Have fun!

    • Cheshire Cats, thanks for the comment! I know that watched feeling you describe. Even though I never felt it here, I have before, when the hair stands up on the back of the neck. For some reason, I get that more in the woods than I do a desert, but I know the feeling!

  7. Well I salute your bravery. You are a role model to me for someone who, when they don’t have companions, does what they came to do anyway. Does your cell phone actually work there so you could follow their advice to call 911 if there was a problem? Seems pretty remote. But the idea of being able to listen to the cactus sing is just filling my mind with envy. I would definitely go there just for that. Just love the picture of the arch’s shadow and your pictures of the views are stunning. Looks like a great day to me even if you didn’t find THE arch.

    • Hi, Sherry. Surprisingly, I did have an AT&T signal, but I left the phone off most of the time, as it had a tendency to gravitate toward TelCel, the Mexico provider, and I didn’t trust my roaming settings. I was frustrated by not finding the arch at the time, but in retrospect, it was a glorious hike. And as I said to Allen, when the choice is “Go alone or don’t go at all” it’s a no brainer to me. At 60, it’s a risk I am willing to assume. 😉

  8. You are definitely a desert rat Suzanne. Too bad you didn’t make it to the arch, but it looks like a fabulous hike, you brave gal. Love your photos and how you describe the melody of the organ pipe as the wind blows past their spines.

  9. I love the desert, too. That’s why I’m living in it here in NM. Please beware of the rattlesnakes. Two weeks ago a four-footer nearly got me in the face! It only had one rattle & a button. It’s a wonder I even heard it! I always watch where I walk, I just wasn’t looking up high enough! (Yes, they climb!) Humidity is definitely not my thing. I love the dry desert climate and cool nights. Ahhhhhh….

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