The next jaunt down Highway 1 is a short one – only a 90 minute bus ride to Loreto. My Moon Guide describes Loreto as “sleepy” and “relatively undiscovered.” I would describe it as “mediocre.” Yes, it was beautiful, clean, new, nicely developed, but it also felt a bit “sanitized.” Somewhat “midwestern” in that it lacked the grittiness of Ensenada, the charm of Mulegé, or the glimmering white beaches of the Bahia. Maybe it was because it reminded me of a “convention town.” There were two organized gatherings taking place while I was there; Baja Bush Pilots, and the Harley Davidson club, complete with booze, buffet tables, and big bands.
The view from my window seat continues to delight me.
My walk from the bus station to the hotel.
Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó, dates back to 1704.
Loreto is known for its watersports, boat trips to neighboring islands, and fishing excursions, but this is a windy time of year, and I don’t really feel like getting beaten up in a bare boat to snorkel in chilly water. In short, after charming Mulege, Loreto has left me a bit cold.
Even the Loreto Lighthouse seems lackluster.
Sea lions in memorium only
Still, I want to give it a chance. Spend some time exploring. But after a walk up and down the pretty little malecon and all the back streets beyond, I am a bit bored. When one is bored, what else is there to do but eat?? 😉 (It’s okay, after walking five straight hours, I have earned it!)
The pretty little malecon, or waterfront path.
Where IS everybody??
Oh….there they are.
Loreto offers several tempting dining options. I read more than one reference that claims Domingo’s has “the best margaritas in town!” This sounds like a challenge that I can’t resist. The problem with margaritas like those at Domingo’s is that one is so good, you want a second. But then you can’t remember why you really shouldn’t have a second!
Dinner at Domingo’s, where the margaritas are deadly! (See that woman in the upper right corner? She is also dining “solo.”)
Another high praise claim comes for El Rey Tacos, touted on Trip Advisor as “Baja’s Best!” It also happens to be half a block from my hotel, so what’s not to love? Come for the tacos, stay for the fresh squeezed limonada!
The phrase “finger lickin’ good” should have been coined here.
But the most intriguing offering in Loreto, and perhaps the most daunting for a solo diner, is the “Clam Bake” that takes place on the terrace overlooking the beach every Saturday night at the Hotel Oasis. If you follow the paved malecon south, the Hotel Oasis begins where the sidewalk ends.
Loreto is famed for its “Almejas Chocolatas” (chocolate clams) named so for their chocolate brown shells. The Hotel Oasis has a specialty of the house, Almejas Tatemadas, which basically means clams roasted in fire, ergo the term “clam bake.” These tender, meaty, fire-roasted clams served cold with a side of chipotle mustard, paired with a chilled Sauvignon Blanc was enough to make me lose my mind!
I hope I never forget how good these fresh clams tasted!
Or these, for that matter…
Who wants BBQ when you can have fresh clams, right out of the sea?
But it’s not just roasted clams. There are clams on the half shell served with lime and Tabasco, clams grilled with garlic, clams au gratin, covered in Monterrey Jack cheese. The buffet also offers barbeque chicken and pork ribs, vegetables, salads, all for the ridiculous price of 155 pesos, under $10 USD. But as I tell the lady behind the grill, “Sólo estoy aquí para las almejas,” I am only here for the clams.
“Table for One” means you get to choose whatever chair you want. 😉
My Mom said it best, “I would have paid for the buffet, just to sit at that table on the beach and watch the sunset!”
My days in Loreto may not have been the most exciting, but they certainly were satisfying!
Gotta love a place called the “Giggling Dolphin!”
The grill was under the hood of an old truck. Maybe in the Tracker’s next life…
Whenever I talk about solo travel, the one concern people always express (especially women) is dining alone. “I could never go out to dinner by myself!” “Aren’t you uncomfortable eating alone?” “Isn’t it awkward when they ask, ‘Table for one?”
Well, initially, yes. But I got over it. When it all comes down to it, being uncomfortable about dining alone is nothing more than being uncomfortable about what others think. And I have tried to live my life spending the least amount of time possible worrying about judgmental thoughts from others, particularly strangers! If it ever gets uncomfortable, I remind myself, “I am never going to see these people again after tonight! I am not going to let them rob me of enjoyment!”
Here are some tips for those solo travelers who hesitate at the thought of solo dining, to the point that they risk losing out on an experience such as Loreto:
• Have a drink! A little cocktail always takes the edge off.
• Sit at the bar. Many restaurants offer the same menu, and a friendly bartender is typically a good conversationalist.
• Strike up a conversation with your server. In Mexico, I find they tend to look after you and make sure you feel at ease. One waiter even referred to me as his “fiancé.” 😉
• Bring along a book, a local magazine, or your trusty travel guide. Spend unattended moments researching your next stop.
• Ask for a table around the perimeter, not dead center. It’s more comfortable if you only have to worry about two sides “exposed” instead of four.
• If all else fails, do like most of the couples in the restaurant…bury your face in your cell phone to avoid conversation!
Meanwhile, here’s tonight’s lodging:
Room #1 in the lovely little Hostal Casas Loreto. “Hostal” in name only, as it has private rooms. Wonderful proprietor, Abel. Cost was 450 Pesos, or about $26
The bathroom view for $26. (Gaelyn, this one was even bigger than usual!)
Wish I was dining with you at that clam bake! Amazing!
Love the gorgeous tree lined arch:) You had me at the clams…I LOVE any type clams. A clam buffet…heaven! What a perfect view for the little treats:)
When I would dine alone in Hawaii I would always think “self you are not a bad date” and just enjoy the evening.
I may have to go to Loreto for the baked clams alone. What a great adventure you are on.
Keep those lovely food photos coming, I can almost taste it! The trip out to the nearby islands really is nice, but maybe too cool now for snorkeling. As opposed to August when you wouldn’t want to be out of the water!
What beautiful cloudless skies. I never used to mind eating alone when I travelled as I always had either a book or a crossword to occupy me. I had to keep an eye on the drinks though as they tended to disappear quicker with nobody to chat to.
I’m very pleased that you decided to carry on with the blog and I appreciate what you do, as it does take time uploading pictues, composing / writing. Thanks.
Those clams look amazing! And the sunset, too. We just spent a week in Cedar Key, FL and bought an enormous bag of fresh clams — enough for two nights of delicious dinners. 🙂 You’re finding such lovely places.
All those clams look so wonderful. Wish I could still eat them. When I first traveled solo I used to feel self conscious about dinning alone and always brought a book. But I got over it. Now when I see another woman dinning alone I sometimes ask to join her and suddenly I have a new friend. Dang, you could camp out in that bathroom. Hope the next stop is more exciting than Just food. 😉
Wow, great picture of the clams, wine and sunset….If given the choice of this setting alone or missing that opportunity I would choose dining alone every time. To much of life would be lost to waiting for the ‘right’ companion…..there is no guarantee of more time or revisiting a wonderful moment.
The clams roasting over the fire look fantastic! We had not really had clams until we were in Alabama and Florida last winter. It really ruined our us, our expectations are just too high!
Looks yummy to me! Margaritas take the edge off lots of things!
I usually always eat at the bar when I’m traveling solo and eating out. I don’t view it as dining along – I’m dining with everyone at the bar. Second choice is to order a meal to go and eat at a park or scenic spot.
The food looked great, and as far as dining alone, nothing gets between me and my hankering for food. I agree with you about sitting at the bar in some instances. The bartender will always take care of you.
I’m really enjoying this trip!