It is now lunchtime, so I make my way through the marina of Winchester Bay, where giant tall pines oppose giant sailboat masts across the coastal highway. I am searching for Double D Seafood in the marina, where David, the lighthouse host tells me I can sample some of the Triangle oysters. I stop in, but they tell me “on the half shell” can only be obtained by the Aquaculture Department, which is across the way.
Winchester Bay
Aguaculture processing plant for Triangle Oysters
I drive across the marina to the small seafood market, where I order a dozen on the half shell, to be eaten outside on their picnic tables (they have no inside seating.) They don’t sell wine by the glass, but if I buy a bottle, I can take the remainder to go. That sounds like a perfect enough reason to me! She recommends a Voignier from the local Abacela winery, which coincidentally is one of the wineries I toured during the rally.
Shucking my dozen half-shells…
I sit outside with the brisk breeze blowing off the water, which contrasts with the warmth of the sun on my face, just as the salty, briny oyster contrasts with the sweet tangy cocktail sauce on my tongue. I savor each one of the slippery morsels until before I know it, I am staring down a plate of empty shells, which leaves me wishing for more. If only they weren’t an outrageous $2 per oyster! I could sit here on this spot, feeling the sun, smelling the ocean, and tasting the wine for at least the entire bottle. But I have another lighthouse to see…
Oregon Dunes National Recreational Area
I continue on northbound up Highway 101, the Pacific Coastal Scenic By-way, which just gives up one beautiful spot after another. I’ve picked up a nice booklet titled “Highway 101 Mile-by-Mile Guide” which contains all the sights along the Scenic Byway listed by milepost. Sometimes, there is less than a mile between paragraphs, with so much to see.
Two booklets I highly recommend for anyone touring the Oregon coast.
sigh…
Cape Perpetua, 2,700 acre park in the Siuslaw National Forest looks like a “must stop” along the way. There is a nice Visitor’s Center , where I stop and purchase a small trail map detailing their 26 miles of trails. My “America the Beautiful” National Parks pass gets me in for free.
Tidal Pools path, Cape Perpetua, OR
The nice, enthusiastic volunteer tells me it is high tide, and I should head along the tidal path to see Thor’s Well and the Spout Hole, two attractions with lots of “geyser-like” activity at high tide.
We have a nice chat about RV full timing, but then she learns I am a solo traveler, so she starts to explain to me how I need to join a “group.” She pulls out a sheet of paper and starts writing down names where I can meet other solo travelers, meanwhile, my hiking map is beneath her notepad, being held hostage. I subtly try to slide my map out from under her note sheet, while she continues to tell me about happy hours and pot luck suppers. I keep smiling and nodding, and backing away slowly, saying “that’s nice, but not really for me. I like meeting friends on the road, but I travel solo by choice.” She says “You don’t want to be one of those women with eight cats and more books than you can ever read, do you??” Finally, we go back and forth for 15 minutes, when she brings up the dancing…“You would have SO much fun at the dancing!!” As so often happens when I feel I am not being heard, I behave inappropriately, yanking my map from under her notepad, as I say “Thank you…..BUT I WOULD RATHER HAVE A SHARP STICK IN THE EYE!!! (Please don’t try to “fix” me, as I am not broken!)
It is getting late in the day, but I manage a quick walk around the tidal path, about two miles in total. The trail is asphalt along the tidal pools, making it easily assessable.
“Spout Hole”
“Thor’s Well.” Note two people in lower left corner for size perspective.
The guidebook shows the nearest State Park to my next lighthouse, Heceta Head, to be Carl Washburne State Park. It is Saturday night, so I feel relief when I see the “Vacancy” sign from the highway. This is another beautifully wooded park with full hookups, but absolutely zero cell signal for either AT&T or Verizon.
Another beautiful Oregon State Park, Site #24. Not cheap at $28/nt with water and elec, but the view was worth it.
There is a three mile hike from the campground to Heceta Head Light, which is accessible only by footpath, either from the trail or from the beachside parking lot. RV parking is on the other side of beautiful Cape Creek Bridge, built in 1932 by Conde McCullough, the bridge engineer who designed most of Oregon’s coastal bridges along Highway 101.
Note beautiful McCullough Bridge on left side of photo.
View from the Lighthouse Path…
Looking up inside the original First Order Fresnel Lens
Heceta Lighthouse, built 1893, is perched 200 feet high up on a bluff overlooking the sea, which can be seen on approach from Highway 101. It is said to be not only the brightest light on the Oregon coast, but also the most photographed. It has a pristine First Order Fresnel Lens, the original which is a one of a kind in the US. All other Fresnel lenses were manufactured in France, but this first order lens is the lone exception for the US, having been manufactured in Birmingham, England. The lighthouse just underwent a $1.6 million dollar restoration, so it looks like new.
The beautiful Lighthouse keeper’s quarters have now been turned into a private Bed and Breakfast, where rooms go for around $300 per night, including a seven course breakfast. I pause at the gate to take a brochure, and ponder what it would be like to spend the night in room overlooking the light “with cozy down duvets and unique antique furnishings. Dream about a Lightkeeper’s Life!” the brochure beckons.
Heceta Head Light from approaching path
Former Light Keeper’s residence, now B&B
View from the front porch of the B&B
There was a time when I would have done this at any cost. But at almost $300 a night, I am content to return to my own “Bed and Breakfast” on wheels, and dream from the nearby State Park. There is no seven course gourmet breakfast, but I do make a mean Bloody Mary…
I never, never get tired of lighthouse pics. You’ve captured Heceta Head beautifully. Sorry to hear someone gave the “you’ll like this life better” speel…we get the same feedback every now and then even as a couple. I sometimes have people tell us we’re wasting our education and should get back to a “real” job like everyone else.
Errrmmm…no thank you…I do this by choice 🙂
Nina
We gave tours of Heceta Head Lighthouse years ago and stayed in Carl Washburne. We can still remember a great deal of the facts we had to learn! It’s a beautiful place, and we had a lot of fun doing the tours. I had to laugh at the “map yank”–what, no dancing? I would have run the other way too.
Man are you ever in your element now! That shot of Heceta Head peeking out from the footpath just seems to incorporate all your loves in one shot— the sea, lighthouses, hiking, forests. wow! But seriously, comparing this to a day spent line-dancing and pot-lucking? You really are missing out!!! (haha!).
Boy are you in my element now. Those gorgeous coastal shots and light houses!! Wonder if this one takes “volunteers”? I know many of Oregon’s light houses do. Free site, just do some tours.
LOVE your story about feeling not heard. I have the same problem when enough is enough and I just lose it. Why do people feel they have to fix others? I’m not broken either and I like my solitude just fine thank you. In fact as part of a couple currently, I don’t have nearly enough.
Thanks for the book recommendations. I really appreciate that. I AM coming to Oregon next summer. I AM!
Did you check out the campground at Cape P.?..I usually keep this to myself, but site #29 has electricity, along with the site waaay in the back. You have to ask for it, but with a broken old person pass it’s not much more. I know there is no internet in the canyon, but it is nice if the weather is bad 4 blocks away. You are in a totally different climate back there, and the trail leads out to the beach.
Upriverdavid
That’s funny … the hosts always tell me to move to the back and find a more quiet and secluded spot, don’t get too near the women, and keep away from children if you enter the pool area ….. Hey, is it me or my 30 year old rig? A guy could get a complex 😉
And you know I’m the Princess and the Pea when it comes to beds. If the bed is three figures, I can’t quite sleep at night!
How many more lighthouses do you think there are along the way? I do love them as well. How many can you actually tour or what percentage I wonder? I remember Port Isabel, Texas as a child and how much we both were fascinated with the lighthouse there.
We really liked Cape Perpetua, although on the day we visited it was cold, foggy and windy.
By the way, we can offer up two cats to help you get started, and we can see square dancing in your future;-)
Wow, where to start? A dozen oysters on the half shell eaten at a picnic table seaside accompanied with a bottle of good white. Followed by a visit to just about the most beautifully sited light house I have ever seen.
My envy knows no bounds.
Deede only envies the light house.
Great prose with those pictures.
sigh 😉
I am also a solo traveler and I find that I meet a lot more people being solo than I do if I’m with someone. It’s interesting how many want to fill up my time as if I’m stranded; I don’t think it occurs to most that being solo is a choice and not a matter of chance circumstance. I believe they are just trying to be helpful but I’m considering a life sized cardboard cut out for the passenger seat : )
Thanks for the book suggestions – I’ll never have enough books!
Nina — We are aligned in our thinking, not only about lighthouses, but about life!
Tina — I love that you volunteered at Heceta Head Light! I hope that is in my future one day too!
Lynne — Yes, I have reached that “over-stimulation” point more times in Oregon than ever before! So many loves all in one place!
Sherry — Yes, there were many volunteers on site, as it is a busy lighthouse. I know just the post for you! Standing beside the telescope, explaining to visitors about the nesting habits of the thousands of “Common Murres” on the rocks below!
UpriverDavid — I didn’t get to spend as much time in Cape Perpetua as I would like. I would definitely like to return one day, so thanks for the tip on the site in back!
Donald — I have 2 more to see along the Oregon coast, and who knows how many in Washington. So far, I have been able to go inside all but one. And yes, I too blame Port Is!
J&G — Elvis and Sophie might have something to say about that. The Winnie would be slummin’ it after their nice digs! (Though better not tell them it has been called the “Carnivore Cafe’ before. 😉
Allen — Thanks for the always nice words. Yes, that lighthouse was so picturesque it was hard to believe it was real!
Carolyn — I am glad you are still with me…
swade — I laughed out loud about the cardboard cut-out! YES! How many times a day do I get addressed in the plural…”How many nights are you guys staying?” Or in the south, “Where are ya’ll from?” But I agree, it is the best of both worlds. Company when you need it, but plenty of solitude, simply by choice. It’s a great life, eh? Thanks for the comment.
Try as I may I can only count 11 oysters on that platter – silly but I noticed it anyway – love the photos of the,light houses.
Or maybe only 10 oysters on the half shell as there seems to be one empty shell 🙂
Okay, Sandy, you got my curiosity up…I didn’t want to have to drive back south to claim my 12th oyster! haha!! So I posted another picture of the empties. If you look under the smaller shell, and under the cocktail sauce, you will see all 12. Maybe I was eating one while I was taking the other photo. LOL!
Yea, 12 empty shells – wanted to be sure you had a gospel measure. Thanks for the second picture. 🙂