After saying my reluctant “goodbyes” in Ouray, I decide to make Telluride my next stop for several reasons, not the least of which is a good excuse to chicken out of driving the Million Dollar Highway. I have been up and down the road a dozen times now as far south as Molas Lake in one of the gang’s Suburus, and it doesn’t intimidate me. However, it’s one thing to ride in the back seat of a quiet, smooth riding, curve hugging automobile. It’s another thing to maneuver a five ton vehicle that sways like a drunken elephant, towing a car behind. If I were going south to north, it would not be near as nerve-racking. But most of the southbound route is on the outer lane with sheer drop-offs and no guard rails…not that they would do much good anyway! So by visiting Telluride, I have a face-saving excuse to “go around.”
It’s also a good place to ease back into solo life. Being in Telluride is a little mini-version of Manhattan. Even though I am alone, there’s no place to feel that way, as the streets are overflowing with the last vestiges of summer vacations.
But the main reason I wanted to visit Telluride was for ski reconnaissance. I have been an “annual skier” ever since I was 20 years old, when the whole family ended up in Vail over New Year’s Eve, ’74 on one of my Dad’s infamous spontaneous road trips. We found ourselves completely unprepared in the middle of Vail Village with only our jeans and wool coats, up from the farm in the middle of a holiday celebration that included Gerald Ford and John Denver. The only reason we found a place to stay was because our arrival was preceded by a blizzard that canceled flights, but the snowy mountain passes were problem for the 1966 Impala tank, “Old Blue.” Mom bought Scotchguard to coat our jeans, and Dad bought us lessons down the bunny slopes, after only one day of which I was hooked on “the thrill of the downhill!” I skied just about every year after that, even in the Northeast, until relocation to Atlanta made the slopes no longer geographically affordable.
Skiing was also the main interest shared with my former husband, Scott. We went every year, sometimes twice a year. As we would begin the planning process, Telluride was always on the list of potential places, but got ruled out year after year as being “too difficult.” The mountain is almost 50% “Black Diamond,” and we were your basic Intermediate, boring blue skiers. The winter after our divorce was final, Scott begged me to go skiing with him one last time, because he had no friends that skied. I reluctantly agreed, and woke up in a cold sweat dreaming that the divorce had only been a dream, and we were still married. A memory that haunts me 20 years later.
So I thought maybe I might like to try skiing again, and Telluride might be a fitting place come winter. But I am not sure the “snooty factor” equals the quality and quantity of ski runs. I would expect Aspen with its celebrity sighting reputation to be snooty. Or Vail with its unparalleled back bowls. But a tiny little mining town? I am not sure her attitude is warranted, from what I saw in her summer dress. I was shocked out of my Salomons to learn a regular season lift ticket now costs $114 a day!
I highly recommend the Town Park Campground, within walking distance of everything. Just a great campground all around, as long as you tend to be on the smaller side. Some resources will tell you there are 40 campsites, but it is important to note, only 10 of those are recommended for RVs, with a maximum length of 30ft. No hook-ups, no dump station, but they have a lower than usual geezer threshold at 59 1/2, so this incredibly convenient location right off the main street in Telluride only cost me $19 per night. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts and river path right next door.
But my favorite part of Telluride by far was the gondola rides. There are two, and I rode them both a couple of times. This is the first FREE transpiration of its kind in the US. It has been in operation since 1996, and since that time, has safely transported over 26 million riders up the mountain at 11 mph. It has a vertical rise of 1,778 feet, and is three miles long, bridging downtown Telluride with the ski resort of Mountain Village in thirteen minutes.
And if all that is not reason enough to visit, well, I had two outstanding meals here, the “Railjam” pizza from High Pie, thin artesian crust with onion jam, pears and prosciutto, paired with a velvety smooth Left Hand Brewery Black Jack Porter. An equally delectable dining establishment is Smuggler’s Brewery with a smorgasbord of brews to match their gourmet burgers. I highly recommend their white truffle, wild mushroom burger topped with bleu cheese, chives, and crispy fried onions. 😉
But if you go, bring your American Express Card, as a Ticket to Ryde in Telluride doesn’t come cheap!
Looks like a great place to explore….however brief. What a funky little town. Will you make it back for skiing?
Hi, Karen — I think if I were to go, I would be back to the Summit area or Utah, as they have greater variety of runs at my skill level.
Mmmmm, those meals looked delish…you’re making me hungry!
Telluride reminded me of Park City with its serious snooty factor. Pretty, but not for me.
Lisa, I agree, but at least Park City seems to have earned its “snooty factor” with Sundance nearby. Telluride, I didn’t see it…
Suzanne:
If you really want to ski, you may want to look at the Copper Mountain Four Pass for (a total of) $159. You have to buy it in person (@ Copper Mountain) and I’m pretty sure it won’t matter whether or not you’re domiciled in CO. For me, snow-wise and especially Blue terrain-wise, Copper is the best!
Might be worth a day trip back up …
Good deal: http://www.coppercolorado.com/winter/plan_and_buy/season_passes/fourpack/index.html
Wow, that is indeed a great deal! I have skied Copper Mountain in the past when we used to “Ski the Summit,” and I always loved the atmosphere there. Thanks for the great tip!
Well, well, someone else has vivid dreams…..ha ha
It is a beautiful place, for sure but I had to look twice at the price of the lift ticket.
When I came upon the burger photo it suddenly enlarged and I actually jumped back…but looked so good….
Thanks for the photos from the gondola.
“Rocky mountain High” for sure.
Linda, that cheeseburger enlarged would cause me even more vivid dreams. haha!!
A damn fine report & photos, Suzanne!
$19/night, free gondola trip, and great eats – we’ll give T’ride a more through explore next time we’re headed to Ouray – but it won’t be in ski season!
Thanks, John — You guys would fit nicely in the little Town Park! Just shoot for mid-week, as it is first come, first served. But once in, you can stay for seven days. The location couldn’t be beat!
The Telluride Blues Festival is Sept 17-20. I really wanted to go, but Pat will be working then, so we will be in Houston….ugh.
Thanks for a view of the little town. Looks like it would be a fun weekend.
Well, if I weren’t traveling in the opposite direction already, I would say “Take a bachelorette weekend and meet me there!” It would have been fun!
What a great tour of Telluride! A place we haven’t gotten to yet. Glad you were enjoying your visit. The pizza and the porter looks wonderful, as does that burger:)
Pam, there were some pretty nice looking hikes in the area as well that would have certainly been fun. I just ran out of time, because I had tickets to the Blues Train in Durango that weekend…
That free ski lift ride looks a good way of seeing the landscape and good of them to run in during the off season. Those meals look delicious and a selection of beers to go with them.
Hi, Dave — Yes, I was surprised to learn the gondola runs all year, but I think the nearby Mountain Village would have to close for the summer without it! Plus, it is a popular venue for mountain bikers who want to take the easy route down. 😉
We used to ski a fair amount. But as the lift tickets got more expensive, and the lines got longer, the fun factor moved to the left of the dial. I can’t say that I miss it. Now, of course, equipment and clothing are too much of a storage issue. If Solitude and Brighton in Utah have snow, they’re pretty good. We honeymooned there, ok that was a long time ago, who knows what has happened up there? But Telluride is extremely cute.
I stopped missing it too, Allison, but something about seeing those lifts and gondolas makes me want to do it again!
Stunning, thank you for sharing.
May your travels be on the wings of God’s Angels
Till next time
Cyndi & Budhi
OUR BLOG: http://newbeginningswiththebudhis.blogspot.com/
OUR YOUTUBE: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRcN6tAgp25EryngtCSX7wQ
Thanks for the good wishes, Cyndi
Are you still in Telluride? Check this out! I’m pretty sure it’s above my abilities. Perhaps you would enjoy it.
http://www.vanvagabond.com/my-first-via-ferrata-telluride-colorado/
uuuuhhh, what part of “a dizzying traverse across a mountainside with nothing but an iron cable affixed to the rock to keep me from falling hundreds of feet” belongs in the same sentence with “enjoy?” Remember who turned around on the Hidden Canyon hike. 😉
I know! I read that and wondered about how that is fun. People are very interesting.
The free gondola is definitely the best part of Telluride. In such a high priced town I would have expected to pay $20 to ride it.
Okay, so what exactly were those girls doing on the stair railing??
I’m no longer into skiing or cold, although it all looks gorgeous. But then you’ve been enjoying gorgeous in CO all along.