Moab was a mob scene. Overrun with rental RVs and foreign dialects who appear to struggle with our frustrating systems even more than I do, like the annoying recorded voice at the self-checkout line announcing “Unexpected item in the bagging area.” Everywhere I went, there were crowds of tourists attempting to cross off two out of five of Utah’s “Big Five National Parks” in one town. I had to wait in line for everything from grocery shopping to pedestrian stopping. Yet I couldn’t leave. I was a held captive by a rig full of exploding gear.
It seemed like the rental RVs were multiplying in Moab!
Everywhere there was a line, but it was worth the wait to celebrate getting Debbie’s “Geezer Pass!”
Also worth the wait was getting to see Metamorphosis Road’s Hans and Lisa again!
One of the down sides of taking a nine day kayak trip while living out of 100 square feet of living space is that everything must be cleaned, sorted, and neatly packed away before I can move my house. Yes, I could confine it all to one box marked “kayaking” and just shove it in there. But the problem is, it is a cross-functional sport. Camping gear comes from the camping box. Water gear comes from the sailing box. And then there is the vast assortment of food prep gear. It took me three days to get all the fine powdered sand and mud off my gear, get it dried out, sorted, and stowed to go.
Exploring Canyon Rim Recreational Area
One of the many overlooks along the Needles Overlook Road
Exploring the Needles Overlook at sunset.
View from Needles Overlook
I kept thinking I could get organized enough to leave the Slickrock Campground in the town of Moab and move out to a boondocking spot. But one drive down Willow Springs Road told me it would render washing anything an exercise in futility. I counted thirty five rigs parked in the vicinity, with another three barreling down the dusty road while I was counting. There was a bike event taking place, and the road was swarmed with ATVs, mountain bikes, dirt bikes, and RV tow vehicles coming and going. Add to that a 20 mph wind blowing, and it was like being in a red desert sandstorm. Certainly no place to wash anything, in fact, the just the opposite!
I don’t have a Lazy Daze, but still they let me join…from a distance. 😉
Debbie walking Rupert and Elliot, and Gayle walking Sophie, keeping her distance from the boys!
Rain showers brought beautiful snow cover to the nearby mountains.
Sunset on the snow.
So I hunkered down in the Slickrock Campground for three days, washing, drying, folding and stowing, while satisfying all those cravings I had while on the river, like margaritas, ice cream, and cheeseburgers from Milt’s Stop and Eat.
I was also waiting for a planned convergence of the “Red Rocks Gang” who had discussed a meet up in Moab, though I feared my reports of rental RVs, rude tourists, and red sandstorms had caused their enthusiasm to wane. I got the word that they were stopping short of Moab to wait out the weekend. The enthusiastic call from Jim gave promise of an escape, as he reported an “Absolutely spec-F@#ING-tacular boondock spot” 40 miles south of Moab in the Canyon Rim Recreation Area. Grateful for the escape from the Moab mayhem, I moved out to join them for ten quiet, restorative days and nights. We were joined by the Box Canyons mid-stay.
Exploring nearby Anticline Overlook.
The anticline is a convex curve in the earth’s surface.
Although there were no official trails to hike in the area, we still managed to find some incredibly beautiful hikes every day just a couple of miles away, or even by opening the door and walking out to scramble on the red rocks or explore the canyons nearby.
Whenever one hikes off trail, it is inevitable that some crust will be busted. The desert floor is covered with a layer of cryptobiotic soil that is made up of lichen, mosses, and filament strands of nutrients that prevent erosion, and provide a food source for piñon pine and juniper. When crushed underfoot, it makes a loud crunching sound beneath ones boots. I used to love hearing this sound much like I love the sound of lightly packed snow crunching beneath my skis. Until, that is, I learned I was destroying millions of microorganisms with every step. So now walking off trail can sometimes feel like a game of “Don’t Bust the Crust!”
There are ways to minimize impact on the cryptobiotic soil, the most obvious being to stay on the slickrock. Or staying in the well-defined trails of animals, who do their own fine job of minimal busting of the crust. Drains or washes are also a good alternative route, as no soil microorganisms grow there. And when all else fails, walk in one anothers footsteps, which is only like one “bust” instead of five. It reminds me of the games we played as kids, where you would try to see how far you could walk and still stay in the shade….which in Central Texas was never very far!
- Our neighbors, the Pronghorns.
The following photos were all taken “off trail,” proving again that when one can, the best way to explore these beautiful canyonlands is to get out of your car and go “Take a Hike!”
A large alcove near the canyon rim, similar to those inhabited by ancestral Puebloans.
This canyon was just across the road and down a mile from the boondock spot.
My favorite rock for sunset scrambling.
Near the spot where Jim lost is favorite jacket, then found it two days later after a rain and wind storm, earning the hike the name “Lost Jacket Canyon.”
So glad you were able to join us in that beautiful spot!
Thanks again to you and Jim for finding it! It really was just the place I needed to settle for a few days. Miss you already!
That picture of the gang heading over the edge of the canyon with the canyon gaping below them is awesome!
Good to see you once again…next time we should have boots on the ground!
Lisa — Definitely boots on the ground! Given that we have ended up in the same place three times now, I am convinced it’s gotta happen one of these days! Meanwhile, we have shared some pretty darned good meals! (I would have said “beers” if we weren’t in Utah!)
Such fabulous photos, Suzanne, and a great place to be. I have avoided Moab lately because of all those things you mentioned, the ATV’s, dust, people, rental RV’s all that stuff, but that 40 miles south sounds perfect. Needles hikes and all. I only camped in the Needles, but never tracked down the area you mentioned for boondocking. Like that fabulous boondocking site Mark helped us find near Virgin, we will be finding this one someday I hope, and since October in red rock country is my favorite, I hope it is next October.
Sue — the only problem with the Needles Overlook Road is that it was a long way from both places….long to get back to Moab for services, and long to get to the Needles part of the park, as the road where we were was only to the overlook. To get into the park, we had to drive back out to Hwy 191, and then another 35 miles down Hwy 211 to reach the park. If you want to be a little closer to Moab, Jim and Gayle said “Ken’s Lake” was nice…just 10 miles outside of town. And hopefully the madhouse at Willow Springs was only related to that bike demo event, as it was a lovely boondock last year. Hope you get to Red Rock Country next October too, as I know you love it as much as I do!
One more thing. THANK YOU THANK YOU, from a soil scientist who has mapped these desert soils, thank you for educating about the crust busting!!!
Thanks, Sue. I even photographed the soil, but decided that was carrying my “lecture” a bit too far. haha!!!
The scenery out there is just amazing! Everyone says we need to visit Moab, but avoiding hot weather and crowds is an issue. After reading your comment about Debbie, I just realized that I can now get my “old geezer pass” also. I’ll have to get that done!
Mindy, I think of you and Chris now, every time I see a 4WD road! And I think you would love some of the roads around here! The crowds are no worse that those we saw around Ouray, just a whole lot more dust. 😉 Congrats on the right of passage Geezer Pass! I am already looking forward to mine next year!
Glad you got all caught up so you could head off to join the gang:) I love just wandering in the red rocks but I do cringe stepping on any crust!!! Sometimes it can’t be helped. Your photos are killing me!! I don’t get back til March!!
I hope you enjoyed the Chesler Park Loop. Can’t wait for your take. I just love this loop and the amazing scenery. The Joint and all the neat stairs are so cool!
Pam — One Chesler Park Loop hike coming right up! A preview — I liked those “hamburgers” as much as you did! 😉
Those rental RVs are everywhere and best to watch out around them because many drivers don’t have a clue. Moab didn’t really impress me with all the tourists. But everything around Moab is gorgeous. Nice to get and hike off the beaten path, if you can stay off the fragile crytobiotic. Good to see the gang together. Head towards southern UT Monday.
Yes, Gaelyn, I give those guys a wide berth! But the campground in Moab was a revolving door full of them. Each time they pulled in, I would cringe at the window hoping I didn’t lose a bicycle tire off the back of my Tracker! Hope there is an opportunity to catch up with you in another week or so, so I can finally say “Hello” in person!