Into Every Life Some Rain Must Fall

Colorado has been in my sites as my summer destination this year since the end of the season in 2015 when the declining temperatures cut my exploration short, sending me back south. This summer, my hope is to travel further north and see some of the areas I didn’t get to explore last time.

But at the same time, I want to also hit some of the places I missed along the way. My attempt is to walk that fine line between revisiting (remembering?) what I’ve missed versus not feeling remorse over what I am missing. That’s a tough one to explain. Meaning I want to go back and see some of the things I loved, without risking the feelings of nostalgia associated with the premise, “You can’t go home again.”

After 8 fast and furious days in the big cities, followed by a couple of weeks of farm chores back in Triple Digit Texas, I came back to the Winnie in storage in Santa Fe, eager to find a place to just park it for a while. Last summer’s over 10,000 miles to Atlantic Canada has had me longing for a slower pace. So I pick one of my favorite towns in the west, Durango. It seems like the perfect place for me to be stationary while surrounded by infrastructure. There are hiking and biking trails nearby along the beautiful Animas River, and a convenient Rec Center within walking distance. I figure it will be the perfect place for me to work on regaining some of my fitness level lost over the winter while holing up on the farm.

I should have had a clue when I called my favorite campground in the town of Durango, and was easily able to book an extended stay. I would soon find out why…

Signs line the fences and appear in front of all retail outlets thanking the firefighters for their service, stopping the 416 fire from closing in on Durango.

Signs line the fences and appear in front of all retail outlets thanking the firefighters for their service, stopping the 416 fire from closing in on Durango.

No trip through Dolores is complete without stopping for one of their famous pies. Problem is, they only offer one size. Don't judge...half of it is still in my freezer.

No trip through Dolores is complete without stopping for one of their famous pies. Problem is, they don’t sell by the slice. Don’t judge…half of it is still in my freezer.

Driving in from dusty dry Santa Fe, it was a thrill to see the lush green mountains again. Passing through Pagosa Springs, I am reminded of the fun times I had there on my past two visits. I hadn’t checked the weather forecast, because I was in it for the long haul. With the nice Rec Center near the campground and activities available in town, I had a back-up plan for when the monsoons arrived.

But as I got closer to Durango, I noticed an odd pink cloud in the distance. Smoke from the 416 fire, raging near the ski resort, Purgatory. But the wind was keeping the smoke at bay. I could rarely detect the smell….until, that is, the wind died. As I parked the rig and got set up, I was feeling optimistic that I may be out of the smoke path. But by sundown, the town of Durango was in a shroud of dusky pink. I couldn’t even see the nearby local mountains. The sun was a hazy orange ball, and everything took on a monochrome look, as if looking through rose sunglasses. By morning, I had a sore throat, and my Winnie smelled like a stale ashtray. I could smell smoke in my hair and on my bedding. I’ve never smoked a pack a day, but I am guessing this must be what it feels like….and certainly smells like.

I had to get out, but to where? Thankfully, the campground was willing to refund my payment, sympathetic from their own inability to breathe.  To make matters even more stressful, I was facing the July 4th holiday with no place to go. My Scamp friend Maureen came to the rescue with a recommendation of a high alpine boondock spot at 10,000 ft near Telluride.

The view from my bedroom window of my closest neighbor.

The view from my bedroom window of my closest neighbor.

Here's my spot. Not as good as my neighbor's, but I am a chicken when it comes to driving rough roads to get further up.

Here’s my spot. Not as good as my neighbor’s, but I am a chicken when it comes to driving rough roads to get further up.

Even though I can no longer smell the smoke, there are reminders it's not far...

Even though I can no longer smell the smoke, there are reminders it’s not far…

Arriving to the clear, cool air was a blissful break. I found a level place to park not too far in, as the rocks and pot holes in the road were brutal. But I was able to find a pullout somewhat out of the flow of traffic. It was cool, it was incredibly scenic and there were trails in every direction. And I finally saw my first wildflowers of the season! But as with most idyllic spots, there’s a catch. No signal.

There are several nice hikes in the area. Since I am at over 10,000 ft, there are also wildflowers.

There are several nice hikes in the area. Since I am at over 10,000 ft, there are also wildflowers.

Beautiful stands of Aspen, waving in the breeze.

Beautiful stands of Aspen, waving in the breeze.

This is bear country. A solo jogger comes down as I am taking this close-up, and I nearly faint!

This is bear country. A solo jogger comes down as I am taking this close-up, and I nearly faint!

I love how they all turn to face the sun.

I love how they all turn to face the sun.

Can't get enough of those Columbines!

Can’t get enough of those Columbines, a sure sign I am in Colorado!

It’s a fairly long, steep drive down into Telluride, so I planned a day trip to get my “fix.” I brought my laptop, a layer of warmer clothes, and my walking shoes, with the plan to spend the day. Parking was free and abundant at the upper Mountain Village, and the free gondola ride down into town, an added bonus.

My best discovery in Telluride was the local library. They even have a bumper sticker that says “Telluride: Come for the Skiing. Stay for the Library.” I would, almost. It’s likely one of the best libraries I have ever visited. Lots of cozy nooks for reading, comfortable chairs, and even a quiet zone, because unfortunately you still need one even though it’s a library!

One of the cozy seating areas in the Wilkinson Public Library in Telluride.

One of the cozy seating areas in the Wilkinson Public Library in Telluride.

How's this for a Travel Section? It rivals a Barnes & Nobel with guidebooks, maps, etc.

How’s this for a Travel Section? It rivals a Barnes & Nobel with guidebooks, maps, etc.

Another library seating area.

Another library seating area.

This beautiful round domed room has been designated the quiet zone. The sign on the desk reads, "Keep calm, you're entering a quiet zone."

This beautiful round domed room has been designated the quiet zone. The sign on the desk reads, “Keep calm, you’re entering a quiet zone.” My kinda place.

Telluride is also feeling the effects of a dry winter.

Telluride is also feeling the effects of a dry winter.

I always wonder when I arrive at an idyllic place like this, what will be the driving factor that forces me to leave? Since I am hoping for a slower pace this summer, will I stay the fully allotted 14 days? But something always seems to happen before my 14 days are up that has me hitching up for onward travel. Or, as my dear mother loves to remind me of her own version of Wadsworth’s quote, “Into every life, a little rain must fall….”

In this case, my water pump developed a lovely fan-like fountain spray. I had plenty of water onboard, but no way to use it without flooding the floor. Thankfully, I was carrying a spare on board, but with no mobile tech for miles and no access to information, it didn’t promise much help.

Finally, I move to a lower spot where I can get a signal to try to find a mobile tech. But first, I am going to at least make the attempt.

This is the "Galloping Goose" trail, former route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

This is the “Galloping Goose” trail, former route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

This `72 mile narrow gauge railway ran from Ridgway to Durango in 1890 and 1891.

This 172 mile narrow gauge railway ran from Ridgway to Durango in 1890 and 1891.

The historic Trout Lake Trestle has recently been fortified, but no crossings are allowed. The Galloping Goose trail goes around...

The historic Trout Lake Trestle has recently been fortified, but no crossings are allowed. The Galloping Goose trail goes around…

It's orderly support structure is a thing of beauty...glad they are taking steps to preserve it.

It’s orderly support structure is a thing of beauty…glad they are taking steps to preserve it.

The 50,000 gallon water tank was there as a part of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

The 50,000 gallon water tank was there as a part of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

Trout Lake is a scenic, serene spot that I enjoy in different light at various times throughout my stay.

Trout Lake is a scenic, serene spot that I enjoy in different light at various times throughout my stay.

I can't decide if I like the kayaker or the stand-up paddle-boarder better, so you are getting both.

I can’t decide if I like the kayaker or the stand-up paddle-boarder better, so you are getting both.

Nearby Priest Lake is more like Priest Pond during this years drought.

Nearby Priest Lake is more like Priest Pond during this years drought.

There are some quaint cabins along the lake shore. Unfortunately, this one is in disrepair.

There are some quaint cabins along the lake shore. Unfortunately, this one is in disrepair.

Whether smoke or clouds come and go, it's still a gorgeous view, particularly still in early morning.

Whether smoke or clouds come and go, it’s still a gorgeous view, particularly still in early morning.

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I continue to be amazed these days at what you can find on YouTube. There for the asking is a 10 minute video telling me step by step instructions on how to replace my new water pump! With that video, along with a half dozen email questions to my brother Don, I have success! As one who got the least amount of the “handy gene” in the family, I am pretty proud of myself. With nothing more than a Phillips screwdriver, a wire cutter, and some electrical tape, I have a new water pump!

One of the many photos I emailed to my brother Don. There's no plastic thing at the end like the old pump...what do I do now??

One of the many photos I emailed to my brother Don. “There’s no plastic thing at the end like the old pump…what do I do now??”

I shall not be intimidated by wires! (Okay, well, maybe a little.)

I shall not be intimidated by wires! (Okay, well, maybe a little.)

"Into every RVers life, a little dinnerware must fall." This is what happens when you think you are level, stop to make lunch, and then think maybe you can improve the degree slightly...

“Into every RVers life, a little dinnerware must fall.” This is what happens when you think you are level, stop to make lunch, and then decide maybe you can improve the degree slightly…

Some often say bloggers only blog about the beautiful bits. Thankfully, they are almost all beautiful. But occasionally, there are those moments when I ask myself if it’s worth the challenges, especially as the sole driver, sole navigator, sole travel planner, sole mechanic, chief, cook, and bottle washer. But to my mother’s favorite Longfellow quote of “Into every life, some rain must fall,” I always remind myself, “Yes, but with every cloud, there is a silver lining, and without the rain, we wouldn’t have rainbows.”

And with that, the monsoons finally arrive leaving Telluride with a double rainbow. It was so fun to see everyone come out into the street with their phones and cameras.

And with that, the monsoons finally arrive leaving Telluride with a double rainbow. It was so fun to see everyone come out into the street with their phones and cameras, happy to see the rain.

19 thoughts on “Into Every Life Some Rain Must Fall

  1. You are my heroine. I have very bad dreams about my future as a solo woman having to be and do everything. Maybe I can just tag after you when that day comes. You certainly are an inspiration that keeps me thinking perhaps I can do it. Many thanks!

    • Sherry — I have every confidence that you can do it! “Will” overpowers “skill” every time, and I have followed long enough to know you’ve got it!

    • Hi, Nancy. I didn’t visit the powerhouse and falls this trip, but I did see it when here in 2015. I took a jeep ride with friends down Black Bear Pass into Telluride, and we stopped at the falls for photos.

      Sorry I don’t have any info on Bayfield, but I think the 416 fire is over and out, thankfully.
      Hope you are doing well.

  2. We still have so much of Colorado to see and hike. I want to visit in the summer/fall before the snow. Hopefully, next summer/fall this will finally be the plan. Glad you found a place away from the smoke. I so enjoy seeing the wildflowers. I am so missing the west. Thank goodness we are on our way back.

  3. We missed the Durango library. Looks quite nice!
    There was lots more water in Priest Lake in 2015. Maybe the monsoon rains after you left have filled it up.

  4. I love to read your blog but my old eyes are having a hard time seeing the white print. Do you or anyone else know if there is a way to change the writing from white to black? Thanks!

    • Hi, Vicky. Sorry you are having trouble. I don’t know how to change it without changing the entire WordPress theme on this end, which sorry, I do not wish to do. Do you know how to copy and paste? If so, you can copy the text and paste it into a notepad or word doc and read from there. Another option is to hold down your CRTL key while you hit the plus sign. While holding down the CRTL, the screen will get slightly larger with each stroke of the Plus key. Hope that helps.

  5. Good job on the water pump. We did ours in Astoria and it was a complete and total pain in the butt. It’s screwed to a bulk head and we couldn’t get the new screws to line up with the old holes. Finally took a screw gun to it and called her good. Sorry about the plates.

    • Allison, mine was screwed to a bulkhead also. The holes lined up, but the problem was the new pump had a much thicker “platform,” so the old screws would not even reach through the holes in the mount. Wouldn’t you think for the price they charge for the new pump, they could throw in forty cents worth of screws?? So even when I got the water all drained, the old pump out, and the wires spliced, I couldn’t complete the job until I drove 15 miles to a hardware store! Steamed, yes!

  6. Goodness those views have me searching ways to get to Durango/Telluride! Glad you (& Don) got that water pump replaced. I remember he impressed me when I was about 6yrs old that he took apart & put back together a radio. Then he went on to taking apart & putting back together cars……:-o!
    One of my favorite sayings is from the one & only Dolly Parton: “The way I see it, if you want the rainbow, you gotta put up with the rain.”
    🙂

  7. Very cool that you were able to replace your own water pump. Glad that the smoke didn’t drive you out and that the monsoons brought some rain. Your photos are beautiful. Wish we could get a little of that cooler weather.

  8. Enjoyed reading about your experience in the Telluride area. We spent 4 days in Rico, CO. The weather was so nice. Curious where you buy that delicious looking pie in Dolores. We drive through Dolores almost every time we visit CO but I haven’t seen the pies. I have eaten hamburgers and Mexican food but no pie. Enjoy your time in CO.

    • Hi, Debra. Thanks for the question. The famous pies come from the “Dolores Food Mart, Unexpected Gourmet.” (That name cracks me up.) It’s on the right hand side as you drive east through town. They’ve got a nice selection of “gourmet” items, including house-made salsa. But they are best known for their baked goods, most particularly pie! http://www.doloresfoodmarket.com/

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