Havasupai — The Falls

As soon as I get through the painfully slow process of check-in at the Supai Lodge and get to my room, I quickly dump out the contents of my backpack, change into my swimsuit and Keens, and take off for the falls.  It is now after 1:00pm, and my time for sun is fleeting between these high canyon walls.  I have been told the water is 72 degrees year round, but the air is cool, so I know my only hope for a swim is to get there before the afternoon shade.

Crossing Havasu Creek

Crossing Havasu Creek

Check out the interesting formations on the walls of this canyon...

Check out the interesting formations on the walls of this canyon…

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Havasu Creek starts out upstream, flowing downward as a tributary to the Colorado River.  It is made up of snow melt, flow from a natural spring, and a whole lot of calcium carbonate, which contributes to the travertine terraces along the way.  The minerals are what give the creek the clear, swimming pool blue color.    Even the name itself, Havasupai, means “people of the blue-green water.”   I am a sucker for water in general, but make it a clear blue, spring-fed source, and I have to get in there!

First glimpse of Lower Dakota Falls

First glimpse of Lower Dakota Falls

 If you look in the distance at the top of the photo, you will see "Upper" Dakota Falls.


If you look in the distance at the top of the photo, you will see “Upper” Dakota Falls.

A close-up, and you can more clearly see the two falls, Upper and Lower.

A close-up, and you can more clearly see the two falls, Upper and Lower.

The “road” through the village follows along the creek on the way to the first of the falls, Dakota.  A flood back in 2008 rearranged the flow of the river, dividing what was once the larger Dakota Falls into two smaller falls, now called “Upper” and “Lower” Dakota Falls.

About a mile and a quarter down the road, the path starts to drop alongside a canyon, and I get my first look at Upper and Lower Dakota.  It is just ridiculous!  The green moss lining the travertine pools with the aquamarine water running through looks like some food-color dyed ride at Disneyland!   I spot what looks like the perfect swimming hole below, but it is a good distance down to the bottom of the canyon.  I want to move on to Havasu Falls, the most popular of the falls for some photos before I lose any more sunlight, so I continue on.

Upper Dakota Falls

Upper Dakota Falls

Lower Dakota Falls, and what he agrees to be the perfect swimming hole!

Lower Dakota Falls, and what he agrees to be the perfect swimming hole!

Soon, I see signs overhead warning of “Steep Drop Off.  Stay on Trail.  Keep Away.  Unstable Ground” and I know I am coming to the edge of the canyon where Havasu Creek makes its leap.   I walk out as far as the trail will allow, and get my first glimpse of my reason for being here….and it is worth all 39,846 steps!  Wow, just wow!

First look at Havasu Falls from trail overlook.

First look at Havasu Falls from trail overlook.

It looks like a resort swimming pool below!

It looks like a resort swimming pool below!

IMG_H1260I hurry down to the bottom of the falls, as shadows are already moving across the pools below.   But I am determined, so I strip down to my swimmer, hand my camera to a nice woman on the riverbank who volunteers to be my photographer, and pose for the requisite photos before I jump in…well, “inch” in is more like it.  Somehow, 72 degrees feels a lot colder than it sounds.  I finally manage to work my way up to shoulder level.   The crowd is disappearing faster than the sun, so I try to enjoy a little relaxation and contemplation.  But I am antsy.  I still want to explore the campground, and I have another mile to go to reach Mooney Falls, and three miles back up to the Lodge to hike before dark.  So I move on.

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Yes, that 72 degree spray is COLD on my back!

Proof!

Proof!

See well disguised picnic table near the cave.  What a place for a picnic, huh?

See well disguised picnic table near the cave. What a place for a picnic, huh?

These women are selling zippered bags...among other things.  ;-)

These woman are selling zippered bags…among other things. 😉

Note woman riding a giant inflatable stingray over the falls.

Note woman riding a giant inflatable stingray over the falls.

When I see the campground, I regret not having the opportunity to stay here, as the campsites are positioned right alongside the river.   I stand and listen, imagining what it would be like to sleep in my tent to the sound of the creek nearby.   There are lots of Cottonwood trees along the bank, ergo lots of shade hammocks swinging from the low stretching boughs.   The vibe seems very low key.  No electricity so no boom boxes or sports blaring from neighboring campsites, and the “No Fires” rule keeps the air clean and clear.  When people call my Winnie a “camper,” I always clarify that I live in a motor home, and I “camp” in a tent.   So as a lover of tent camping, this looks like my kinda place!

Entrance to the campground.

Entrance to the campground.

Most sites are right on the aquamarine river.

Most sites are right on the aquamarine river.

This bridge is optional, only if you want to camp on the other side of the river.  Separates the men from the boys.  The boys all cross.  ;-)

This bridge is optional, only if you want to camp on the other side of the river. Separates the men from the boys. The boys all cross. 😉

As I continue on down the path toward Mooney Falls, I run into three young women that I have seen several times along my journey.  I ask, “Did you guys go to Mooney?  How was it?”   (Having seen photos that tell me it is the prettiest of the three falls, beyond that, I have done no research.) They reply, “Beautiful…just beautiful! But also….well….(glancing sideways at each other,)…in a word, STARTLING!  You follow this trail on down, and then it just…Ends!  On a cliff!   And you must use chains, ropes and ladders to get you down.  But don’t let that scare you off!  It is so worth it!” (looks down at my shoes) “You have good footwear.  You’ll do just fine!”  (This coming from a twenty year old.)

First glimpse of Mooney Falls, 200 ft.

First glimpse of Mooney Falls, 200 ft.

Another cavern picnic site.

Another cavern picnic site.

I come to the edge of the cliff, and peer over.  Mooney Falls is just as spectacular as the giant poster back on the wall in the Supai Village Café promised.  But I want down THERE!  How hard can a few chains and ladders be after Angel’s Landing, right?  I soon find out…

I encounter a young woman popping out of a hole, who explains that I must first navigate two narrow caves dug by miners before I can go any further.  “…but you should totally do it!  My aunt just did it, and she is 54!! But…you’re not alone, are you?”

The first of two caves you must crawl through to reach the base of Mooney Falls.

The first of two caves you must crawl through to reach the base of Mooney Falls.

View of the falls from inside the cave.

View of the falls from inside the cave.

The caves are no problem for me, as I know the ladders won’t be either.  The problem is the 10 feet or so in between, where you must use footholds on the vertical rocks while holding on to the chains.  This would not be near as challenging were it not for the spray from the falls that keeps the entire face wet and muddy.

Halfway down, I realize I really have no business doing this kind of climb after eleven miles of hiking and three more to go.  But I just can’t conceive of coming this far and turning back without reaching the bottom.  So I try to recall my skills learned from my token rock climbing course back in the late 90’s by leaning in to the mountain, not moving one foot until the other is secure, and I let go of all hope of avoiding getting covered in mud!  Once I reach the three ladders, it is not the steps that are difficult, but the transition in between.  Finally, my knees are shaking with sweet relief to reach the bottom rung of the third ladder!

Platform overlooking falls before the vertical part begins.

Platform overlooking falls before the vertical part begins.

Just take one step at a time and don't over-think it...coming back up will be easier!

Just take one step at a time and don’t over-think it…coming back up will be easier!

The base of the falls is idyllic for swimming, and I can see that the path goes on and on.  If I only had an extra day, I would love to continue exploring the three miles down to Beaver Falls and on to the Colorado River.  Like an addiction, when is it ever enough?IMG_M1291

Three tiers of ladders.

Three tiers of ladders.

But the other aspect that makes Mooney Falls so blissful is that there are no people here!  But it’s getting late.   I don’t want to get caught at the bottom of that climb out, with no one behind me.  So I leave when I see the last remaining couple headed for the ladder…

This is the worst part...holding on to moving chains while trying to climb the muddy vertical wall.

This is the worst part…holding on to moving chains while trying to climb the muddy vertical wall.

IMG_M1292Now three miles away from the Lodge, I have to keep up the pace, as I have brought nothing but a Clif Bar for dinner.  (Translates to: “Nothing to feed the Diet Coke addiction.”)   I know there is one market in town that is open until 7:00pm, so I have to hurry.   I make it back to the Lodge by 6:40pm, but I have forgotten how far on the other side of town the market is….I have another half mile to go!   I make it just in time, but this adds another mile to my fourteen mile day.

Soak your feet and have a picnic at the same time!

Soak your feet and have a picnic at the same time!

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By the time I get back to the lodge, my feet hurt so badly I can barely walk.  How do thru-hikers on the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Coast Trail stand it?  A fifteen mile day is a short day to them!

I decide to soak in the tub while feasting on my dinner of champions, a $6 bag of Cheetos and a $3 Diet Coke.  But alas the “lodge” has no bathtub stopper.   I have to get creative, but the hot water on my aching feet it is worth it.  I am asleep by 8:30pm!IMG_M1290

Since I don’t have a drive back to Phoenix like most of those hiking out at the crack of dawn, I take a nice leisurely pace packing up, as I only have eight miles to go today…although that is all “up.”   I have “The Breakfast Special” from the café; two eggs, bacon, hash browns and toast.   Then I walk over to the helipad to say goodbye and exchange emails with Melanie and Bridget, who are taking the helicopter out of the canyon.  I tell them to keep a look out, I will wave…

The hike back is serene, with the cool canyon air and rhythmic, almost hypnotic crunch of my measured pace on the gravel in the wash beneath my boots.  I walk almost the entire length of the canyon without seeing any other hikers.  By noon, I start to meet the oncoming traffic hiking in, and I laugh at how the tables are turned, as they all look so bright and shiny coming down the trail.

As I turn the dog-leg left and begin the hardest part of the climb, the pain from the blister on my toe is unbearable.  It figures, I hike all over Utah, Nevada, and Arizona for six months without a blister, and then I get one while walking the streets of Manhattan wearing “dress socks” with my hiking boots!  I stop in the shade for a lunch break, and pull out my trusty duct tape to tape up my toe before I begin the long trek up the switchbacks.

It takes me only half an hour longer to go up than it did going down, so I am pleased with my speed, but reluctant to leave behind such a beautiful place.  I hiked further, spent more, and had fewer creature comforts on this overnight hike than any before.  Was it worth it?

Supai Indian Reservation Permit — $35
Overnight at the Lodge — $145
Swimming in “liquid turquoise??” — PRICELESS!

Havasu Falls -- Priceless!

Havasu Falls — Priceless!

27 thoughts on “Havasupai — The Falls

  1. Suzanne,

    I love, love, LOVE your posts about this hike! I think I’m just going to share your blog with anyone that asks how it went because you describe it so vividly. It was such a pleasure to meet you and I hope that we can cross paths again. Melanie and I have been talking about your blog and travels not stop. Can I just BE you when I grow up? 🙂 Thank you for taking the time to write such a wonderful blog and for including us!

    • Oh, thanks, Bridget! What a nice comment! I enjoyed meeting you and Melanie too. Just wish we had more time, because I know we would have had l lot of laughs! Please do share the blog. I love new readers. 😉 Melanie shared some unbelievable photos of your helicopter ride! So glad you guys had a good trip back.

  2. How cool those veils of vermillion stalagmites… like bloody waves frozen in time. I’m curious (Dr. Hindsight, here) why you didn’t book one or two more nights, given the distance and all the treasures to explore? I assume you’d be up for going back, maybe serving as our guide 🙂
    Box Canyon Mark

    • BC Mark — Dr. Hindsight is accurate, in that I could have enjoyed an entire week down there. But at $145 a night (same price for a single as it is for four people!) on top of the $20 a night to dry camp the Winnie, it was a bit “steep.” (“veils of vermillion”…..now why didn’t I think of that??)

  3. Wow….just wow. Don’t know where to begin…those turquoise waters, that crazy downhill scramble, the fact that you hiked 15 miles. OMG. So utterly impressed by it all!
    Nina

  4. Awesome, Terrifying, Exhausting and Gorgeous all rolled into one. This hike appears to be the perfect example of why to not wait to late in life to live your dreams. How much was the camping near the falls? I would definitely need to break the hike into smaller sections with lots of rest in between. Of course there is always the helicopter out as an option…and the price of that view filled ride????

  5. Great details of the hike and of the rewards. I was sad to learn that the locals are so disengaged from the visitors, but can’t say that I blame them. I did not know hiking in was possible, thought it was only by helicopter. Maybe someday, like you I’ve drooled over every picture I’ve seen of this hidden gem. The plight of the Native Americans in our country frustrates and saddens me, it’s embarrassing how our forefathers robbed them of their land, their culture and their dignity.

  6. 1. You are full blown crazy! 2. I want to be you.

    3. Thanks for sharing all this with us. I know lots of people want to take this hike, but will never have the chance. Then there are people like me who would never even consider this hike, but we still love hearing about it and seeing all the perfect photos. Your narrative is so good, I felt like I was seeing it all and feeling it all. I was ready to pull out the moleskin, then was surprised by duct tape. Wow. 🙂

  7. I agree with Barbara, you are full blown crazy! But also full blown impressive. I am so jealous of that entire experience. I do most of my traveling as a solo and enjoy it but those last few obstacles you faced to get to the bottom of the falls may have stopped me. I would have been paralyzed by the “what if” thoughts running through my head. Congrats on this experience. I so enjoyed sharing it with you. Looking forward to whatever is next.

  8. This was so amazing and soooo crazy that you did that last part alone!! Thank goodness you had sense to follow the last group out. Glad that you made that insane climb down:)

    The falls are beautiful but that turquoise water is what I would hike down to see. There aren’t words to describe how gorgeous all that water is!! Wow!! Your photos are beautiful:) I loved following you on this journey:)

  9. We have always wanted to do this trip/hike. Love, love, love your pictures and description. Just stunning! Thank you for sharing. Gonna make this happen sooner rather than later.

  10. I too have been drooling over this place since the first time I saw a photo of the falls. I think your Disney comparison is right-on as it is truly unbelievable! Your narrative had me there with you although me feet felt much better I’m sure 🙂 Those picnic bench locations are wonderful – caves and waterfalls – someone had fun with those! The helicopter out sounds like the me-option so I’ll have to start saving my quarters.

  11. Everyone beat me to the words I wanted to say. Full blown crazy, impressive, wonder woman, magnificent inspiration…15 miles?!:! chains on muddy stone??? you gotta be kidding. I thought Angel’s Landing was the big one, but maybe this one is even more so. Turquoise water?? even more amazing. Turquoise water is my addiction…anywhere I can find it, and put it in the middle of the other addiction red rocks…well…just beyond amazing. Suzanne, you are totally incredible is so many ways.

  12. What to say that hasn’t already been expressed. Yes this is right up there with the top things on your bucket list. You my friend are as amazing as the falls. Such strength, physical, emotional and intellectual.

  13. I don’t think you are crazy, I just think you are ” ALIVE” You are living life to the best that you are capable of and you have the courage to stretch yourself which results in more “LIFE”. You remind me that I should stretch more. Love reading your stuff.

  14. Wow, that hike is so far from our ability to hike, but your description and pictures brought it all to us. I felt as though we were right with you as you climbed down to that last falls. Oh to be fifty years younger.
    Thanks for sharing this fantastic adventure.
    Allen and Deede

  15. I am in awe of your long day of hiking. The Havasu pools look so different from my years ago visit. Sure glad to see more ladders added to the Mooney descent as there was a gap with only rebar hand holds for some of those slippery rock steps. The campground was divine, with no tent, except for some pushy wind one night. Glad you got to enjoy the magic of the blue-green waters. Grand Canyon rim to rim next?

  16. You made it…yay!!! Wasn’t it just breathtaking? Reading this post was like taking this grand adventure all over again. Stunning photos Suzanne. Amazing job during this on your own.

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