The stretch down Highway 1 to my next destination is a long one, requiring eight hours of travel. Bus schedules are not as frequent in the northern state of Baja de Norte as they are further south, so I have the option of leaving at 10:00am and spending all day on the bus, or leaving after dark and sleeping on the bus. No question, I want to see as much of the countryside as possible.
Having been used to jockeying for position on the mainland Mexico buses, I soon realize I am worrying needlessly about securing a window seat. The buses in Baja all seem to run about half empty. Not only do I get a window seat, but the seat next to me is empty. This means I can sit sideways, lean up against the seatback next to me, and watch the scenery roll by like a movie. I make sure I have plenty of snacks for the eight hour bus ride, stopping just short of the popcorn. 😉
As we leave Ensenada, we travel through part of Baja’s burgeoning wine country, passing the vineyards of Santo Tomas. As I have seen in Napa Valley, there are accompanying fields of mustard resulting in carpets of yellow flowers. Curious about the similarities, I researched to find that the mustard is used as a “bio-fumigator” to rid the soil of diseases and pests.
In checking the map in my trusty Moon Guide, I see the bus will be passing through Valle de los Cirios, which translates to “Valley of the Candles.” It’s a long way down to this natural preserve, so my hope is that I will get to see at least a portion of it before sundown, so I watch the landmarks on the map while keeping an eye on the setting sun in eager anticipation.
Boojum Tree looks like an upside down carrot, or a candle for which the Valle de Cirios area is named.
This area is also known for the Cordon Cactus, the tallest cactus species in the world.
The Cordon cactus can grow up to 60 ft tall, and those with multiple limbs can weigh up to 25 tons.
This protected section encompasses one third of the Baja Peninsula. The area is best known and gets its name for the “Boojum” tree, or Fouquieria columnaris, which is mostly endemic to this area. This is a silly looking tree which my guidebook best describes as “Dr. Seuss trees.” They look like upside down carrots – long, skinny tapers with tufts at the end, ergo the name “candles.” Some of them are downright whimsical, as the top section of the “candle” twists and curls. Unfortunately, their narrow, delicate shapes are difficult to capture from a moving bus window.
The Cordon cactus is a relative of the Saguaro, but branches out closer to the base.
…and the Boojum Tree is cousin to the Ocotillo.
I have never seen a more abundant cactus garden than the Valle de los Cirios. And for one who just spent a month in a desert all but devoid of cactus, well, I am quite enjoying the show! As the scenery becomes more dramatic, so does my music choice. As we near the heart of the reserve, I go hard core on the ipod…Puccini’s “La Boheme.” Now I realize opera is not for everyone, but if you ever wanted to love an opera, this would be it. Such a passionate love story with melodic arias that cover my arms with thrill bumps.
The area is also known for many species of palms, including the Silver palm and Fan palm.
Sunset is lighting the “candles.” Too bad my camera could not capture the full moon!
As we roll through the valley, the sun is dropping low in the sky lighting up the “candles” in beautiful shades of gold and bronze. But it gets better. You see, tonight is the full moon. So with a half empty bus, the sun setting in the distant hills out the right window while the enormous golden orb of a moon rises over the mountains through the left window, it is nature’s best show. But like all good Puccini operas, the girl gets it in the end, and I am left staring at the moon with a tear stained face.
Tonight’s Lodging
(This one might have been a little below even my standards, but it was clean and convenient, next door to the tour company’s office.)
Lodging for the Night: Hotel Dunas, Guerrero Negro, 250 Pesos ($15 USD.)
Bathroom View for $15 per night.
I’m really enjoying following your trip in Baja. Looking forward to reading more. The pictures from Ensenada and the ones of the Valle de la Cirios terrain out of the bus window came out really good. But I’m not really getting the bathroom pics. It’s ok. I know us Rver’s with small rigs may consider a regular bathroom a thing a of beauty 😉
Hi, J.Dawg — Maybe it’s a “woman thing,” but I just thought it would be interesting to those unsure of budget travel through Mexico. Whenever I check into a hotel, I always ask to see the room first, so I can check two things — 1.) the mattress, and 2.) the bathroom. A Mexico bathroom can be a deal breaker for me. 😉 If it has no toilet seat, for example. Or a “suicide shower” (water heater attached to the metal shower head.) I find it is also the greatest indicator of the “cleanliness factor.” Thanks for following along!
Thanks. Figured it might be for the curious traveler. You’re not alone in checking them out. Having colitis, I spend a fair amount of time doing recon on bathrooms. Now my interest is piqued so keep those Baja baño pics coming 😉
Very lovely there, Sis!
Maye it’s safe to break the traditional silence I hold here, held least I run someone important away 😉 I have to break and say you are really making me jealous with this trip! Not sure how many share the matter of fact reality (and startling ease) of jumping on an overnight bus into the heart of Mexico but let’s keep our little secret, OK? :-).
Looks interesting and more sparsely populated than I would have imagined. From what I read from the Mexico Facebook groups I am a member of, by their telling it sounds like half the snowbirds are parked somewhere up and down the Mexican coast but from your photos it doesn’t appear so much that way. Still Mexico has a long coast line.
Another thing that sparked my interest here is the vineyards. The word vineyard to me conjures a vision of quaint cottages with chic tasting rooms and elegant displays – Napa Valley, USNY, etc. I am taking it they don’t have those down there?
Another thing I noticed from your photos (great work, incidentally) was that there doesn’t seem to be many side roads that would support boon-dockers (dry camping) or many versions of some sort of make-shift pull-out. With this thought also comes the vision that next year there may have been formed a “white rocks gang” at which point you and the crew have marked and mapped out a whole new set of hiking trails. But long way to the first aid station I would imagine, post undesired reptile encounter or prickly pair to the tush :-).
As always …. keep having fun!!! And more-so thanks for continuing to share!!!!!!
My Dear Hermano,
Yes, I found the RVing snowbirds in “Camp Canada.” Stay tuned for more.
They do have quite a flourishing wine business down here, and in fact, Margie was telling me there are quaint inns, tasting rooms, and tours that are rivaling Napa Valley. That area requires a car to explore, though. Want to come be my designated driver? haha!!
There are a whole lot of side roads, but most of them are gravel, or worse yet, loose sand. I think 4WD would be essential to get too far off the beaten path. I have been following another blogger couple who traded their airstream for a van temporarily to explore the Baja, and have been boondocking on the beautiful beaches. We need to fix up Dad’s old “Good Times Van.” LOL!
xoxox
Absolutely…thank you for continuing to share. So enjoying your trip down beautiful, albeit dusty, trails of Mexico…
I really love this slew of blogs, I’ve missed them
What’s the final destination in Mexico, or did I miss that?
Have fun!!!!!
Hi, Chrisshelley — The final destination is until I run out of money or land…whichever comes first. 😉
Beautiful country, I love the idea of the Bio pesticide mustard, and the rooms look cleaner than the Motel 6’s I’ve stayed in here in the USA!
Thank you, for painting such beautiful pictures of your adventures. I look forward to each new post. I would have chosen the day trip too, knowing that I probably wouldn’t sleep at night on that bus.
Having never been further south than Ensenada, I’m looking forward to posts daily!!! Keep it coming!!! I remember Don used to take pictures of the fish skeletons in Mexico. That was fun. I know you have to eat tomorrow. Post, please!!! smiles……..
Never fear, Reta Kay — The fish skeleton will make it’s appearance before this trip is done!
Travelling by bus can be relaxing and gives you the opportunity to enjoy the passing scenery. The bedrooms look fine to me after all on a trip like this all you want is a clean bedroom and bathroom and a comfy bed. I’ve stayed in worse places, and at least its not a hostel. But having said this I expect you’ll be pleased to get back to your “home”, slot it into gear and get on the road to explore more places.
I’ve never heard of the Boojun Tree and now I have seen it twice in a couple days! I saw it the other day in Desert Garden in Carefree! A very interesting plant! Love the Cordon cactus! another new one!! Great road trip!
I was right there with you on that bus, especially when you cranked up La Boheme. My Mom sang in the chorus of that opera as she did many others. Great vacation from you life 🙂
OMWow!! Gorgeous desert scenery, even through a bus window. I’ve seen the giant Cordon with trunks the size of a PNW fir. But that Boojum is a new one, wild looking. How wonderful to enjoy a half empty bus. Seems when I rode Mexican buses it was often standing room nonly. If the room is clean and has a bathroom how can one complain for that price.
Love the pairing of cactus views and La Boheme topped off by a nearly empty bus. I wonder if I’d have the spunk to just go to Mexico until my money or the land ran out. You go!
I just adore your writing Suzanne. Your lovely photos are bringing back some lovely memories of our year exploring the interior of Mexico. Thx!
Palm Desert has The Living Desert, and the garden there has copies of all those gorgeous cactus you photographed from the bus. Many were amazing and fantastical, so I was glad I had seen them with their little name tags before I saw them here. Not so sure about that last bathroom…I guess we are really spoiled with our own clean bathroom following us around, but like you , I wouldn’t want to drive in Mexico…not even sure I’ll ever manage a bus trip alone to Mexico either, so I am glad you are doing it for me….maybe like Angel’s Landing…sigh.