St. John’s – Jellybeans and Other Sweet Treats

Driving toward St John’s, Newfoundland’s capital city on the Avalon Peninsula, is a bit of culture shock.  It’s been three weeks since I’ve seen any semblance of “traffic,” so to roll up to the first stop light in so many days just seems odd, if not downright intimidating.  I’m eager to tour the city, but going from night after night of freedom in  remote boondocking spots to a crowded RV Park is tough to swallow, in spite of my desire to see the sights.

According to wikipedia, “Of major Canadian cities, St. John’s is the foggiest (124 days), windiest (15.1 mph) average speed), and cloudiest (1,497 hours of sunshine.) Precipitation is frequent and often heavy, falling year round.”   So I feel fortunate to have arrived on a day fit for exploration.

Quidi Vidi Brewery, home of Iceberg Beer, made with water from 15,000 year old icebergs.

Quidi Vidi Brewery, home of Iceberg Beer, made with water from 15,000 year old icebergs.

Quidi Vidi Village, pronounced "Kiddie Viddie."

Quidi Vidi Village, pronounced “Kiddie Viddie.”

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There’s lots to see in North America’s most easterly city.  But this time around, my “list” doesn’t only include places, it includes people!   For a month now, I’ve been shadowing Ed and Marti as they make this same loop a few weeks in front of me.  They have been kind enough to let me “cheat off their homework,” as they send text messages back on recommendations of their favorite places, which have quickly become my favorite places.  They have been very kind in their generous sharing of information, even more helpful considering I didn’t have much time to research once I finally made up my mind to head north.  I often wondered if our paths would eventually cross, so St. John’s, it is!   We’ll meet up at Pippy Park, St John’s 3,400 acre urban park, complete with campground.

In addition to sharing a couple of “fancy meals,” Ed, Marti and I pile into their View for a city tour.   This is the first time I’ve ever sat in the back of a View while someone else is driving.  It feels bizarre to be sitting on their couch in the coach, tipping like a see-saw as Ed navigates the San Francisco-like hills of St. John’s.  I enjoy the rare treat of not having to drive, but instead of looking out the window, I am watching the interior for movement, studying how our View coaches handle the road.

We visit St. John’s most iconic tourist attraction, Signal Hill, which offers beautiful vistas of the port city below, overlooking The Narrows,  entrance to St. John’s harbor, only 200 ft wide at it’s narrowest point.  A long standing military installation, Signal Hill has been the keystone where Newfoundland’s most active harbor has been protected and defended since the early 17th century.

View from atop Signal Hill.

View from atop Signal Hill.

Cabot Tower, built 1897 to commemorate 400th anniversary of John Cabot discovering the indigenous peoples inhabiting Newfoundland.

Cabot Tower, built 1897 to commemorate 400th anniversary of John Cabot discovering the indigenous peoples inhabiting Newfoundland.

Looking back over St. John's Harbour.

Looking back over St. John’s Harbour.

Fort Amherst, site if first lightstaion in Newfoundland, constructed in 1813 at the entrance to St. John's harbour.

Fort Amherst, site if first lightstation in Newfoundland, constructed in 1813 at the entrance to St. John’s harbour.

The Gothic stone building at the top, Cabot Tower, was constructed in 1897 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot’s discovery of Newfoundland.   It was also the site of the first transatlantic wireless transmission in 1901, when Marconi suspended an antenna attached to a telephone receiver 500 feet up by kite, resulting in the first transatlantic wireless signal, the letter ‘S’ in Morse code.

Another stop on my St. John’s “must do” list is the beautiful museum and cultural center, “The Rooms.”  Again to quote Wikipedia, “The building’s name, as well as its architecture, is a reference to the simple gable-roofed sheds called “fishing rooms” that were once so common at the waterline in Newfoundland fishing villages.”   The museum houses four floors full of artifacts of indigenous peoples, history of the fishing industry up to the cod collapse, examples of native flora and fauna species, audible exhibits of musical history and Newfie dialects.

The Rooms Museum and Cultural Center, built 2005.

The Rooms Museum and Cultural Center, built 2005.

inside the museum.

inside the museum.

Located high up on a hill, the museum offers several observation decks to look down on the town of St. John's.

Located high up on a hill, the museum offers several observation decks to look down on the town of St. John’s.

Snowmobile, circa 1965. Newfies call them "Ski-doos."

Snowmobile, circa 1965. Newfies call them “Ski-doos.”

Life vest from the Titanic.

Life vest from the Titanic.

Really creepy giant squid.

Really creepy giant squid.

But history aside,  I think my favorite thing about the city of St. John’s is “Jelly Bean Row.”  Although there is much marketing about the “row,” the vividly colored row houses are not confined to just one street.  They’re all over the place!   As I wander from block to block snapping photos, I run into many of the same travelers, one who captures the essence by saying, “It’s impossible not be happy looking at this block!”

I love often seen example of "art imitating life" where mailboxes are painted as Jellybean Row."

I love often seen example of “art imitating life” where mailboxes are painted as Jellybean Row.”

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I think parking should not be allowed in front of this beautiful mural in front of the jellybean houses!

I think parking should not be allowed in front of this beautiful mural in front of the jellybean houses!

A brief glimpse in between cars.

A brief glimpse in between cars.

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While Signal Hill is St. John’s most famous landmark in town, just 10 miles on the outskirts is its rural rival, Cape Spear, Canada’s oldest surviving lighthouse and North America’s easternmost point.  Built in 1836, the original wooden house with stone tower in the center is now a National Historic Site, filled with period furnishings, circa 1839.   In 1955, a more modern concrete tower was built just 200 yards away.  In 1912, the original equipment was replaced with a Fresnel lens, which now functions with a 500 w electrified lightbulb in the new tower.

Ascending the hill, you see the new Cape Spear lighthouse on the left (1955) and the old on the right (1836.)

Ascending the hill, you see the new Cape Spear lighthouse on the left (1955) and the old on the right (1836.)

This style of wooden house around stone tower is similar to Cape Bonavista Lighthouse.

This style of wooden house around stone tower is similar to Cape Bonavista Lighthouse.

The only difference in the two is Cape Bonavista's wooden structure is red and white striped, while Cape Spear is solid white.

The only difference in the two is Cape Bonavista’s wooden structure is red and white striped, while Cape Spear is solid white.

Can you see the whale spouts offshore?

Can you see the whale spouts offshore?

If you click to enlarge this photo, you will see a whale's tale to the right.

If you click to enlarge this photo, you will see a whale’s tale to the right.

Feeding frenzy.

Feeding frenzy.

Why just the top half of the 1955 lighthouse? Because some moronic fool spray-painted graffiti in the bottom half! I will not publicize their crime!

Why just the top half of the 1955 lighthouse? Because some moronic fool spray-painted graffiti in the bottom half! I will not publicize their crime!

Since this is a National Historic Site, I figure it’s a good idea to ask permission rather than forgiveness to park overnight in the parking lot.   Since I have arrived in the midst of pea soup fog and darkness is soon to follow, I ask if it would be okay if I stay overnight and wait for the fog to lift.  “Sure.  No problem.  People do it all the time. Sweet dreams!”

My boondocking neighbors for the night.

My boondocking neighbors for the night.

North America's most easterly point. Behind me is the entire population of North America, in front, Ireland.

Note fog bank rolling in toward North America’s most easterly point. Behind me is the entire population of North America, in front, Ireland.

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14 thoughts on “St. John’s – Jellybeans and Other Sweet Treats

  1. Point of fact: ALL Canadians call them “Ski Doos,” not only Newfies. Trademark of Bombardier and proudly made in Canada since 1959!

  2. We called them Ski-doos too, in western New York in the ’60’s anyway. Big help for farmers during the day. At night they went flying on trails through the woods. Could hear them all around and see the lights.

    Beautiful photos as always. You have a great eye.

  3. Ski Do was made by Bombardier which is a major manufacturing company these many years after their pioneering snow machine. I had been debating the inclusion of St Johns to my bucket list and now it is included.
    Great trip, I do not know why you crossed the continent to explore Newfie, but we are grateful. Keep on!!

  4. Did you see or tour any tall ships while there? I follow some on fb and there was a gathering in that area recently. One ship is called Picton Castle.

    • Hi, Teri. Yes, I did manage to catch the tall ships in St. John, NB, and Picton Castle was one of them! I haven’t even had a chance to get the photos off the camera yet, but will post a few pics when I do. Thanks for the question!

  5. Just fabulous Suzanne. Every time I read one of your posts I am green with envy that you are taking the trip I have had planned for several years. But yours is better than mine so I’m just going to do yours when/if I am ever able to. Where did you hang out to get the bike? Did you get my response to your email?? I’ve been having trouble with my account.

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