To some, “Valhalla” in that subject line might refer to the Norse mythology, a realm of the afterlife that Vikings aspired to enter upon their death. A form of heaven, if you will.
However, if you are like me, a musically influenced child of the 60’s and 70’s, you will instead recognize it as part of the lyrics of Led Zeppelin’s “Immigrant Song,” written during Led Zeppelin’s tour of Iceland in the summer of 1970 which opened in Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital city. The song was written by Robert Plant while a guest of the Icelandic Government touring Iceland on a cultural mission. This visit inspired the lyrics, “We come from the land of the ice and snow, from the midnight sun where the hot springs flow.” Not only is that my current “ear-worm” I can’t get rid of, it’s also painted on rent.is camper van rentals. Wonder how they got the rights to that.
Central landmark at the top of the hill in the town of Reykjavik is Hallgrímskirkja, a Lutheran church began in 1945 and finished in 1986, taking 41 years to complete. At 244 ft, it is among the tallest structures in the country. It is reminiscent of the many basalt columns found throughout canyons, waterfalls, and cliff sides in Iceland.
Leif Ericson (ca. 970 – ca. 1020) is regarded as the first European to land in North America nearly 500 years before Christopher Columbus. According to Icelandic sagas, he established the settlement of L’Anse aux Meadows that I visited in 2017 while in Newfoundland.
Perhaps Reykjavik’s other most famous landmark, Baejarins Beztu Pylsur, also known as “a hotdog stand.” There was a line half a block long.
While I found Icelandic hotdogs to be very tasty with their crunchy fried onions, the two sauces on top, sweet mustard and remoulade were both too sweet for me. I much prefer French’s Yellow.
Not sure what to say about this museum beyond what can be said in the photo. I read it is one of the more expensive museums in Reykjavik, though I did not visit.
The beautiful Harpa Concert Hall. There was a concert series featuring the musical artist Björk scheduled while I was there, but had to be postponed due to COVID crowd size restrictions.
I’ve wanted to visit Iceland since my early days as a travel agent, when Icelandair began offering four night familiarization trips, just enough time to tour Reykjavik and have a soak in the Blue Lagoon. But something always seemed to get in the way. I’ve maintained a “Top Five” list of places I want to visit since I was 18 years old. When one country comes off the list, another takes its place. Iceland has been on that list for far too long.
My plan is to spend two nights exploring the Reykjavik area. Before COVID cases went on the increase, I booked a private room at the Kex Hostel, located right in town along the waterfront. It’s well known not only for its central location, but also for their good value happy hours in their bar area. But with COVID cases on the rise, that’s out now. My room is nonrefundable, otherwise I would have switched to something more remote with less exposure risk. So when not out exploring, I’ll bypass the bar with the beers and hole up in my private room, just me and my Lysol wipes.
After two nights, I will return to the airport and pick up a camper van rental from CampEasy, and head out to follow the Ring Road for the remainder of my trip.
The Sun Voyager, iconic stainless steel sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, located along the waterfront, just across the street from my hotel. It’s described as a dreamboat, or an ode to the Sun, intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom.
My private room in the Kex Hostel. Rate $98 per night for room with a shared bath. Yes, Iceland is expensive.
Lots of lively color in the downtown area, which gives it a very cheery vibe.
Braud & Co., best bakery ever! They are known for their cinnamon rolls, but I loved their Pistachio Roll. Great breakfast stop!
Skólavörðustígur Street, aka Reykjavik Rainbow Street, meant as a sign of joy and support for diversity.
There are a lot of lively outdoor eating and drinking establishments along this street, at least while the weather is so nice!
The first thing you read about Iceland is, “It’s expensive!” So I packed a separate small carry on with a few staples like peanut butter, coffee supplies, instant oatmeal, dried fruits and nuts, and a ziploc full of scarfed condiment packets; mayo, mustard, soy sauce, sriracha, grated Parmesan packets left over from my latest pizza order. And a couple of “freeze dried” meals such as Pad Thai, Minestrone soup, and Baked Potato Soup. I might be eating like a college student, but at least I won’t go broke or hungry!
My first impressions of Reykjavik are that it’s a more quaint and charming than I anticipated. Reports I read encouraged minimal time spent in the city, so I had low expectations. But I find it very walkable, with interesting venues and beautiful views along the waterfront.
Certainly, the weather has a lot to do with that. I was prepared with multiple layers of fleece, down, and SmartWool, hats, gloves, wool buff, headbands, thermals, etc. Instead, I could be wearing shorts, at least while the sun is out. And in the Land of the Midnight Sun, the sun is out most of the time! Two months off the solstice, complete darkness doesn’t descend until midnight, and it starts getting light again around 4:00am. With such an easy infrastructure, so many beautiful things to see and so much daylight to see them, it will be a challenge for me to pace myself.
Another very pleasant area is to stroll the wharf area.
There are some good seafood restaurants down in this area. This one is Sægreifinn, or Sea Baron, recommended by my cousin.
Sægreifinn is known for their fresh seafood kebabs and lobster soup, which really hit the spot on a cool evening!
The restaurant was a bit too close for my COVID paranoia, so I took mine to go and enjoyed it on the picnic area by the water.
A great place to wander before or after a seafood dinner.
Iceland is also known for their ice cream. One flavor in particular is a huge hit, Rye bread ice cream. Sounds terrible, but tastes divine!
One of the many things that has made a good “first impression” is Iceland’s use of technology. They are almost a cash-less society, as everything from hotels and transportation to public restrooms has a “tap pad” for credit cards. It’s quick, efficient, and one never has to surrender their credit card into the hands of a merchant.
I also find their public bus system to be incredibly easy and efficient. I downloaded the “strato” app on my phone, and am able to plan my route, check schedules, get live updates on location of the bus, and buy a ticket (even with Senior discount!) all by using my smartphone. Again, completely “contactless.”
I hopped the public bus for a ride out to Grótta Island, a nature reserve on the tip of the Seltjarnarnes Peninsula just outside of Reykjavík. Designated as a nature reserve in 1974, it is known for abundant birdlife.
But of course, there is another reason I am going there aside from the birdlife…
Only accessible at low tide, I had to consult the tide tables to time my visit to Grotta Lighthouse. A lighthouse was originally built in this spot in 1897, but the current one has been here since 1947. I would soon discover that most Icelandic lighthouses are square or rectangular concrete block buildings painted orange, which made this one all the more beautiful.
Old cod fish drying racks make me think of Newfoundland.
IMMIGRANT SONG
We come from the land of the ice and snow
From the midnight sun, where the hot springs flow
The hammer of the gods will drive our ships to new land
To fight the horde and sing, and cry
Valhalla, I am coming
On we sweep with with threshing oar
Our only goal will be the western shore
Aaah! Ah!
Aaah! Ah!
We come from the land of the ice and snow
From the midnight sun, where the hot springs flow
How soft your fields, so green
Can whisper tales of gore
Of how we calmed the tides of war
We are your overlords
On we sweep with threshing oar
Our only goal will be the western shore
So now you’d better stop and rebuild all your ruins
For peace and trust can win the day, despite of all your losing
~Led Zeppelin, lyrics by Robert Plant/Jimmy Page
Little known tip, when you stop for gas either at a Olis or N1 gas station, before you pump, walk inside and ask for a loyalty card. They may claim to be out of supply, so ask every time you stop for gas, some gas stations have them, others don’t. I’m so excited for you! Despite the hardships (climate and expenses) it was a wonderful experience!
Stay safe and enjoy! Iceland is on our list so I am interested in your camping experiences there.
Oh please take interior photos of the camper rental. I am so curious about them. I’m glad you picked Iceland, I’ve wanted to see it, but things just get in the way.
So happy for you!
Oh my. This is so dang exciting!! Can’t wait to see more. Love the color, and the detail that you are including. Looking forward as are others to the details of your van rental and how camping goes for you. Such fun!
Last week was a Led Zep tribute band, but they did not perform our ‘ear worm’. Wish they had, very appropriate now.
Have never been, nor plan to be in Iceland. Great photos and writeup on your adventure. Any ‘ice’ in Iceland ???
Nothing like living on the cusp of the Atlantic crust for spectacular landscapes and adventures. Looking forward to looking at the things you see! And reading your impressions….
(Met my first Icelander when I was 25 in 1970 in NYC. Much to my surprise, she looked much like me (from Texas) – brown eyed and brown haired and 5’10”. I had anticipated a blonde Nordic type. Genes are funny things. I do love their names.)
Interesting place and my daughter thoroughly enjoyed her visit there. I know a couple of cyclists who have gone there and cycle camped. Apparently that was hard going.
Beautiful scenery for sure! Our next big adventure will take us to Newfoundland, I will have to go back and read your posts!
Valhalla indeed! Looks like this is going to be a fabulous place to explore.
So wonderful to seeing you posting again. Even better that you are traveling. Glad you are finally going to cross Iceland off the list. Hopefully you will see the Northern lights a few times. Sorry to read about the hail damage, last thing you needed. I get you inner urge to get out and travel and I commend you for it. I am claustrophobic and travelling in a plane is difficult in normal times even with a glass of wine or two under my belt. There is no way I could travel wearing a mask. Until Biden opens the border to Canada we continue to be trapped. Not sure that I have a second Canadian winter in me.
What an exciting adventure! Glad you are checking another spot off your list. That Lutheran church is amazing. Wow! Love all the colorful buildings. Makes one smile. Definitely not the best room for $98 but, hey, it is Iceland after all. Enjoy!!! Love seeing places through your eyes.
Glad you made it to Seabaron! Wasn’t the lobster soup divine? Did you go inside Hallgrimskirkja and see that amazing organ? We lucked out when a young man was playing it.
And how can we be related and you not visit the penis museum?! 🙂 It is a sight to see!
OK gotta read your next post now
This made me laugh out loud! Because my side of the Anthony family came with an over abundance of “tight-wad” genes, that’s why! Our favorite family catch phrase from an old Aunt on Mom’s side is “I’ll not pay it!” LOL!
What a delight! From Plant’s words to yours; I don’t even mind the ear-worm as I meander through this post…ahhhhhhhhh ahh!! That hot dog looks smashing; I would love the sweeter topping, for sure. Being a frugal McDougal myself I’d probably forego the foreskin to not wander around the museum. I mean, once you’ve seen one… 🙂 Daaaaang! 98 bucks for a hostel room? I am way behind the times with that. Love the tip about bringing food along when traveling to expensive places. As the world’s worst trip planner I am adding that one to my “art of travel” journal, much of which is filled with your thoughts on travel in general. I am salivating for more of Iceland, so onward I plunge…
Yeah, but it was a PRIVATE hostel room. 😉 Still, that’s about $50 over my usual budget!
So good to see you back in my comment box, my friend.