Slack Tide

I ended up staying my maximum allowed 14 days in the quaint little Point Hudson Marina.   Slowly throughout the day after the mass exodus following the Wooden Boat Festival, the marina began to come to life again as a new crew of RVers settled in and weekenders moored their yachts in my back yard.  Every day was spent doing some activity that caused me to fall more in love with this town.   Here are a few of the favorite ways I passed the two weeks.

I soon had neighbors...

I soon had neighbors…

View from my back bedroom window...

View from my back bedroom window…

View through the Winnie door...

View through the Winnie door…

It was Isak Dinesen who said, “The cure for anything is salt water – sweat, tears, or the sea,” so there is no more therapeutic place to soothe my soul than Port Townsend’s “Soak on the Sound.”   I visited as often as my budget would allow.   What a treat to slip into the steaming hot pool, crack a window to let the cold damp air in to cool my face while I soak until I can’t take the heat any longer.  Then out to the cold shower, rinse and repeat.  On Wednesdays, if you book a massage the hour long soak is included.

One of the private soaking tubs at Soak on the Sound.

One of the private soaking tubs at Soak on the Sound.

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I have been a fan of Victorian architecture since my youth.

I have been a fan of Victorian architecture since my youth.

Port Townsend is known for its love of theatre and the arts.  In fact, their annual film festival was the reason I had to leave, as my reservation ended with no way to extend — the town was booked.   In the heart of the theatre experience is the glamorous Starlight Room on the third floor of the historic turn of the century Rose Theatre.   One enters the 21 and older venue through a bar where gourmet foods can be ordered to go with the cocktails.  Instead of a number, you are given a card with the photo of a movie star.  Then precede in to choose your seating in plush Victorian chairs with coffee tables and foot rests, while you hear over the PA, “Steve McQueen, your order is ready.”   Gaze out the floor to ceiling windows over Port Townsend and enjoy a beverage before the black-out curtains are drawn as the movie starts.

Don't miss a show in the Starlight Room!

Don’t miss a show in the Starlight Room!

Sushi rolls from the little Hanazono Asian Noodle next door to the Rose Theatre.

Sushi rolls from the little Hanazono Asian Noodle next door to the Rose Theatre.

Street musicians are a common experience in the historic downtown.

Street musicians are a common experience in the historic downtown.

Even the “regular” theater is unique, as first-run films are shown in the 1906 Vaudeville theatre which still contains the original frescos and ceiling.  A live emcee provides background before each feature.  Even the popcorn is gourmet, with sticks of real sweet cream butter on offer, along with a tray of toppings to suit all dietary needs, from Parmesan Cheese to Natural Brewer’s Yeast (sounds terrible, tastes fantastic!)

This yacht is so big, the Winnie could be its dinghy!

This yacht is so big, the Winnie could be its dinghy!

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The path that lines the Point Hudson Marina dead ends at the beach.  A couple of hours before and after low tide, it’s possible to walk all the way to the Point Hudson Lighthouse in Fort Worden.   It’s two miles  in each direction, a lovely walk mixed with beach, bluffs, sounds and smells from the sea.  I try to walk this path at every opportunity.

Mt Baker behind the birds.

Mt Baker behind the birds.

It's a nice 2 mile walk along the beach to Point Wilson Lighthouse.

It’s a nice 2 mile walk along the beach to Point Wilson Lighthouse.

When I was here in 2014, it was possible to go up to the lens room, but it's closed now...not sure if it is just a seasonal closure or longer...

When I was here in 2014, it was possible to go up to the lens room, but it’s closed now…not sure if it is just a seasonal closure or longer…

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My absolute favorite stop along the walking path is to visit Charlie.  We were born in the same hospital in Ft Worth, Texas.  Every sunny morning, he comes down to the water’s edge where he does plein air watercolor painting.   I stop for a chat each day he is there.  We talk about everything from RVing to painting techniques.  I love watching his paintings evolve day by day.  I have collected water colors since the early 80’s when I bought my first while living in New Orleans.  When I took my round the world trip in 2002, they were the only souvenir I collected, consequently I have a storage shed full of them back in Texas.  Now, I have one more…

This is Charlie. I could sit and watch him paint for hours.

This is Charlie. I could sit and watch him paint for hours.

Charlie's view from the picnic table is snowy Mt Baker.

Charlie’s view from the picnic table is snowy Mt Baker.

The "Sara Lee," she is mine.

The “Sara Lee,” she is mine.

Best place to start the day is in the little Velocity Coffee Shop inside the Northwest Maritime Center. As I sit and watch the marina come to life, I reflect back on mornings spent here in 2014 when I was still working full time, and would bring my laptop here to work. I find satisfaction sitting in the same chair two years later as a much more contented retiree.

My favorite, an "Arancia," or mocha with a twist of orange peel.

My favorite, an “Arancia,” or mocha with a twist of orange peel.

The little Siren's Bar overlooks Port Townsend Bay.

The little Siren’s Bar overlooks Port Townsend Bay.

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But I think the essence of Port Townsend can be summed up in their Farmer’s Market, which occurs both on Saturday mornings and Wednesday afternoons.  Truly a community hub, this is when the “localness” that makes Port Townsend unique is at its best.  It’s tough getting down the rows as people linger for a chat.  Seating on the benches at the live music stage is at a premium.  Everything is locally grown, from the cheese from the Mt. Townsend Creamery to the scrumptious Pane de Amore (I highly recommend their Cranberry Walnut Bread!)

Antique steam iron on display at Farmer's Market crafts booth.

Antique steam iron on display at Farmer’s Market crafts booth.

Seafood Paella

Seafood Paella

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This booth sells all parts of the lamb, from yarn to chops to dehydrated lamb's lung for pet food.

This booth sells all parts of the lamb, from wool to chops to dehydrated lamb’s lung for pet food.

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Prepare to have your lips ripped off. A new level of hotness.

Prepare to have your lips ripped off. Gotta hand it to ’em…that’s descriptive!

There’s plenty to do in Port Townsend during the “high tides” of September – the Wooden Boat Festival, the Ukulele Festival, and the Film Festival are just a few examples.  But it’s the slack tide that makes it feel like home…img_7148

23 thoughts on “Slack Tide

  1. Wow! Charming. I went thru there about 30 years ago and loved it . Didnt spend much time tho. Can you tell me more about RV parking at the Marina where you have been for 14 days? What does it cost? Is it hard to get a spot? you dont have to be a boater to park there? Maybe you wrote about it elsewhere and can direct me to it if you want. I plan to get an RV by springtime and hit the road early or mid summer. I am first planning to head North as I realy want to go up into Wyoming montana and possibly a little into Canada before the winter hits, so maybe I will head up the coast first. Nothing is written in stone but those are places on my list.

    • Hi, Sue — The RV Park is at the Point Hudson Marina and RV Park. The price ranges from $30 a night for their dry camping (only 2 spaces) to $55 a night for “front row” with full hook-ups. I was in the dry camping space. It’s pricey, but no better location than to explore the area, as all the things in this post are just a 10 minute walk away. And the views here of the sea life and boat traffic are sublime! So it’s a bit of a splurge, but worth it in my opinion!

  2. OK you have sooo shown that Port Townsend is so much more than a ferry landing! You’ve managed to avoid the ferry traffic and find such charm I had no idea was just off main street. As usual all your photos are great, but that last one is perfect! I could use a glass of wine watching the harbor right now!

  3. Fun to see Port Townsend again through your eyes. Hard to believe it was just 2 years ago that we were there. Very much a quaint little town. Looks like you really settled in without the pressures of work!

  4. Been a dreary stressful day. What a delight to read such a calming peaceful post! Makes me sit back and take a deep breath. Thanks!

  5. I love PT’s Saturday Farmers Market. I always make a point to get there when the market opens and the same little girl rings her bell and announces ” The market’s open, the market’s open…”

  6. What a special place:) I have been pinning ideas on the town for awhile. Hopefully, next summer we’ll get to visit since we are heading that way. Your views from Winnie are wonderful:) You chose a beautiful watercolor from Charlie! What fun to watch him work:) Love, love that writer’s post card!!! Too funny! Glad you had such a good time. Hope the foot is healing:)

  7. You,ve tucked so many little nuggets of joy into this post, I hardly know where to start. I’ll take that Dinesen quote for starters–I’ve never seen it before. It’s so very true

  8. I’ve enjoyed following your journey this year up the Pacific Coast from Baja to the Olympic peninsula. Your posts let many enjoy the trip with you. Thanks for sharing it with us. So now that you’ve covered the Pacific coast, what’s your heading when the tide comes in?

  9. All your lovely photos took me back to Port Townsend. I didn’t know about the soaking tubs. Not sure how I missed them. Many a morning was spent at the Velocity Coffee Shop. Love the farmers market. We went back a couple of times for their salmon panini sandwiches. And the Starlight Room was one of my favorite places to go. Have never enjoyed a movie theater as much.

  10. July 26, 1995 held the finale of the tv series “Northern Exposure”. The last episode’s final scene played out with Iris DeMent singing her poignantly beautiful song, “Our Town”. Your reminiscing of Port Townsend, in descriptions and quotes and images, has, several times, taken me back to that wonderfully peculiar imaginary town of Cicely, Alaska. A place of eccentricity, a slice of twilight dreams. That you were able to touch that, and absorb it, makes you one lucky lady, indeed.

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