The poor blog is so far behind, I have lost the will to get it caught up. I visited 10 different countries between the months of August and November, and saw so many wonderful places that I don’t want to forget any of them. So one day, I hope to get my mojo back. Meanwhile, there is one that keeps nagging at me…the tenth country on my itinerary…Ukraine.
I am sickened by what is happening in Ukraine right now. Imagine the horror these poor people are undergoing, having to flee their homes in fear. Worse yet, having to leave their husbands, boyfriends, and sons behind to fight a senseless war to defend themselves and their homeland against a power-hungry thug gone mad. It’s no doubt terrifying. I think back to my own childhood, and I can still remember the practice drills of crawling under our desks during the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis. Imagine what trauma those memories would hold if there had been bombs and bullets involved…bombs so destructive they are banned by 110 countries.
But there’s little we as onlookers can do to help. There are the usual worthy recipients of donations such as the Red Cross and the High Commission for Refugees. If you want to help, but are not sure where to contribute, CNN has compiled a list here. But also smaller causes such as Kviv Independent and José Andrés World Central Kitchen which I have personally supported. Otherwise, posting on Facebook or changing my profile picture feels like “slactivism,” (taking a stand on social media, but doing nothing to support the cause in real life.) Still, the desire to share my brief encounter with Ukrainian people on my own tiny corner of the internet brings me back to the blog…
I visited Lviv, Ukraine on All Saints Day weekend, the last weekend of October this past fall via train from Krakow, Poland. I had been traveling throughout the European Union since August, and was running out of days on the 90 day visa necessary to visit within the Schengen Zone (the majority of the European Union countries.) I needed to leave the EU to stop the clock, as I was not yet ready to leave the continent.
I was having dinner with a former colleague and his partner in Estonia, when the topic came up of “What’s your favorite European city?” My response was “Paris!” but then I was accused of being a cliché. 😉 One of our friends began to talk about Lviv, Ukraine, just 43 miles from the Polish border. He said it was a UNESCO World Heritage site, and what “Old World Europe” used to be.
Since I was headed for Poland anyway, I decided I would take a side trip to Lviv with the intent on doing a bit of reconnaissance to see if it was a place I would like to stay put for a few days. After all, every day outside the Schengen Zone was one day longer I could stay in Europe.’
It’s not far from Krakow to Lviv, however getting there is a bit of a challenge. The two rail lines are different gauge, and if you take the train all the way through, one must wait while the trains under-carriages are switched out, which can take eight hours. By changing trains in Przemyśl, Poland near the border (where refugees are currently seeking safe shelter and Chef José Andrés is helping feed the masses) it only takes about four hours.
I only stayed three days in Lviv. By this time, the COVID Delta variant was surging, and I was starting to feel like I was pressing my luck. I had become accustomed to vaccination certificates being required to enter restaurants and events, but this check was not in place in Lviv, nor was mask compliance mandated. Though I found the city to be beautiful, I was becoming weary of worrying about the virus, even taking to holding my breath as I met passersby on the street. As the scale tipped from pleasure to paranoia, I decided to return to Poland where the mandates were more heavily enforced.
I feel compelled to share some photos of Lviv, now one of the main escape routes for refugees fleeing from Ukraine. While I typically strive to capture pictures without people passing through, I now look at these photos again after the Russian invasion, and it’s the people I see. Innocent people, going about their normal lives, celebrating a three day weekend marking All Saints Day, drinking, laughing, and enjoying the company of friends.
The beautiful Lviv train station where CNN’s Erin Burnett stood broadcasting was the exact spot where I waited for my brief, air conditioned train ride back to Poland. News footage now shows 10 children wedged into a single berth where I, being the privileged American that I am, booked a First Class seat, just for “a little extra room” just four short months ago.
It’s difficult to imagine what these people are going through now. Even more difficult to imagine what their future holds at the hands of one man gone so mad as to put the whole of humanity on alert…
“No one in the world will forgive you for the murder of peaceful Ukrainian people. This is Ukraine. This is Europe. This is the year 2022” ~ President Volodymyr Zelensky
Thank you for sharing your adventure in this beautiful historic city, especially at a time when destruction is all around it. The whole situation is heartbreaking.
Glad you were able to be there before this catasrophe. We just donated to Jose Andres. Thank you for the push!
Thank you for this beautiful post. Jose Andres is my favorite also. He is a true hero for what he does. I’m devastated for the people of Ukraine . I’m so glad you were able to be there before this terrible act of war was perpetrated by a mad man.
Suzanne, thank you for sharing this. And thank you for the suggestions for donations. I had no idea of the beauty and can’t help but wonder how much could be destroyed. My heart goes out to these people.
Thank you for sharing.
Hi Suzanne. Apropos of nothing, I had the urge to catch up and see that your seats were in an upright position. Thanks for the post.
It was all so beautiful. It is all so sad.
Thank you, what a beautiful place!!
What an outrage, Putin’s War, and that our hands are tied. But the world has eyes, and we will neither forget or forgive this ego bound bastard. Your beautiful photos only deepens our pain…
Very glad to hear from you again, as always a beautiful post. I believe that so many over the world share your sentiments and concerns. As a “Child of the 60’s” I believed that peaceful protest coupled with the conviction of a generation could change the world. So far I’ve been proven woefully wrong. One thing is certain though- showing us the beauty of the world and courage of people who care is still so important. It must be very painful to have so recently visited places that may no longer exist. Thank You for sharing that!
Suzanne, all weekI have been listening to a guy in Lviv as he has called into one of our Chicago radio stations to report on what he is experiencing. He is a reporter that got stuck in Lviv during Covid and loved it so much, he has stayed there. Here is his website with links to his different social media accounts. He talks about what a beautiful city it is and loves the people there. https://www.lvivlab.com
Breathtakingly beautiful and hard to believe that any of it could be destroyed for no reason at all!
I have to limit my watching all of this play out so sadly on TV. Couldn’t sleep for a few days. My heart goes out to the people of Ukraine. How brave and resourceful they are.
Have been wondering where YOU are and if you ARE still in Mexico.
Send me a message when you can. I would love to know where
you ended up!
It’s heartbreaking. That one person can cause this misery and destruction is just insane. I wish we had gone there before this.
I am enraged and heartbroken all at the same time. To think that one sick and twisted individual is responsible for so much misery and destruction for no reason is too much for me to understand. You are fortunate to have had the opportunity to see the beauty of Lviv before that bastard destroyed it. Take care of yourself wherever you are
So sad to see what is going on over there. What a beautiful country. You really captured the beauty of Lviv with your descriptions and photos.
As heartbreaking as it is to watch the news unfold on our screens, for you to have just recently seen this beautiful old city must be especially depressing. Putin is a monster. It is appalling that this is happening in 2022, surely the world should have learned more from WWII…
Thanks for sharing your photos of this beautiful city. I’m so glad you were able to visit prior to this disaster. I hope the fighting doesn’t get to Lviv. One can rebuild but not replace the structure of old. We are following extra closely since my parents worked in Ukraine off and on for a few years while working with USAid. They lived in Kharkiv and still have friends there (Who are now trying to get to the Polish border to meet their daughter). Our son even went to visit while they were there and recognized several spots shown on the news. Such a shocking and sad situation. I feel like I am watching a WWII movie.
Thank you Suzanne for a much needed “break”, such peace & beauty!
So grateful that you travel, write, photograph and share.
Well told and very timely. Thanks for this.
This is so well written as all your posts, but more touching given the horror playing out in Ukraine right now. Thank you for sharing all the images of Lviv.
This is incredible, Suzanne .. I have been away from the blog world for way too long. I had no idea you were traveling all over the globe! AND this beautiful beautiful City, Lviv.
It is so heartbreaking what that madman is doing. Surely, Surely, he will be stopped soon. I am soooo proud of Zelensky and the Ukrainian people for standing their ground! What a brave brave people. Heroic.
Maybe you are at the spot for a TIME WARP?!!!!
First a step to the left,
Then a step to the right!
Thats a JUMP to the left!
Then a JUMP to the right!
Sorry If you warped to an alternate universe!
Suzanne, I just checked back to make sure I had not missed one of your posts. I do miss them and yet, I know that it’s a lot of work. Your pictures and words allow me to view and visit an amazing world while I sit at my computer. I hope you will write again , for yourself.
Hi, Pat. Thank you so much for your kind comment! I am in Scotland now, where beauty abounds! I feel inspired to blog about it, but there is so little time, as I am moving from place to place trying to “see it all.” But I am going to try to get started again soon, as there is so much to share here!
Thanks again for the nice note,
Soon it will be one year since your last post. Please start posting again and let this last year be your time of rest and start anew. No need to explain just an “I’m back” will do – we would all welcome you as you have been missed.
Sandy, you can’t imagine how much your lovely comment brightened an otherwise gray and dismal day! Thank you kindly!
I do miss the blog. It’s not a matter of not having anything to say, it’s more a matter of having too much to say that I have become overwhelmed, as the past year had a staggering amount of “hills and valleys.” I miss writing about the places and experiences I want to share, but I also miss my lovely friends in the comment section. I’ll get going again one of these days soon! Thanks for saying “hello.”
I just stopped by to check on you, it’s been a rough few years. Good to know you’re still in the comments. Take Care of you.