Buckskin Gulch is known as “The Longest Slot Canyon in the World!” (Allegedly.) Yes, I have fallen prey to “destination marketing” once again. But it’s not just about “the longest, the tallest, the most dangerous.” No, you see I am a sucker for a slot canyon of any length. In fact, it’s my absolute favorite place to hike. I can never seem to get enough, as the slot canyons always come to an end way too soon.
Seeing the narrowing walls up ahead of me slowly begin to close in makes my pulse quicken. It feels both forbidding and enticing at the same time, like I am peeking into the mysterious, sinuous, blood-rich bowels of Mother Earth. So you can imagine the lure that Buckskin Gulch, “The Longest Slot Canyon…” has held for me ever since I visited this area to hike the Wave back in 2012.
Entering the slot section of Wire Pass trail.
I’ve hit up just about every hiker I know trying to talk someone into hiking “the gulch” with me. It’s a challenging, unpredictable hike with few options for self-rescue and no escape hatch. Not exactly a place I want to walk for miles alone. So for the past two years now, I have been lobbying. I always manage to gin up a certain level of interest until we reach the point where they ask, “I’ve heard there’s WATER in there! Do I have to get my feet wet?” The minute my willing suspects learn that there are pools…often long, waist deep, cold, and even at times “stagnant” pools, they can no longer hear me. It seems nothing puts the wet blanket on the interest level of a hike faster than the promise of wet feet!
Well, I decide early on that this is going to be the year, if I have to don a PFD and swim through it! Ergo my reason for reconnaissance down the 8 mile road to the Wire Pass trail head. I will do all the research I can to prepare, then gear up to go it alone!
I come back from my hike with Gaelyn and Bill to see another rig parked in my boondocking area. It’s a familiar looking Lazy Daze. Turns out it’s Chris whom I met amongst the Lazy Daze gang last February in Mittry Lake, later joining us in Ouray. We say our hellos, and I tell him of my plan to hike Buckskin Gulch the next morning. He replies, “Sounds great. I think I’ll join you if that’s okay.” “You WILL???” I try to hide my exuberance as I break the news, “But you will get wet. I am not sure how much, but I’m not turning back if I have to swim!”
I find the logistics of this hike to be a bit confusing. The trail head so named “Buckskin Gulch” leads to the upper section which is beautiful, but has no slot canyon. The lower more dramatic section of the slot is actually reached from the hike named “Wire Pass,” which is also the trail head name of the hike to the Wave. Finally, after quizzing poor Bill and Gaelyn to death, I finally figure out that I want the lower section, accessed off Wire Pass trail.
Note massive log jam above Chris, accumulated in flash floods.
It’s another blue sky morning with no mention of humidity in the forecast, let alone flash floods. So we load our gear into the Tracker and head down the 8-mile obstacle course of Houserock Valley Road. It’s a pretty miserable ride with washboard ribs and washed out ruts, and it takes us 30 minutes just to go 8 miles. But Chris is a good sport, and I only see him reaching for the grab bar a few times. 😉
We reach the Wire Pass Trailhead filled with quite a few cars, most bound for The Wave. Hiking in the Paria Canyon requires a permit which can be purchased at the trail head for $6 per person. We are on the Wire Pass trail for about a mile, when the red rocks lining the wash start to get taller and begin closing in, leading us into the slot canyon. I get so excited I can hardly contain myself, and try to explain to Chris, “This is a really big deal to me!” But we have not gone much more than a quarter mile when my heart sinks. There is a choke stone up ahead with an 8 foot drop. Had I been alone, this would be my turning point. “Choked out” before I ever reached the Buckskin!
But Chris says “I think we can make it….well, I know I can make it…And I am pretty sure you can too.” 😉 I reply “Well, I know I can make it down. But I don’t see how in the hell I can make it back up! Did you happen to bring any rope??” There are lots of fresh footprints at the bottom of the drop indicating others have recently gone before us. We spend a good bit of time surveying the situation, and Chris slides on down to do reconnaissance. He says he is pretty confident he can help me back up, so I slide on down, 50% on reassurance and 50% on determination not to come this far, only to be shut out by my own physical limitations.
One of the many logs wedged in the canyon overhead from previous flash floods.
The slot section of the Wire Pass trail ends at 1.7 miles in a “T” intersection. To the left the trail goes back up toward Upper Buckskin, the wash I hiked the day before with Bill and Gaelyn. To the right, the trail is quickly swallowed up by section of steep dark vertical walls that give the Buckskin its foreboding notoriety. After viewing a petroglyph panel near the alcove, we make a right turn, and we are in the gulch!
Chris is standing on an atypically high bank of the most brilliant coral sand I have ever seen.
The trail is relatively dry the first few hundred yards. Oh sure, there are puddles, mud, and wet sand, but there are narrow ledges and sand benches to navigate around the water. But finally, the inevitable happens. We come upon wall-to-wall water. Grateful to have remembered our hiking poles, we probe to determine the depth. “This one seems pretty shallow. Are you taking your shoes off? Yeah? Okay, me too.” We go through this routine of “shoes on / shoes off” for just two puddles, Chris in his neoprene kayak shoes, me in my bare muddy feet until we have had enough. I think I am the first to say it. “I came with the intention of getting my shoes wet, so I may as well get my shoes wet!” Soon, we are wading through water up to our knees, just grateful our pants are not wet!
There appears to be no end to the scenery in this slot canyon. It just goes on and on and on. And on. We stop for pictures, lunch, snacks, conversations, all while the twisting, turning, undulating waves and walls of sandstone continue to flank us. Finally, the walls widen out a bit and the sky is visible where the canyon makes a sharp left turn. It’s 2:00pm. We have been in the slot for three hours, and I have taken over 100 photos. My Popsicle toes feel as if they might break off while hurdling the next big boulder. I reluctantly agree. It’s time to leave.
“T” intersection where Wire Pass trail dead ends into Buckskin Gulch.
The pace out of the canyon is much quicker than that going in, with both Chris and I eager for a dry pair of socks. Marching on through the puddles goes pretty quickly now that our shoes are already soaked and caked in red rock sand. I am enjoying the view as much on the way back as I did out, except for one cloud hanging over my head, giving me a knot in my stomach the size of an eight foot choke stone. As we get closer to the Wire Pass junction, I start to feel butterflies….
As we approach the choke stone, we notice a small cairn on the side indicating there might possibly be a way over the obstacle by exiting the slot canyon, climbing up and over. But it’s steep with little place for foot holds. We discuss the lesser of two evils, and decide to attempt to scale the choke stone. But it’s not the height that is problematic. It is the “reverse pitch” that would require pulling down on the stone in order to catapult ourselves up and over. But the surface of the stone is smooth, and our boots are caked in fine loose sand, making “purchase” on the adjacent walls difficult. After a few tries, we both agree we would prefer the more arduous option of climbing up and over. At least in that instance, we won’t end up beneath a choke stone, deciding who we want to play us in the next “127 Hours” movie!
Climbing up the choke stone.
The trail up and over is to the left. The trail through the slot is to the right.
The feeling of relief floods over me as we are up and over the obstacle, on our way out. It’s a rewarding stretch down the remaining one mile in the wash along the Wire Pass trail, the late afternoon sun warming our cold clammy skin, while the brisk walk helps bring circulation back to our numb feet. It’s good to have feeling in my toes again, though my mind is still numb from the overwhelming awe of such a magnificent place!
Thank you for sharing this beautiful journey . You finally did it! I have enjoyed your photographs and your way with words. I feel like I am there with you. Its a place I probably will never get to in person. Thanks for sharing it with me and others.
Thank you for your kind comment, Kathy. It’s not an easy place to get to, therefore it is a pleasure to share it! It pleases me to learn that others can appreciate it too through my pics and prose.
WOW! Now THAT is a slot canyon! Looks like it was so worth the wet feet!
Lisa, it was beyond worth it! Hope you and Hans get to hike it one day!
I am so incredibly happy that you didn’t have to do it alone. This one has been on my list for a very long time, so I am glad that you did it. I also have never done Spooky, because Hole in the Rock was a mess of mud when we were there, probably not a good time to do a canyon anyway. Geez, Suzanne…your are my canyon goddess!
Sue — Thanks for the nice comment. You make me laugh at the “goddess” comment. That’s me, “Goddess of the Gulch!” haha! I wasn’t familiar with “Spooky,” but thanks to you, it’s now on the list!
We’re always seduced by a slot canyon too whether it’s long, short, deep, shallow, easy, or difficult! We’ve hiked Buckskin twice but that’s the most water I’ve ever seen in there – we encountered a few “puddles” but hardly even got our boots wet. Mind you, we’ve always done it in the spring – April or May and maybe that’s a suggestion for anyone who’s afraid of getting wet. There are always lots of other hikers at that time of year too so there’s no fear of hiking alone if that’s a concern.
Thanks for the memories and great photos. I want to go back now!
Thanks for stopping by, Marianne! I definitely want to visit this area again, as there are so many beautiful hikes along the Paria. Thanks for the tip on April or May.
Holy moley, Gal !!! You had me on the edge of my seat the whole time. My heart was pounding along with yours! The biggest mystery to me is how you remember all of the twists and turns and what to write down about them after you are out of the slot!! I have done a few walks that can’t begin to compare to yours, but once out, I can barely remember anything about having been in there. Do you take notes along the way? I can’t imagine how that would be possible. You are incredible!
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Judie, you always leave such nice comments! No, I don’t take notes along the way, but do try to write while the photos are fresh in my mind. Although I don’t always get the post “published” in a timely manner, I do jot down some thoughts soon after the hike. If it weren’t for the photos, I would never be able to remember where I had been!
just wow!
Thanks, KL! It was definitely a big “Wow!”
Wow, what an awesome hike. I am not sure if I understand exactly how long the hike was total. I don’t mind getting my feet wet, but I certainly would want to make sure I could make it back out. You are way out of my league now, girlfriend!! I certainly would not call you the follow along gal now….Guess that is my lot in life. Wow what great pictures to mark an epic hike!!
Hi, Karen — I didn’t do the entire length of the canyon. Buckskin Gulch is 20 miles in total, so you either have to climb out of the canyon mid way and camp, or “flash” it in one day. There are a lot of bowling ball sized boulders along the path, so I can’t imagine making the entire length in one day! That’s almost a marathon! (And even though the distances are longer and the hikes a little more challenging, I am STILL the “follow along gal.” haha!)
What an awesome adventure!! I’d never heard of this slot before, but then again I’ve not been to the Wave either so that whole area is missing for me. On the list!
Nina
Nina, I would LOVE to see what kind of photo magic you would make of this slot canyon! I look forward to that!
What a beautiful slot canyon and very challenging !!!! So glad Chris showed up just at the right time, nothing happens by coincidence!! When I went on my 5 day trip in early sept with national park tourz, we went to Peek a Boo slot canyon, outside Kanab, completely new experience and amazing!!! I laughed when you said you planned on getting your feet wet. When we went to the narrows at Zion, several people in our group of 7 had water appropriate shoes. I had on a new pair of Ecco “dress” sandles that I thought were a little too nice to submerge, but they were no worse for the wear. My friend had a nice new pair of Merrell hiking shoes. She said she could wear them because they were “waterproof”. Someone said lets see how dry they are after you go through this river!!!! It’s one of those things you have to he there, but was so funny. Fortunately, she left them outside the next day and they were dry for the following days hike. Would have taken a week to dry here in Florida. I want to do the wave on my next “destination trip”. Didn’t realize the experienced folks kind mock such travelers. Guess every hike is really a destination hike until one repeats the hike. Thanks.
Hi, Bobbie — I love the “waterproof” story! Yes, that only works up to about ankle depth. haha! I don’t know if the experienced folks mock us destination travelers, or just try to get us to not miss the journey. But I say “Why not both?” 😉
Such amazing pictures. Those clouds can make a person uneasy while in a slot canyon. If you see them, there may be more out of view. You are a hearty one.
Hi, Debbie — Thanks for the comment. Yes, thankfully, we had a blue sky day, and the only “cloud” hanging over my head was my metaphor of fear! 😉
You are addicted… I recommend Slotaholics Anonymous :))
A great story, and Bobbie and I both wish we could have been there.
Box Canyon Mark
Yes, I am addicted, and you are my “Pusher!” LOL!
So happy you finally got to do this hike, and had Chris to help you get out! I have a feeling I would not have made it either way.
Looks like Marianne answered our question about the best time of year to hike there. Sounds like April or May would keep your feet much drier!
Gayle, with your long legs and Peterman’s determination, I have no doubt you would have made it! Hope you can catch it during the dry season!
I am so glad you didn’t do this alone! Probably not a smart idea with all the water and possible obstacles. I’m sure the slot is different with each flash flood. Definitely a beautiful slot and worth getting wet:) Congratulations!
Hi, Pam — Yes, I was prepared to swim up to my waist, but thankfully it never came to that! Though we did hear it got deeper further into the canyon. 😮
So glad you went for it, and nice to have Chris along to help with the motivation, and climb. I’ve not been in Buckskin with that much water. Your photos bring back delightful memories. I really want to hike more slots. They are magic.
Gaelyn, I agree! Magic indeed! Like wandering through Nature’s enchanted castles. I want more more more!
It is such a pleasure to watch you evolve. You are truly a woman of the Southwest. I envy you the experiences that you have created for yourself just in the last year. Amazing. Our 30 day “trek” in September, the one that included meeting and getting to know Mark & Bobbie, convinced us that full-timing is the lifestyle for us.
Thank you for your words and photos. You truly have a gift…many in fact. Meeting you one day is on OUR bucket list. And we would never pass up an opportunity to go “slot-ing” with you anytime, any where…wet or dry.
Ed — Thanks so much for your kind words! But like most introverted bloggers, what’s in the two-dimensional photos and posts is more interesting than the three-dimensional person. As you already discovered, Mark and Bobbie are the true “bucket list” celebs. 😉
Sounds and looks like quite an adventure. And you took some great pictures. Glad you made it out. I think if you had a little bit of Stephen King in you and add in some reptiles and skeletal remains for effect, you’d have a great camp fire story. It would start like this: “Let me tell you about the time I almost spent my last days trapped forever in Buckskin Gulch!” 😉
J. Dawg — At one point deep in the canyon, we had a very agitated raven overhead that would have provided the perfect sound track!
Ooh, slot-erific! Glad you had a hiking partner so you could help each other with the obstacles. Nothing stops you!
Mindy — Nothing stops me but those deep, sandy, 4WD roads! I need you and Chris to come out here and give me some driving pointers!
Your images are sublime. Buckskin Gulch has been on my wishlist for years. I still haven’t made it there but one day I will. Thank you for reminding me why I want to go!
Courtenay — It is definitely worth the trip! Keep that wish list active! Thanks for stopping by…
Your photos are almost other worldly! Thank you so much for sharing them and some of them almost made me scared for you to get out of there and get out quickly. Admire that you go for what you want and hope you keep on doing just that.
Thank you for the nice comment, Sandy. It was a little scary until we ran into another couple who had gotten down there with two dogs. My strategy was just to not be the last one to leave the canyon. 😉
Wow, and yea for Chris. Awesome blog.
Thanks, Allen — Yes, “yea for Chris.” He is a good friend who has saved my skin on more than one occasion. 😉