Channel Islands National Park, Part 1…Camping and Kayaking

After multiple phone and email conversations with friends and family, all who said GO!  You will be sorry if you don’t!” I boarded the Island Packers boat the next morning bound for Santa Cruz in the Channel Islands, knowing if I couldn’t quit stressing over needing to address the Winnie repairs, I could always come back early.

I must cater to every craving, as there are no options for provisioning on the islands.

I must cater to every craving, as there are no options for provisioning on the islands.

All hope of being a backpacker are dashed as I try to cram everything into this poor overloaded backpack....

All hopes of being a backpacker are dashed as I try to cram everything into this poor overloaded backpack….

In the end, I have to bring the supplemental bag just for the food, as the backpack is taken up with tent, sleeping bag, camp chair, sleeping pad, and clothing. Gotta get me some smaller gear!

In the end, I have to bring the supplemental blue bag just for the food, as the backpack is taken up with tent, sleeping bag, camp chair, sleeping pad, and clothing. Gotta get me some smaller gear!

The Channel Islands, named for the deep trough that separates them from the mainland, are a chain of eight islands, five of which are designated with National Park status.  The closest of the islands is Anacapa, 14 miles off the coast of Ventura, with the most distant being Santa Barbara over 50 miles from Ventura.   The largest in the chain where I am headed, Santa Cruz, is at about 20 miles long, and six miles wide, and 35 miles from Ventura.

On these islands are 150 endemic species found nowhere else on earth. Of these, 30 are endangered. This has earned Channel Islands the slogan, “The Galapagos Islands of North America.” These islands are thankfully protected as a part of our National Park Service, otherwise they would no doubt be covered by small boutique hotels and bistros like Catalina Island off the coast of LA.

Although all of the five National Park Islands have campgrounds, I have chosen to visit Santa Cruz because it offers the greatest access to hiking and kayaking. But also the campground there, Scorpion Cove, has water, meaning unlike other campgrounds I won’t have to pack in my own water at 8 lbs per gallon.

Island Packers is the concessionaire that offers transportation to the Channel Islands.

Island Packers is the concessionaire that offers transportation to the Channel Islands.

We are not long into the one hour crossing when our Captain spots a pod of dolphins...

We are not long into the one hour crossing when our Captain spots a pod of dolphins…

Next, three humpback whales...

Next, three humpback whales…

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The pier at Scorpion Cove washed away by high surf last December, making it now necessary to come ashore via skiff. That includes camping gear, which must be unloaded in the “daisy chain” style.

By the time I get all my junk loaded on me like a pack mule and begin the half-mile hike to my designated campsite, I realize I am at the furthest end of the loop. My site is at the bottom of a V-notch in the surrounding hills, which serve as a funnel to channel the stiff wind right down on me. Whereas all the other campsites are surrounded by giant, fragrant eucalyptus trees and therefore protected from the wind, my site is exposed with no shelter. Yes, I brought layers, but I am wearing all of them and still freezing due to the wind.

Landing on the island will be by skiff, as the pier was damaged in Dec '15 by high waves.

Landing on the island will be by skiff, as the pier was damaged in Dec ’15 by high waves.

We use the "daisy chain" approach to unload the camping gear.

We use the “daisy chain” approach to unload the camping gear.

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The campground is located in that clump of eucalyptus trees.

The campground is located in that clump of eucalyptus trees.

This is the "Upper Loop" of Scorpion Campground. Sites #23, 24, and 25 are near perfect if you don't mind the longer walk to the upper loop.

This is the “Upper Loop” of Scorpion Campground. Sites #23, 24, and 25 are near perfect if you don’t mind the longer walk to the upper loop.

My typical M.O. when I arrive at a place like this is usually to spend the first day figuring out how to get the hell out of there, and the remaining days figuring out how to never leave. Santa Cruz is no exception. I set my pack down on the ground, take a seat at the picnic table, and ponder the possibility of the 4:00pm boat back to the mainland.

I figure I will walk up to the Ranger’s residence (she told us to “Stop by anytime!) and ask if there is a possibility to change campsites to the more protected, therefore warmer area. If not, I will likely ask for a seat back on the 4pm boat. She tells me “No problem!” and gives me a list of available sites to choose from.

By midday, I have my tent pitched, and am just about to prepare lunch when I meet one of the island’s many inhabitants, the Island Fox, endemic to the Channel Islands. One of the smallest foxes in the world, it is the size of a house cat, 20% smaller than the mainland gray fox. They are sneaky little buggers, and if you turn your back for one second, you will be sharing your lunch with him. Don’t ask me how I know…

My site #5 in the "warmer section" after I moved from Site #22 in the wind tunnel.

My site #5 in the “warmer section” after I moved from Site #22 in the wind tunnel. The smell of the eucalyptus trees is heavenly.

Oh dear....here he comes!

Oh dear….here he comes!

Impossibly cute!

Impossibly cute!  He doesn’t want to take “no” for answer!

Remnants of "Scorpion Ranch," a sheep ranch that existed on the island at the turn of the century.

Remnants of “Scorpion Ranch,” a sheep ranch that existed on the island at the turn of the century.

i love this old barn door, the gate made from rusty farming implements.

I love this old barn door, the gate made from rusty farm implements.

Kayaking guide "Rye" finds a Santa Cruz Island Gopher Snake, a dwarf endemic species.

Kayaking guide “Rye” finds a Santa Cruz Island Gopher Snake, a dwarf endemic species.

The Channel Islands Visitor Center stresses that “half the park is underwater.” Although I won’t have the chance to submerge, I did come to spend some time on the surface kayaking the sea caves. I booked a tour with Santa Barbara Adventures, a company that accommodates both visitors from the mainland, as well as campers. They supply all the gear, including wetsuits, spray jackets and dry bags (helmets not optional if you want to tour the caves.)

Kayaking through the caves is a blast. Often we enter into one opening and exit the other. We see napping Harbor Seals, roosting and nesting brown pelicans, cormorants, and the clumsy pigeon guillemots. The scenery is breathtaking.

Take my word for it, the photos don’t do it justice. On top of my automotive troubles, my beloved little Canon S110 camera gave up the ghost recently. It’s in the repair shop awaiting its fate…repair or replace? So I have been using a $99 Canon ELPHie for the last couple of weeks. It does okay on bright blue days with wide angle puffy clouds, but on dark overcast days, it loses a little sharpness. Add to that a gray foggy day. Then try to snap pictures while fumbling around with a paddle, holding still through the rocking of the waves, and a death grip for fear of dropping my last remaining camera with a loaded SD card into the brink, and that will explain the marginal quality of photos.

All "rigged up" and ready to go!

All “rigged up” and ready to go!

This was my first view as I launched from Scorpion Cove. I said lots of *expletive deleted* words here over the thrill of skimming across the ocean in the shadow of these giant cliffs.

This was my first view as I launched from Scorpion Cove. I said lots of *expletive deleted* words here over the thrill of skimming across the ocean in the shadow of these giant cliffs.

"Elephant Cliff." Can you see his trunk in the water to the far right?

“Elephant Cliff.” Can you see his trunk in the water to the far right?

The cliffs are quite high.

The cliffs are quite high.

For size perspective, the white dot on the back of the cave at the surface is a Harbor Seal. His fur is lighter because he is dry. There are about 10 of them back there, so we won't be going in further.

For size perspective, see the white dot above the gray rock at the surface? That’s a Harbor Seal. His fur is lighter because he is dry. There are about 10 of them back there, so we won’t be going in further into this cave.

Our guide, "Rye" shows us Elkhorn kelp, named for the large branches that look like horns.

Our guide, “Rye” shows us Elkhorn kelp, named for the large branches that look like horns.

I learned a new term, "clotheslining," where your paddle gets stuck between two walls and catches you across the throat. Avoid this.

I learned a new term, “clotheslining,” where your paddle gets stuck between two walls and catches you across the throat. Avoid this.

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Going behind the "elephant's trunk."

Going behind the “elephant’s trunk.”

More brown pelicans on rock.

More brown pelicans on rock.

Layers and layers of diatomaceous earth, once the sea bed floor

Layers and layers of diatomaceous earth, once the sea bed floor

Many of the caves we visit have different entry/exits.

Look closely in upper right third to see bright red feet of Pigeon Guillemot in flight.

Overlooking the kayak vendors and Scorpion Cove.

Overlooking the kayak vendors and Scorpion Cove.

Area below is part of kayak tour.

Area below is part of kayak tour.

Next up, Channel Islands National Park, Part 2…the Hiking

28 thoughts on “Channel Islands National Park, Part 1…Camping and Kayaking

  1. Very cool! I hate being cold but you make me want to go there. (I think “closelining” might actually be “clotheslining” if that matters to you.)

    • Thanks, Maureen! My plan was to head up the CA coast into Oregon and Washington, but I am dead in the water now due to my hitch problem. Waiting on answers from Winnebago. How about you guys?

  2. I’m so happy you decided to go! I know how much you’ve looked forward to it. Makes me almost want to camp again! (not that much)!

  3. On the bright side (a la “Petermen,” my new “positive thinker” role model) better to be stuck on the coast of So Cal than Oregon/Washington this time of year 🙂
    The World is truly your “oyster.”
    mark

  4. *So pleased* for you that you chose to go. It looks like you had plenty to take your mind off of troubles back onshore. No matter that your photos didn’t turn out as you would have preferred- they still captivate. Looking forward to ‘the hiking.’ Sorry about the Winnie, sending good wishes.

  5. At the risk of making the sounds of a gusher, I have to say I particularly enjoyed this post of your latest adventure. The immediacy of your destined surroundings along with subtle details of how to get there underscore a desire of mine to set off on a grand escape to a place in nature not inhabited by throngs of tourists (more and more difficult to find these days). Having been recently erroneously accused of being inadventurous by a close pal who will be touring London soon sans moi I happily allow her to think of me lacking “sophistication” in the ways of world travel. I’d much rather be in a position to guard my lunch from a tiny gray fox than stand on a stinky noisy street corner to await my turn at fish ‘n chips and a dark ale. Thanks for this lovely report on the Channel Islands. 🙂

  6. So glad you went for it! I’ve thought about doing a trip to the Channel Islands for years and after reading your post now I’m sure I want to go. The kayaking looks fabulous. And so does your new and improved (and warmer) tent site. LOL at your self -described “typical M.O.” — I’ve been known to do the exact same. 🙂

  7. You definitely made the right choice to deal with the repairs on Winne when you get back. What an awesome experience.

    Hey unless you are backpacking for a week at a time don’t worry about too much stuff in the pack is you are just gonna carry it a mile or two.

    That fox is adorable!!!!!

  8. Glad you were able to make it work and make the trip. I’m not good at being cold either….BRRRRR. The wind is the worst! But then I’m not good at sleeping on the ground either. I hope you have a nice pad. What a cute little bugger the fox was. I’m sure it makes the rounds looking for handouts. Looking forward to the rest of your trip.

  9. We camped overnite at Scorpion Cove a couple of years ago and my son and I kayaked around the island. Sad to hear the pier was damaged. We were there about the same time, your pics bring back good memories!

  10. Thanks for the warning on that “clotheslining” maneuver. Great post on a very cool place I wasn’t aware of. Hope to see it someday.

  11. What a great adventure! So glad you are taking us along:) So…you and the little fox are lunch buddies:) So very cute! Kayaking in the cave looks like so much fun.

  12. I am so glad you went. RV problems will be there when you get back, unchanged, unfixed and taxing to the psyche. Jim and I are really hoping it will be a simple welding job and not something like a frame off repair.

  13. That fox truly looks like a rascal, reckon he never has a problem obtaining breakfast, lunch or dinner! Are you making any headway on the fix for the Winnie?

    • Hi, Jim (and Allison) No, I am still dead in the water. I took it to a Winnebago dealer per their direction to submit photos and a work order. They will review it and advise next course of action.

      The frame extensions are too thin to support the hitch, so I do not want to risk welding them back together. The following year after my 08, Winnebago put on heavier extensions. Since it is “structural”, coupled with the fact that I have found instances where this same thing has happened to other 08 owners where Winnebago helped with the repairs, I am hoping they will also help me. So I wait….you know what that’s like, right? 😉

      • Well damn, that is not the answer you wanted, sorry to hear that. With any luck Winnebago will help you like they did the other owners with the same issue. Fingers crossed here, hang in there. J&A

  14. It’s a great trip and a wonderful experience, you did right not to miss it. We have similar cameras. The SX 110 has a very good lens but is a bit bulkier than the Canon ELPH. I use the smaller Canon when cycling as I can wear it round my neck on a long cord and just snap as I ride along. I have found that the best shots are on the distance setting [not infinity] rather than the Auto setting.

    • Thanks, Dave. Can you tell me more about that? I currently have it on the middle setting (“Normal” as opposed to “Infinity”) and “Program” rather than “Auto.” Is that what you are recommending? Thanks!

  15. So glad you decided to go for it Suzanne! I happen to love your photos but I know we can be our own worst critics. I have to say I am so envious. This is a trip I would love to do. Kayaking those caves looks awesome! Had to laugh when you described the term “clotheslining”. Love your writing! Enjoy the rest of your trip.

  16. Such interesting adventures! I enjoyed all your photos, and the one taken inside the cave looking out was a surprise. Very nice. Best of wishes for Winnie. Aren’t you happy you weren’t driving when you realized the issue!
    Happy adventures!
    Pamelab in Houston

  17. Well I’m late to the party and have to say “me too” – glad you went, love your pictures.
    Those caves remind me of the kayaking we did on the Great Lakes. What a wonderful time that looks like. Good move on the campsite with its own personal fox. Hope Winnebago comes through for you. Glad to know about the problem and that they fixed it the next year. The View will probably be my next rig.

  18. ahh, just love the smell of the eucalyptus, there is nothing quite like it. I have a god mother in England who planted one on her garden to remind her of home and she crushes the leaf in her hands to smell the aroma.

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