Monterey to Morro Bay

I get word from Barber RV back in Ventura that my parts are due to arrive on Tuesday, and I have an appointment to go “up on the rack” first thing Wednesday morning. So I decide to break camp at San Simeon continuing north with the intent to make Monterey my turn around point for my long weekend getaway. I have no reservations for Saturday night, but figure I can always come inland a few miles and book some “highway hotel.”

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Wonder if the view would be worth the worry of when the "Big One" is going to hit?

Wonder if the view would be worth the worry of when the “Big One” is going to hit?

Carmel Mission, founded 1771

Carmel Mission, founded 1771

After many scenic vista points and stops for photos along Highway 1, I am losing daylight as I approach Monterey, so I decide to put my sightseeing on hold and start looking for a place for the night. I am all the way to Salinas before I see a group of highway hotels, so I stop at Motel 6. There is a line of three people in front of me, all waiting to hear the same news, “Sorry, we’re sold out tonite. So is the Quality Inn next door. You might try the Super 8 across the street.” (Why does no one post the neon “Vacancy” signs anymore?) All three people in front of me turn and head for their cars, so I decide to take off running across the street to the Super 8 in hopes of beating them there. I get the last room….at $154 a night! It is more than I have ever paid for a hotel room in my life….for a Super 8. When I go back to get my car still in the Motel 6 parking lot, I ask the guy coming out of the office if he had a reservation, and would he mind my asking how much he paid for his room, to which he replied, “Two hundred fourteen dollars!!! I still can’t believe I did it, but I had no choice.” He tells me Monterey has several events going on this weekend, including a Grassroots Reggae festival and an international paddling competition. I feel lucky to have landed the last room. No wonder the RV industry is booming.

Check out the artwork hanging over my Super 8 bed. At least price gouging comes with a nice view.

Check out the artwork hanging over my Super 8 bed. At least price gouging comes with a nice view.

Seawall art

Seawall Art along Monterey Bay

Bayside restaurant along Monterey's Cannery Row.

Bayside restaurant along Monterey’s Cannery Row.

There’s much to see in Monterey. It has an unexpected charm for a city of its size. I head for the famed “Cannery Row,” named for Pulitzer and Nobel prize winner, local native John Steinbeck’s 1945 novel about life during the sardine packing era of the 30’s and 40’s. The area is now one of the two greatest tourist draws, along with nearby Fisherman’s Wharf. I stroll the waterfront lined with tourist shops and restaurants, while eking out the last bits of daylight before dinner.

John Steinbeck made the sardine packing area famous with novel "Cannery Row."

John Steinbeck made the sardine packing area famous with novel Cannery Row.

Cannery Row Monument. At the top is statue of John Steinbeck, surrounded by some of his favorite characters.

Cannery Row Monument. At the top is statue of John Steinbeck, surrounded by some of his favorite characters.

Row houses that were barracks for immigrants who came to work in the canneries.

Row houses that were barracks for immigrants who came to work in the canneries.

With only a day to explore Monterey, I can’t begin to scratch the surface. I get an early start by exploring a few local landmarks such as John Steinbeck’s beautiful childhood Victorian home in Salinas. Built in 1897, this was Steinbeck’s birthplace where he lived until age 17 when he left for Stanford University. He wrote several novels and short stories from behind the upstairs front window, including Tortilla Flat.

Steinbeck's childhood home, built in 1897.

Steinbeck’s childhood home, built in 1897.

Charming little French bistro in Cannery Row.

Charming little French bistro in Cannery Row. Inside, the walls are lined with wine bottles.

A bit of a splurge, but the "Mussels Frites" were worth it!

A bit of a splurge, but the “Moules Frites” (Mussels and Fries) were worth it!

But I must prioritize my one day, so I forgo visiting the National Steinbeck Center and head for the heart of Monterey, the rugged coastline along the beautiful Monterey Bay. I pace along Asilomar State Beach while eagerly waiting for the main attraction to open. One might expect this to be the notable Monterey Bay Aquarium, but having spent many of my travels beneath the sea, aquariums are too much like zoos. No, I am watching the clock for 1:00pm when the Point Pinos Lighthouse opens for tours.

Point Pinos Lighthouse, lit 1855, is oldest on west coast.

Point Pinos Lighthouse, lit 1855, is oldest on west coast.

Although it is not possible to visit the lens room, they have gotten creative with mirrors to allow one to view the fixed 3rd Order lens.

Although it is not possible to visit the lens room, they have gotten creative with mirrors to allow one to view the fixed 3rd Order lens.

I like this diagram that gives perspective of the size of Fresnel lenses.

I like this diagram that gives perspective of the size of Fresnel lenses.

Built in 1855, Point Pinos is the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the West Coast. Though the original whale oil flame has long since been replaced with an electric bulb, the Third Order Fresnel Lens still serves to amplify the electric bulb as the active navigational aid today. The lens was one of the first two Fresnel lenses shipped to California. The interior of the lighthouse has been restored to the period when a solo woman, Emily Fish, served as Light Keeper from 1893 to 1914.

Emily Fish, Light Keeper from 1893-1914, was known as the "Socialite Keeper" due to her love of entertaining.

Emily Fish, Light Keeper from 1893-1914, was known as the “Socialite Keeper” due to her love of entertaining.

The Lookout Room on the 2nd floor. Light Keepers would now be looking out over the Links at Spanish Bay golf course.

The Lookout Room on the 2nd floor. Light Keepers would now be looking out over the Links at Spanish Bay golf course.

Asilomar State Beach. Note regatta taking place along horizon with some seriously expensive sails.

Asilomar State Beach. Note regatta taking place along horizon with some seriously expensive sails.

Having “hopscotched” over certain areas in order to make my San Simeon Campground reservation, I stop along my return to visit places I missed. I time my visit to arrive in the beachside town of Cayucos for an early lunch at Ruddell’s Smokehouse, famous for their smoked albacore tuna and salmon tacos on a tip, “Get there when they open, because they WILL run out!” Add a cookie for dessert from the Brown Butter Cookie Company just up the street, and Cayucos is a worthy destination not to be missed.

Ruddel's Smokehouse in Cayacos, across the street from the beach.

Ruddell’s Smokehouse in Cayucos, across the street from the beach.

Seriously, don't miss this place!

Seriously, don’t miss this place!

Inside the Brown Butter Cookie Company.

Inside the Brown Butter Cookie Company.

Cayucos Beach

Cayucos Beach

I spend my last afternoon along Highway 1 exploring Morro Bay, “the Gibraltar of the Pacific.” My expectations before arriving in Morro Bay are that it will be a bit of a snooty seaside town, much like Carmel. But I find instead it has more of a “fisherman’s charm” with its active Embarcadero and beautiful beachside path to the iconic Morro Rock. Were it not for the unsightly power plant that dominates the view, Morro Bay would certainly be every bit the “Jewel” that Walt Disney’s “Dory” remembered it to be.

Iconic Morro Rock has earned Morro Bay the title of "Gibraltar of the Pacific."

Iconic Morro Rock has earned Morro Bay the title of “Gibraltar of the Pacific.”

The rock is chronicled as a navigational aid all the way back to the 1700's.

The rock is chronicled as a navigational aid all the way back to the 1700’s.

Boardwalk extends from Embarcadero to Morro Rock.

Boardwalk extends from Embarcadero to Morro Rock.

The Embarcadero has many quaint ocean-side restaurants serving fresh seafood.

The Embarcadero has many quaint ocean-side restaurants serving fresh seafood.

Fishing boats along the docks contribute to the ambiance.

Fishing boats along the docks contribute to the ambiance.

Giovanni's is famous for their Fish and Chips. For an additional charge, you can have them with Garlic Fries.

Giovanni’s is famous for their Fish and Chips. For an additional charge, you can have them with Garlic Fries.

BBQ'd Oysters, a Morro Bay specialty. Warning: Don't stand too close, they POP!!

BBQ’d Oysters, a Morro Bay specialty. Warning: Don’t stand too close, they POP!!

Bronzed Ford Truck Seat Memorial to honor local boat mechanic.

Bronzed Ford Truck Seat Memorial to honor local boat mechanic.

IMG_3433

Post Script: Please excuse what equates to “Instamatic” quality of photos, as Canon Repair has now had my camera for going on six weeks for their promised “7 to 10 day turnaround.”

13 thoughts on “Monterey to Morro Bay

  1. Camera may be different, but your eye for a great photo is still the best. I have been to some of that area, but not stopped to see all that was there. Hearst Castle was fun. We took one of the offered tours. Very impressive. I think it was built when there were no income taxes. I would like to have seen more, including the Cannery
    Row area. In Carmel, I saw my first outdoor escalator. Thanks for sharing, Suzanne, and fingers crossed for your repair and the camera, too.
    Pamelab in Houston

  2. More great pictures! It’s an area we seldom pass through, but for a smoked salmon taco … Hope the repairs are completed quickly and you get your ‘life’ back on the road.

  3. $157 for a Super 8. Hope it was a really nice one!
    We liked Monterey, too, but Cannery Row was much too touristy. Our favorite part was watching all the sea lions on the wharf.
    Somehow we missed Cayucos when we stayed at Morro Bay, but I wouldn’t have let Jim in that cookie shop anyway 😉

  4. At least the Super Eight provided the picture that calmed your speeding heart. You got to love a good lighthouse!
    Hears hoping the repairs are complete and you are back on the road!!

  5. When there’s no where else, they have you. We are just about to go to our $90 a night RV spot so that we can visit New York and it’s just like a car park. Who said camping is cheap!

  6. We visited Monterey a couple years ago. We were lucky that our friend is retired military and we were able to stay at the base RV park which allows a guest and has a beautiful golf course. Biking around the area was so much fun. I love all the sea lions and seals. Looks like you got in a lot of neat sites and some very good food:) Hope your repairs go well:)

  7. Love this part of the state, especially around Morro Bay. Great hiking all over there, and the town is very low key. Hope Winnie gets fixed soon!!!!

  8. I visited Monterrey when I was in California on my return home in 68. It has certainly gone upscale since then. thanks for the memories and I love BBQ’ed oysters, actually “ersters” of any type. You are certainly having an equipment fraught spring. Hope summer is more relaxing.

  9. I haven’t been to Monterey is years and when I am next there I will be heading to Ruddell’s Smokehouse in Caucus. Those smoked fish tacos look divine! As for the BBQ’d oysters, we had the most amazing melt-n-your-mouth oysters just outside of Point Reyes. Your photos are always so lovely Suzanne.

    BTW, I heard from Gayle a few days ago, so I am now anxiously awaiting a special post from you. 😉

  10. We were in Morro Bay just before Faria. We stayed for a week and visited many of the same places you did. Did you see the colony of sea otters that live on the south side of Morro Rock? Many had pups. We could have watched them for hours. The power plant is no longer operational, but they apparently won’t remove it because it is a landmark of sorts. Very controversial. While we were there, the eucalyptus trees directly in front of the plant were filled with great egrets, great blue herons, and night herons. It was nesting time. What a cacophony! Hope you are able to move on soon.

  11. What a lovely area, captured beautifully. It’s such a treat that you include food photos in your posts when describing a certain restaurant. May be gluttonous of me but my eyes always seem to linger on those particular pics a few extra seconds. 🙂

  12. Goodness, I can’t imagine those hotel rates. geez. We love our RV. When I had to go to the hospital in Eugene we decided to skip the MoHo and stay at a hotel. One night at more than 100 bucks for a Super 8 again, even in Eugene! Never again!! MoHo has made the trip every time since.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *