The downside of staying in Slab City longer than I planned is that I am now approaching Joshua Tree National Park during the Perfect Storm; Spring Break, Easter Weekend, and the annual blooming of the Joshua Trees.   But I don’t want to delay.  I was headed to Joshua Tree last spring when I learned of my brother’s demise, and had to abort the plan driving the 1,367 miles home to Texas.  So it’s still a National Park not yet crossed off the Bucket List.   Crowds or not, I must go!

Approaching from the south, fields of yellow unfurl.

The south side of the park is considered “low desert” with Sonoran-type vegetation.

Cholla Garden

After fleeing the flies of the Salton Sea, I stop for a night in the south boondocking area just outside the park near I-10.  I figure I will get an early start, and see if I can get lucky with a first come, first served campsite inside the park.  Not only is the prospect of a campsite laughable, I can’t even find space in a pull-out!  It’s disappointing that out of three Visitor’s Centers in this park, none have more than two curbside spaces to accommodate a towing RV!

Why am I suddenly craving baked potatoes?

Joshua Tree is a favorite among rock climbers. Note climber almost to the top of largest rock.

Still, the drive through the park is beautiful, and I marvel at the change in topography as I cross the delineation between the two deserts.   The south end, or Colorado Desert is a blanket of yellow, with sunshine yellow Sun Cups blooming on the desert floor and the Brittlebushes upholstered in lemon yellow polka dots.  I get excited over seeing what I think is my first blooming Joshua Tree, but later learn they are Mojave Yucca.  The elevation in the south end of the park is too low for Joshua Trees.  It will be another 30 miles and 3,000 ft before I see my first Joshua Tree.  And yes, they are blooming like crazy!

It’s a steady, gradual incline up a scenic, winding two lane park road to the western side of the park, and as advertised, the topography as I cross over to the Mojave Desert is vastly different.   I head toward the western entrance, which I have read is the most scenic part of the park.   It’s  almost 70 miles from the south side of the park to the western entrance, and I am glad I have approached from the south, as the scenery improves the further I drive west.

Joshua Trees named by Mormon settlers for outstretched arms that reminded them of the prophet Joshua.

Trees don’t branch off until after they have bloomed.

About halfway through, the stark rugged mountains of the south end flatten out, as the landscape is punctuated by giant granite boulders looking like Chernobyl-grown oven roasted Golden Idaho potatoes, stockpiled intermittently across the landscape.  Now at higher elevation, I begin to see the tall, spindly, Joshua Trees, arms outstretched in a twisted, distorted, ghostly-like stance.   Most of them have enormous beefy blooms at the end of each arm.  These trees were named by the Mormon settlers who thought the outstretched arms resembled the prophet Joshua, beckoning to the promised land.

View from Ryan Mountain Summit

I stop at Jumbo Rocks Campground to have a look, but it is more like Jumble Rocks, as the boulders are covered in crawling kids and RVs parked so far out into the road it is difficult to even drive through.   I knew going in the campground was full, but I wanted to do some reconnaissance for a potential return visit.  But getting through this campground between kids playing in the street, bicyclers, people crossing without looking, or opening their doors into oncoming traffic is like running the gauntlet.  I drive straight to the north “overflow” camping on Sunfair Road, a dust bowl of a dry lake.  But it’s only 10 miles back into the park, so I will make this my base for exploring.

North boondocking near dry lake bed.

Although I did a good bit of walking in Slab City and the Salton Sea, I am in need of some elevation gain, so I pick my first hike based on incline.  Unfortunately, Ryan Mountain is also listed in the Park Newsletter as “one of the most popular hikes in the park.”   It’s a steady stream of 20 somethings traveling en masse.   On the heels of the “Generation Y’ers” or Millenials, I guess this next group will be referred to as “Generation Z.”  Though I think a more fitting title for these kids would be “Generation E” for “entitlement.”   I have never met a ruder group of hikers.  They do not stop to yield, neither uphill nor down.  Intent on taking their party up the mountain with them, they travel with tinny music blaring from their smart phones that sounds more like a tin can of rocks than “Rock.”   And I counted six different groups traveling on NP trails with dogs…two of those off leash.    I think this is unfair to those who observe NP rules, thereby forced to choose between leaving their pets behind or forgoing the hike.   I would have liked to do as Ranger Gaelyn does and “turn them around,” but my luck, I would be cited for impersonating an officer.  😉

Ryan Mountain is only a three mile hike, so I decide to fit in one more 4 miler to Lost Horse Mine.  This trail leads up to an old gold mine that was in operation from 1893 to 1908.   The Ranger recommends this as “a good place to see Joshua Trees.”  Unfortunately upon arriving down the long, dirt road to reach the trailhead, I see a sign that says that the Joshua Trees along this trail burned in the 450 acre fire of 2009.   I can’t help but wonder if the Ranger has been on the trail since then…

Trail to Lost Horse Mine

Mining claim was discovered while looking for a “lost horse.”

Stone walled tank used for water storage for the mine.

It’s only Friday, and the Spring Break and  weekend crowds are sure to get worse before they get better.   I get word that friends Jim and Gayle are hunkering down in the Mojave Preserve until March Madness subsides.  I decide to head north, leaving further exploration of Joshua Tree for a quieter time…