As much as I enjoy hiking solo, you would also think I would enjoy being out front during some of the group hikes. After all, how does the saying go? “Unless you are the lead dog, the scenery never changes?” But instead, I always gravitate toward the rear. This has not only to do with still struggling to reach the same fitness level as my fellow hikers, but I often times feel leery to step out front and lead because of my lack of confidence in my navigation skills. I have reason enough to doubt myself…
Tripod Rock, Exhibit 1
Tripod Rock, Exhibit 2
It is the summer of 1996, and I am on my third trip down to the Florida aquifer to dive in the miles of underground water-filled labyrinth of a cave system that is the source for most of Florida’s fresh water. I have completed my NSSCDS certification (National Speleological Society – Cave Diving Section) as a certified Cave Diver, which is about the most rigorous training I have ever undergone in my life! Despite the fact that I am very close friends with my dive instructor, he cut me no slack. I now have about 100 cave dives under my belt, considered to be a fairly experienced cave diver.
I am on this trip with a group – two instructors, and two other experienced cave divers, one of which is an instructor in training. We have all been diving together on numerous dives, and are comfortable with each others skill level, dive the same equipment for redundancy, and are in synch with our underwater communications.
The two instructors are teaching a class today, so it will be Barney (instructor in training) JD (least experienced of the three,) and yours truly on a pleasure dive.
There are many hard and fast rules in the sport of cave diving, where your ability to problem-solve underwater is vital, otherwise it can mean certain death. Everything is redundant in threes – three lights, three reels, and we dive the “rule of thirds.” A third of your air used in, a third out, and a third saved for emergencies. Half a mile underground, you cannot bolt to the surface for help.
The first of these rules is “Always run a continuous guideline to the cave opening.” But today, we are diving Cow Spring. It is one of the more pristine caves in the area, and considered “advanced.” For this reason, there is no guideline to the surface to discourage the less experienced from entering. Instead, the continuous guideline begins 100 feet inside the cave passage, not visible from the cave opening. This is the only exception to the rule I have ever seen. The premise is that the divers should carry a “jump reel” and tie off to the main line, running a jump line to temporarily connect the cave entrance/exit to the permanent line. We discuss this before the dive, and agree that since we can see the ambient light of the exit from the end of the permanent line, we will not run the jump reel. (An arrogant violation of Rule #1.)
When you dive with more than two divers into a cave system, the least experienced diver, in this case, JD, takes the middle position. The most experienced, Barney, will lead the dive. As the second most experienced diver, I will take the rear position. When it is time to turn the dive, everyone just does an “about face” to avoid disturbing the cake-flour like silt on the floor of the cave, and the position on the line is reversed. I will be leading the dive out of the cave, something I have done dozens of times. Just never in Cow Spring.
The dive has gone very well, and we have reached our turning point. The first person to reach a third of their air turns the dive, and JD has signaled time to turn. I am now in the lead, and we are nearing the exit.
We reach the point where the permanent line ends, and I start the unguided exit. There is a small alcove right near the mouth of the cave. A “pocket” in the rock wall, if you will. Without a guideline, I stray too far off course toward this alcove, and the others follow me. I quickly realize that I am off course within a couple of fin strokes. I reverse my position and signal to turn around by circling my upright index finger. But it is too late. JD and Barney have followed me into the small alcove. At this point, JD begins to panic, and in trying to turn around, he thrashes about and silts up the entire alcove. Within 3 seconds, we have gone from gin-clear water to being submersed in whole milk. I can’t even see my gauges, let alone the other two divers.
At this point, I hear my breath quicken. My throat tightens, as I try to read my gauge. I can now hear my heart pounding in my ears. If we can just get calm and not panic, we have enough air to wait for 5 minutes until the silt clears. But JD begins thrashing about, and he has wedged himself between me and the exit. I am trapped, and cannot even communicate with either he or Barney. As I strain to steady my rapid, raspy, shallow breathing, I have that thought flash through my head…”So this is how it ends, huh? I always wondered…I am so sorry, Mom!”
Eventually, Barney finds the exit and is able to signal with his light through the milky white silt-out for JD to follow toward the opening. I am then able to leave the small alcove and follow the light to the opening. We exit the cave and drop our regulators from our mouths while removing our masks. No one says anything for a good 5 minutes after we exit the water. We are all too scared shitless to speak.
Once we get back to the hotel and my dear friend Fitz, my instructor hears what has happened, I get the ass-chewing of a lifetime. I can still see his red face as he yells at me. “Never. NEVER! Break the rules! And NEVER lead others into uncertainty!”
I learned a lot of lessons on this dive. Rules in a cave where one mistake can mean certain death are NEVER to be broken, no matter what the experience level. Never lose sight of the permanent line. Turn around and look behind you frequently as the cave looks much different going the opposite direction. And first and foremost? “Never lead others into uncertainty.”
Not only did I come close to sealing my own fate that day, I also endangered the lives of two loving friends, simply by leading myself…and others…into uncertainty.
With “the gang’s” impending departure date looming on the calendar, I will soon once again be a solo act. Therefore I have decided it is time to purchase a hand-held GPS…Any recommendations?
Trail to Tripod Rocks, Zion National Park
Mark’s podium
Getting into Postcard Position
White sandstone looks like we are skiing down snow!
Heard frequently along the trail, “Bobbie!? My shoe’s untied!”
What goes down, must go back up!
Bobbie and Peterman…waiting for the rock to fall.
I think she looks like Katharine from “The English Patient” here.
Who’s King of the Hill now, boyz?
I carried an eTrex for years because it is small and light but almost never used it and I’m not sure I could find it now. I MUCH prefer a good map and compass. BJ uses a Garmin Rino which is especially nice if you have others with the same unit like they do in the SAR group.
Oh man! That cave thing had me freaking out just reading it!!
I’ve done a lot of solo hiking, most of it with only map and compass, and I still carry map and compass, but I have to say that since I started carrying a GPS last year I’m more comfortable out there on the trail and have the confidence to do more exploring off-trail than ever before.
I’ve only used the one so don’t have anything to compare with, but my little electronic trail buddy is the Earthmate PN-60. One of the key selling points for me is that it pairs up with the Delorme Topo North America 10 & USB GPS that I use on my laptop as both my planning and driving tool.
Have I told you have very cool it is to go with you on your hikes ? no? well? let me tell you .. I enjoy the hell of out ‘em because there is no way that I will ever experience these sights first hand. sad … but true.
Haven’t heard that lead dog todo in a long time … still funny.
You’re cave diving experience gives me the shudders … truly…
I wish you wouldn’t go on hikes where you’ll need a GPS by yourself ~ I’m not your Mother but … !
oh good grief! that’s the second grammatical error within an hour I’ve made … thank goodness a new year’s coming up and I can start all over again … mistake free..
your cave diving …. need to proof m’stuff!
I used the basic Garmin Etrex in conjunction with a map for years and no problems. The best bit was downloading your routes after a ride / walk and reviewing and keeping them. Whilst the more expensives Garmins have maps its sometimes handy to have an actual map to hand as it gives a better perspective of where you are and the terrain you have to cross to get to your destination. Learning to use a compass and take bearings is invaluable so always carry a compass just as a back up.
I am not a fan of water, could never be a diver but a diver going into an underwater cave!!!–your story had my heart pounding and I wasn’t even there!!
My goodness, you have done a multitude of amazing things in your life! I am so glad you are retired now and writing more…I love your writing! Really glad you made it out of that cave!
Peterman needs to double knot his laces! First, though, he needs to get well…
Love this hike! John and I tried to find those tripod rocks a few weeks ago when we were in Hurricane. We found that huge slickrock area (which I loved) and hiked to the bottom and all around looking for those darn rocks! Jim said after your hike, that we didn’t go quite far enough…darn! So close but yet so far! I will find those darn tripod rocks yet!
My heart was in my throat as I read your diving account. I can’t imagine being caught in a small space underwater. So very glad you made it out safely.
I’m not sure I agree with you about Katherine from The English Patient, but thanks for the compliment.
Although I am not claustrophobic, your cave dive story gave me a panic attack just reading about it. Now we know why you don’t hike out in front!
Jim says just buy the Trimble Outdoors Navigator GPS app for your iPhone, and get a portable battery pack for those really long hikes.
I’m with John. Your sense of terrain and ability to be self-reliant in the outback will be much improved by using map and compass instead of a GPS. In addition, you will only have a GPS until you drop it. A topo map and a good Suunto compass will be unphased by bouncing off granite or clattering down 20′ of slickrock. You’ll have a proper map to do trip planning with anyway, yes?
A great story and lesson about how one little mistake can cost one their life, not to mention the life of a “buddy.” Whether diving, climbing, or mountain biking…what ever it is that you do…doing it solo requires extra precautions because you are your only hope should something go wrong….a wrong turn like in the cave, or on the trail, or going down someplace you can’t get back up, going too far such that it gets dark before you can get back to the car. Carry matches, a firestarter block, a headlamp, space blankets, rain gear, cell phone and a recharge battery pack, GPS, and extra food and water (you need a bigger pack, Grasshopper)…send an email or tell someone where you are going and set a time for communication such that if they don’t hear from you they can call for help, know where you were going…etc, etc.. Then go with confidence and know that you are prepared as best you can be. Hiking alone can be a safe and fun adventure.
Your lead photo sure captures the delicate balance of that tripod rock… Lovely!!!
Box Canyon Mark…winding down in Zion where the forecasted temperature for Thanksgiving day is for it to be 70 degrees. I hope we are dining together, outside, in the sun…The Last Supper, Oh Lord 🙁
Even though I knew the ending my heart was still pounding. What a scary tale.
Diving at all would freak me out. Diving in a cave would cause me to experience cardiac arrest. I have to block out the fact that I’m underground in places like Carlsbad Caverns. I’m definitely more comfortable on the surface of the earth.
I could consider hiking…… But watching & reading about you doing it is still quite entertaining!
Ditto Box Canyon Mark. Always be safe.
http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=101
These formerly were $300., so it looks like they have come down in price. Might be worth carrying one when you are hiking alone. The do NOT depend on cell phone coverage to operate. We want you around to tell us LOTS more stories!!!
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Thanks to everyone for the great suggestions on GPS options! I will review them all and let you know what I end up purchasing. I am also considering one of the “Find Me” locators as some suggested, as I think this would offer great peace of mind to not only me but my loved ones.
And yes, a map and a compass, but the challenge here is “How do I find my way, when I don’t know where I am?” I had this same quandary when sailing and diving. Without the gift of “Dead Reckoning,” how to pinpoint a present location?
I will give it all careful thought. But just to put things in perspective, I am not going out to bushwhack a trail any time soon. Instead, I am one who gets lost in the Zion NP Visitor Center Parking Lot! LOL! So “risk is relative.”
Thanks again for the great ideas and for your support in following the blog!
Suzanne