Once again I find myself overwhelmed at the kindness in my comment box. Thank you all for your words of comfort extended to my family during these difficult days back on the farm.
I often take stock of the incredible places in which I find myself, and the bonus of like-minded community that I am so fortunate to have found as a result of this blog. Never could I have imagined the network of friends that would come as a result, particularly for a self-proclaimed “loner” like me. It truly is an online example of Six Degrees of Separation, as one group of friends links to yet another, until one day you look around and realize your entire community is made up of fellow bloggers or blog followers.
I tease Box Canyon Mark about my having “stolen” my friends from his Box Canyon Blog. As one of the first blogs I began following long before I even had an RV, the BCB has afforded me the opportunity to meet many of Mark and Bobbie’s friends featured in his posts and comments section. Following blogs and sharing comments creates common ground and kinship among strangers across the country with which you would otherwise not likely cross paths.
And thus I find myself, standing up in the back seat of a Jeep Rubicon like an ill mannered 12 year old, grinning ear to ear as I careen down (to quote BC Mark,) “the infamous Black Bear Pass road, the gnarliest, scariest, most dangerous white knuckle Jeep road in Colorado.”
“Is it too far to walk back??”
During my two months on the Texas farm following the death of my brother, I receive a very kind, touching email from Mindy, a frequent follower of Mark’s blog. I recognize the name from the BCB comments section. I recall that Mindy and husband Chris have been referred to in previous posts as “Salt of the earth farmers from Illinois.” Mindy writes to offer her condolences, as she has suffered a similar sudden loss in the last year.
Big Bad Black Bear
Our Jeeping Threesome; Chris and Mindy (IL,) Wes and Janelle (TX,) and Bobby (CO)
John Q, Mindy and me atop Black Bear Pass, elev 12,840 ft.
Mindy and Chris have vacationed in Ouray for the past nine years. They are “Jeepers” and return each year around the same time to meet up with other Jeeping friends to tour the infamous 4WD roads atop the peaks and passes of the San Juan mountain range. Mindy has no idea of my plans to meet up with “the gang,” so it is serendipitous to learn we will both be in Ouray at the same time. We agree to meet up to share a beer or two.
Chris and Mindy graciously offer up the back seat of their Jeep to all of us who have converged in Mark and Bobbie’s backyard wildflower garden. Most among the gang prefer their death-defying adventures with both feet firmly planted on the ground, so initially, I am the only taker. Typically, I wouldn’t have the intestinal fortitude either, but my brother’s untimely departure at the young age of 53 has left me with a little more verve than usual.
John Q on the right, checking out future hiking routes.
I like Chris’ shirt. “4 Wheel Low – Gets Me High”
Mindy offers two options; We can go the more gentle route up Imogene Pass and back down Lost Dollar. This will offer some nice wildflowers, waterfalls, and views of aspens. Or, the second choice is to go up Black Bear Pass and return via Imogene. But Mindy cautions “Black Bear has some scary places as you come down into Telluride, if steep shelf roads and heights are a problem.”
Well, yes, in fact, “steep shelf roads” have historically been a problem. But I have heard much about the notorious Black Bear Pass. I am not going to let a little thing like nausea, sweaty palms and white knuckles stand in the way of experiencing Colorado’s finest! Besides, Chris is a very confident and competent driver. Otherwise, I know Mindy wouldn’t be riding with him. 😉
At the last minute, John Q (another friend from the Box Canyon blog!) decides he will also come along, giving wife Joalenn a welcomed day off from extreme hiking, scaling mountains, fording streams, and chasing wildflowers.
We will be traveling with two other Jeeps today, as Chris explains this not only adds to the fun factor, but also the safety of redundancy. I get a better understanding of this later, as 2-way radios help guide the other jeeps around narrow switchbacks tighter than the teeth in a zipper. I have a chuckle when I see the window sticker on one of the Jeeps, “Get in. Sit down. Shut up. Hold on.”
Beautiful blue lake on the backside of Black Bear.
We head out of Ouray via the Million Dollar Highway just like the thousands of other day trippers, following the smooth, ribbon-like curves of the road, through gorgeous canyons overlooking forests of fir and spruce below. But once we leave the pavement, the genie comes out of the bottle. I am thrilled when Chris tells us he will be stopping as soon as we turn off the road to drop the top. Next, Mindy tells John and me, “You will enjoy the view a lot more if you stand up. No, really! Stand up! In the seats! It’s okay!” John Q. jumps up right away, but it takes me a bit longer to overcome my upbringing that it is bad manners to put one’s feet on the furniture. I can hear my Mother’s voice, “A lady does not put her feet in the seat.” Particularly when that “lady” is 60 years old! 😉
John and I hang on to the roll bar, flex our knees to absorb the bumps and shocks, and use our backsides to brace ourselves against the roof as Chris takes on the task of guiding us up over the pass. I can’t tell if my legs are shaking from the adrenalin of the ride, or from the precarious balancing act I am doing to keep myself inside the Jeep. I tell John Q., “Hey, I think we should name this sport ‘Jeep Surfing!”
John Q, Jeep Surfing
Bobby and Wes, coming up “The Shortcut.”
The barren, windswept Black Bear Pass, elevation 12,840 ft reminds me a little of the desolate Tibetan Plateau. Three hundred sixty degrees of open skies, the cold crisp thin air punctuated by dramatic dashes of mountain peaks and dots of snow pack.
Yes, we are driving across this waterfall!
Not a wide margin for error here.
It’s all fun and games until we point down toward Telluride (“To-Hell-You-Ride?”) This part of the road is one way, thankfully. Mindy warns me that the section of road ahead called “The Steps” will be the scariest part, and to prepare for the “pucker factor.” “We will come around a corner along the stream, before we get to the waterfall. It will look like the road just disappears. Drops off the cliff. But never fear, it will reappear!” I am impressed at what a smooth ride the Rubicon is over this “Steps” section, a steep descent down rough boulders and ruts that resemble bleachers in a prehistoric sports arena. Standing up on the back seat, leaning back while holding on to the roll bar reminds me of lifting up in the saddle as a horse’s weight shifts from one leg to the other, slowly ambling down the mountain.
Not the only place where the road disappears…
Coming down into “To Hell You Ride” (Telluride)
Soon, we come to a traffic jam on the switchbacks, as we are behind a group of what appears to be novices. Someone gets out on each turn to guide each vehicle around as they back up and reposition to make the sharp corners. Everyone is shocked to see a Geo Tracker among the group of Jeepers, but they make a respectable finish!
Heading down the switchbacks after the Steps
Goodbye Bobby, Hello Wes!
We roll through Telluride with a pit stop at the City Park, hang a right, and we are on our way back up again, this time over Imogene Pass, elevation 13,114 ft. After a roadside picnic, we pass through Tomboy Ghost Town, beyond Imogene Pass to the breathtaking overlook for 360 degree majestic views.
Smuggler-Union Power Plant over Bridal Veil Falls
Note same Bridal Veil Falls gives perspective to switchbacks in lower right.
Chris and Mindy, Bridal Veil Falls
The road down from Imogene is a popular drive during wildflower season, and I joke that standing up in the Jeep through the fields of flowers, I feel like I am riding in the Rose Parade! It’s a quick trip back down Camp Bird Mine Road into Ouray, and my head is spinning from the beauty in our wake.
Climbing out of Telluride
Remains of Tomboy Mine, once home to 900, now a ghost town.
I am grateful to Chris and Mindy for inviting me on this fun adventure, and sharing their love of Jeeping. Will I be trading my rucksack for a Rubicon anytime soon? Nope, I still prefer my touring on the treads beneath my toes. But it sure was a fun day!
Snow pack approaching Imogene Pass
View from imogene Pass
(Note: Twice per year, the one way direction over Black Bear Pass is reversed. Chris and Mindy will return for the brave, nerve shattering experience of climbing the Steps out of Telluride on a rainy Sunday morning, and live to tell about it!)
Glorious view of Red Mountains from Overlook near Imogene Pass
Ptarmigan Lake — Note tiny cabin along shoreline.
Wonderful photos! It was as if I were with you!
Thank you for the nice compliment, Christine!
What a rush but …. yikes!
Kim, trust me, the adrenalin was better than Mexican made. 😉
Can’t type, fingers slipping off the keys, hands sweaty, heart pounding…but wait, I’m not in the jeep – you are!!! Wonderful photos.
Linda, you make me laugh. Thanks for always coming along for the ride.
I’ve done that ride in both a jeep and mountain bike, it is a real gas on either.
My wife and I are getting ready to pack up the motorhome and get back out west so we can leave the Maine winters behind us.
Thanks for the wakeup
Dick
Dick — Hats and helmets off to you for doing that road on a mountain bike. I would not have any brakes left long before I got to the Steps!
A brilliant adventure!!! You sure take big bites out of Life, Suzanne.
PS: That cabin by Ptarmigan Lake is the one in my painting 🙂 We can hike there from the other side when you reacclimatize 🙂
BCB Mark
BC Mark — Think Bobbie will show any mercy on a renewed flat-lander and a hernia patient? 😉
What a fun day that was! I will always remember you and John standing on the seats while riding down the scary switchbacks into Telluride. Thanks for the wonderful pictures and memories. Hopefully we will meet up again this coming year!
Mindy and Chris — Thanks again for showing me such a wonderful time, and a part of Colorado I would have never otherwise seen were it not for your generosity.
“Get in. Sit down. Shut up. Hold on.”
I sure wouldn’t be riding in that Jeep!
So now I understand why you and John had sore backs the next day;-)
Gayle, you were the standard of measure on these roads. “It’s not a jeep ride until Gayle gets out and walks!!” 😉
You are one of the bravest people I know! I get sweaty palms just reading your words, but it helps to know ahead of time that you have survived the ordeal – and enoyed it! You really know how to scrape the best out of every moment of life.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Thanks, Judie — Chris and Mindy were cool, calm, and collected all the way down, so I felt comfortable “letting go and enjoying the ride.”
What an incredible opportunity! The Internet is quite the conduit to friendship!
Lisa — it is indeed, for without it, I would never have found myself in such great company in a Tiki Bar in Portland!
We did Imogene Pass in a rented jeep many years ago and when we went back into town to get some instructions on going up the Black Bear Pass, the guy behind the counter said, “Not in my jeep you’re not!”. So it was wonderful to take the ride through your eyes Suzanne. Fabulous scenery!
Thanks, LuAnn — Your “behind the counter” story makes me laugh. Chris and Mindy told us rentals weren’t allowed on the one way section, but the shocking part for me was that they actually recommended Imogene to first time Jeepers!
susan very goooood blog i enjoyed you guys comeing along for a fun and a very long and beautiful lovey day …… come along any time we can show you more………………….bobbie
Thanks, Bobbie — And thanks for letting a couple of tourists tag a long. It was great fun following you guys around the switchbacks!
So glad you went on the Jeep tour! It is so much fun taking these roads:) You got some gorgoeus photos. I long for those far beautiful views again real soon!! That photo of the Red Mountains is my favorite:) Absolutely beautiful:) Jeep surfing…I like it!! Good one:)
Pam, those far beautiful views are sure infectious, aren’t they? I fear we are all spoiled for life by those red rocks and red mountains!
As I mentioned in an earlier post, we’ll be heading out to Ouray at the end of this month. Just yesterday, I came across a map in our collection of “stuff” entitled Jeep Trails of the San Juans. In looking at it, I was reminded that I had drawn ink lines over the Jeep trails we had completed, some more than once in different years. I was amazed at the sheer number of different trails we have completed…including Black Bear. “Bleachers in a prehistoric sports arena” indeed.
Thanks for the comment, Ed. I am not sure where I will be when you guys come through, but if I am anywhere near Ouray, I will surely say “hello.”
What an incredible experience! Your photos are simply amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for following along, Bobbie. I am glad you liked the photos.
Absolutely incredible post! I felt like I was there on ” switchback tighter than the teeth on a zipper”. Your words painted fabulous pictures and the photos framed the “pictures” beautifully. Thank you so much for sharing.
Hi, Susan — Thank you for the nice compliment. Man, those switchbacks were something! Even in the short wheel base, we had to back up to make the corners!
Nice post!. Makes we make to do that ride.
Thanks, J. Dawg. I appreciate the comment, as well as the previous one sharing your “ride your own ride” story. I liked that. Good advice all around.
What a blast riding the Jeep over Black Bear Pass and taking “the steps” into Telluride. Chris’s professional Jeep driving skills on the rough and narrow roads made it easy to relax and just enjoy the view. At times, with you and Mindy laughing I felt like I was on a roller coaster ride at Six Flags. Great photos of jeep roads and surrounding peaks.
Hi, John Q. It was like a roller coaster, wasn’t it? I laughed at myself trying to walk a straight line once I got out of the jeep. Thanks for coming along on our Jeep Surfing to share the laughs.
WHAT fun and a test of trust in your driver! My Dad would have LOVED that and my Mom and I talk often about the “drives” he used to take us on in the old Willy Jeep.
Sherry — I saw a couple of “Willys” on this ride, one beautiful restored with Antique Car plates. Very cool!
Ah, finally a trip that we can take.
Thanks,
It is awesome and beautiful, hope that my outback can turn the corners.
Allen and Deede — The big challenge on this road was the high ground clearance. Lots of “bouldering” required. Maybe a rental is in order. 😉
‘I am not going to let a little thing like nausea, sweaty palms and white knuckles stand in the way of experiencing Colorado’s finest!’ I hope to adopt that attitude, I’ve always freaked out on narrow roads with steep drop-offs. Sweaty palms and all, whether I’m driving or someone else is. Not sure I’ll get to the point of going on an adventure similar to yours…but I am inspired.
Thanks for the vicarious joyride!
Frederika — I was a little surprised to hear the words “I’d love to!” come out of my mouth as well. But I also knew it was an opportunity that I wouldn’t likely get again. And the fact that Chris and Mindy had driven this road so many times made me feel more comfortable. I trust you and Pete are well…
Wow, what an exciting adventure. At 13,000′ I’d have rather ridden than walk. Yet I’ll bet the knees felt every bump along the way. Such spectacular scenery. That shot of the switchbacks with Bridal Veil Falls is over the top.
Thanks, Gaelyn — I agree, I didn’t realize the magnitude of the switchbacks until I saw them in perspective next to that giant waterfall!