It’s not possible to move between the Channel Islands by way of commercial transportation. Only by private boat can one visit multiple islands in one boat trip. Otherwise, one must go back to the mainland and book another excursion with Island Packers. Which is precisely what I did.
So why would I do this after having spent three delightful, fulfilling days hiking, kayaking, and exploring Santa Cruz…really, all the best that the Channel Islands has to offer? What has Anacapa Island got that Santa Cruz hasn’t got??
Yes, it’s that time again. Back on the coast, and I can’t resist the lure of a beautiful lighthouse. Especially one that stands all alone on an island! Anacapa Island Light, constructed in 1932, was the last permanent lighthouse to be built along the western coast, allowing mariners to navigate the narrow, 1,000 ft deep channel between the islands and the mainland.
Anacapa Island, closest to the mainland, is actually three small islets, East, Middle, and West, attached beneath the surface by reef. They are named for their Chumash Native American Indian name which means “mirage.” The only island with a commercial launch is the East Island, about one mile long by a quarter mile wide. The east island is the only one of the three inhabited in modern times, as East Anacapa is also the location of the lighthouse.
It’s another crazy boat ride across the marine-rich channel as we pass sea lions doing the backstroke, three gray whales migrating close to shore, and then the Captain spots a dolphin riding our bow wake. First there is one….then two….then three….then…
We will be docking alongside a huge platform where we must climb 157 steps to the top. There is lots of talk of safety instructions on arrival, including how to climb a ladder. 😉
Once we reach the intermediate platform, we are met by Ranger Bryce for an orientation. He tells us we are fortunate to have arrived in the peak of the western gull nesting season. Turns out, Anacapa Island is host to the largest breeding colony of western gulls in the world. And to think, I just came for the lighthouse…
Ranger Bryce warns us that gulls are nesting right on the trail, and he’s not kidding! He tells us to be prepared, as it will be quite a noisy visit. Again, he’s not kidding! He warns gulls can be very territorial when humans approach their nests, but considering they are lining the trails, well, we are coached on how to fend off! His best advice is “If the bird is squawking, keep on walking!”
Hilarity ensues as we as a group start out walking, while the “largest breeding colony in the world” begins squawking! What is equally hilarious is listening to the people talk back to them. “Chill OUT!” “Relax!” “I ain’t gonna mess with you!” while others take a more nurturing stance, “It’s okay, baby…we won’t hurt you!” We all seem a bit taken aback. It’s a lot of squawking regardless of where we are walking!
The Anacapa trail system offers only two miles of hiking, but what it lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality as viewpoints overlook the sheer, steep cliffs. Below, sea lions and seals are basking and barking on the rocky shores.. I decide to join Ranger Bryce’s talk in spite of the crowd following him, because I am fascinated by these gulls which always seem so illusive on the beach, yet now won’t move out of my path. 😉 His walking tour takes us out to Inspiration Point, which certainly lives up to its name.
Do you know there is no such bird as a “seagull?” That is just their layman’s term. Each different member of the species has its own name and distinguishing characteristics. Bryce points out the only chick on the island that has hatched, and asks us to give it a wide berth….the proverbial “early bird” is getting all the attention.
I save the best for last…a stop by the Visitor Center to see the gleaming, polished prisms of the original 3rd Order Fresnel lens. Once serving as a beacon to guide ships for 60 years, has been lovingly restored and is now on display as the jewel in the crown of the tiny Anacapa Visitor’s Center inside one of the historic Coast Guard buildings.
“The multifaceted crystal lenses, bound in polished brass, are still among man’s most beautiful creations. A static display of a lighthouse lens in a museum, however, is similar to viewing an animal in a zoo. Once removed from its natural habitat it’s never quite the same. I get chills remembering foggy nights when the sweep of the powerful light flashed through the mist, illuminating a small part of the sky.”
~ James W. Baker, Lighthouse Keeper, 1956 (composed after his return visit to the island in 2001.)
“Don’t believe what your eyes are telling you. All they show is limitation. Look with your understanding. Find out what you already know and you will see the way to fly.”
~ Richard Bach, Jonathan Livingston Seagull
I can’t imagine how loud the gulls must have been! The newbie is so cute:) Love that arch! I would take the tour just to photograph the arch. Glad you included several photos:) What a great trip!
So glad you made the second trip! Yet another beautiful light.
Love, love, love!! What a gorgeous lighthouse and trip. I particularly enjoyed the quote about the Fresnel lens from the lighthouse keeper. I’ve always felt that way, but never been able to describe it. Fabulous!
Nina
Great pictures. Herring gulls are vicious, one way to avoid the attacks is to put you hat on the end of a pole, as they will go for that. In urban areas they will attack birds in flight.
Oh what a great photo layout, I totally want to do this day trip. The island, lighthouse and arch are so iconic, and to experience them in person – WOW!
Jeff, since you are reasonably close, try to time it when the yellow coreopsis flowers are in bloom, between January and March. As I understand it, the whole island turns so yellow, you can see the color from the mainland on a clear day!
So glad you went to the Channel Islands and thanks for taking us along in your photos and words. I feel like we’ve been there now, and our legs didn’t even get sore from all those miles of hiking and stairs!
The sound and the stink must have been incredible around all those gulls!
What a great island and lighthouse.
Photos and musings and quotes…oh, my!…what a delightful post. 🙂
Love this post and the many beautiful photos. Adding this to my list!
Thanks for the tour and a bit of history of the island. That lighthouse is a beauty. Would love to see all those roosting gulls. Glad you decided to make the trip Suzanne.
Beautiful pictures! Your gull experiences sound similar to what happens when someone approaches the Canadian Geese with their babies. Lots of squawking, hissing, and evil eyes. The geese can make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.