Halfway to Half Dome

Regardless of whether you are a bucket list believer or a bucket list basher, everyone has a secret mental list of “things I wish I could do one day.” If you don’t, then you are not a dreamer. And if you are not a dreamer then you may as well be dead. But that’s just my opinion.

I confess to maintaining two bucket lists….those I think I can actually achieve, like Zion’s Angels Landing, or visiting all 59 of our National Parks. And then there is that “secret list” of things I wish I could do but I know it’s not likely. Things like trekking to Everest Base Camp, or summiting a 14’er. Yosemite’s Half Dome falls somewhere in between. It’s one of those secret desires that I keep to myself for fear it is beyond my reach. I know I have the mental desire but at 61 years old, do I still have the physical stamina?

Jona, our Eagle Scout climber has fashioned us each a modified Swiss sling harmess including two caribiners for safety.

Jona, our Eagle Scout climber has fashioned us each a modified Swiss sling harmess including two caribiners for safety.

We reach the sub-dome which in of itself is steep!

We reach the sub-dome which in of itself is steep!

Joey coming up the sub-dome.

Joey coming up the sub-dome.

Half Dome, the iconic 8,800 ft granite monolith dominates every vista point from all directions in Yosemite, one of our nation’s most popular National Parks. It is the focal point of every photographers lens from Ansel Adams’ famous grayscale landscapes, to the backdrop for current day technical climber selfies, even gracing the California State quarter. The 14+ mile Half Dome hike with 4,800 ft elevation gain is rated “extremely strenuous” in the park’s hiking guide. It involves an arduous, thigh-busting, lung-burning, exhausting climb before one ever reaches the top of the “sub-dome,” or small false summit. Then, one must dig even deeper to negotiate “the cables,” another 400 vertical feet using cables threaded through loose stanchions as hand holds. I know it will take everything I’ve got.

At this point, we've already been climbing steadily for over 3 miles.

At this point, we’ve already been climbing steadily for over 3 miles.

Kathy and son Jona showing no signs of pressure!

Kathy and son Jona showing no signs of pressure!

Kathy, on her way up.

Kathy, on her way up.

Practicing the use of caribeners with my purple rubber gloves. ;-)

Practicing the use of caribeners with my purple rubber gloves. 😉

Hiking Half Dome is best approached in stages. Starting the one way hike with a dropoff at the top of Glacier Point will add an additional six miles of hiking, but mostly downhill while eliminating the 600 steep and slippery stair steps alongside Vernal and Nevada Falls. Spending the night in the backcountry camp of Little Yosemite Valley will spread the 20 mile hike out over two days, but it will also mean hiking with a 30-40lb pack on my back. Every bucket list has its tradeoffs.

At this point, suffice it to say all the moisture has gone from my lips to my palms!

At this point, suffice it to say all the moisture has gone from my lips to my palms!

That's Joey below me. Why did I look down?

That’s Joey below me. Why oh why did I look down?

Jona being the good Eagle Scout, "hanging out" waiting to help an old lady cross the cables.

Jona being the good Eagle Scout, “hanging out” waiting to help an old lady cross the cables.

The trail down from Glacier Point is stunning, with views of Half Dome at every switchback. And there are a lot of views, because there are a lot of switchbacks! It’s mostly downhill through dense, fragrant firs and Ponderosa Pines. We encounter a few shallow stream crossings that serve as welcomed peaceful rest stops. After about five miles on the trail, we meet the intersection of the John Muir trail at the top of Nevada Falls, then begin a short uphill stretch and finally the last level mile of a sandy slog to base camp.

And....this is what it looks like from the top! WHEW!

And….this is what it looks like from the top! WHEW!

Kathy takes off to explore the top.

Kathy takes off to explore the top of the dome.

"What's for lunch?" I'm not kidding, she brought a can opener up here!

“What’s for lunch?” I’m not kidding, she brought a can opener up here!

Although I have camped and kayaked with backpacking gear before, this is my first attempt at backcountry camping. I have never been further than half a mile carrying everything I need to sustain myself in the wilderness. Make that a bear-inhabited wilderness. Fortunately, Little Yosemite Valley camp has both bear boxes for food storage, and the beautiful, clear running Merced River for water purification. There is a communal fire for meal preparation, but I know I’m exhausted when I’m too tired to roast a marshmallow for S’mores.

I am hopping all over like a crazy person, when I realize I need to take a lesson from Jona and Kathy and rest up for the way down!

I am hopping all over like a crazy person, when I realize I need to take a lesson from Jona and Kathy and rest up for the way down!

IMG_3733

IMG_3729

Another benefit of overnighting is getting an early start to get a jump on the throngs of day hikers beginning their hike four miles below at the bottom of the trail. Less people on the cables means less anxiety and less margin for error. So we wake with the first chirp of the early morning bird chorus, boil some coffee and fortifying oatmeal, and begin our final three hour uphill climb to the sub-dome.

I keep a lookout for my birds of a feather geezers on my way up, but I am surrounded by selfie-snapping, go-pro gadget-wielding millennials. I haven’t seen a gray hair for hours. I later learn that according to a 2010 study, only 6% of Half Dome hikers are above the age of 55.  Golden Age Passports represent!

The obligatory summit shots from "The diving board."

The obligatory summit shots from “The diving board.”

IMG_3713

The contrails are doing some crazy things in the sky at this elevation,

The contrails are doing some crazy things in the sky at this elevation,

Along with mental and physical prep for a Half Dome climb, gear is essential. Deep-treaded, supportive hiking boots are a must. I see some struggle to climb in sandals and tennis shoes. Though sticky granite is typically an easy surface to climb, not so in between the cables. The surface is worn slick on the 3 ft wide path in-between the stanchions. Gloves are also a must for gripping the cables. I have brought along a pair of fingerless sailing gloves, but instead, I opt for one of the donated pair of heavier rubberized gloves that lay in a pile at the bottom of the cable route.

Joey starts down, and will soon turn around to face the monolith like going down a ladder.

Joey starts down, and will soon turn around to face the monolith like going down a ladder.

Time to put the camera away, Suzanne!

Time to put the camera away, Suzanne! See you at the bottom, my friend.

By the time I reach the bottom, crowds of day hikers are starting to build.

By the time I reach the bottom, crowds of day hikers are starting to build.

One of my hiking companions Jona, an Eagle Scout and aspiring young climber, rigs me a modified Swiss sling harness, which makes me look more experienced than I am. One continuous loop of nylon webbing that goes around the waist and through the legs, with two caribiners attached will in theory save me from plunging to my death. In reality, it offers me a task on which to focus rather than thinking about the worst possible scenario. “Purple clip on. Silver clip off. Purple clip on. Silver clip off.” is my mantra down the steep vertical face.

Surprisingly, there have only been 6 fatalities since 1919. two of those due to lightning strikes.

Surprisingly, there have only been 6 fatalities since 1919. two of those due to lightning strikes.

The snow-capped Sierras are inspiring.

The snow-capped Sierras are awe-inspiring.

I make it to the top on sheer adrenalin alone. The views of the snow capped Sierras are breathtaking. Too excited to enjoy my lunch, I circle the gently rounded bald summit snapping photos in all directions. But I won’t celebrate just yet. I am only halfway there. I still have to get down…

Coming down alongside Nevada and Vernal Falls along the Mist Trail.

Coming down alongside Nevada and Vernal Falls along the Mist Trail.

Scenery is stunning, but with a 30 lb pack on my pack, I have to resist the urge to shove some of the trail-blocking idiots out of the way!

Scenery is stunning, but with a 30 lb pack on my pack, I have to check myself to resist shoving some of the trail-blocking idiots out of the way!

IMG_3769

Typically descents are harder for me than ascents, but not so with Half Dome. To descend, one must turn around and face the wall as if climbing down a ladder. Since the surface is so slick, it’s easy to slide down the 10 ft in between wooden crossbeams. The scariest part is the hazard presented by others too impatient to wait their turn. By the time I reach the base of the sub-dome, the crowds are growing along with the temperatures. An early start has no doubt contributed to my success.

Coming back down the 600 steps of Vernal Falls

Coming back down the 600 steps of Vernal Falls

Let the celebration begin!

Let the celebration begin!

The hike from Little Yosemite Valley up Half Dome and back down along the Mist Trail, down the stairs of Vernal Falls is over ten miles, almost half carrying a backpack that despite being emptied of food now feels twice as heavy. But there is a reward waiting for me at the bottom. The fridge in my Winnie View holds a nice chilled bottle of bubbly waiting for me. Time to celebrate not just making it up safely, but making it back down again!

iphone panorama from the summit

iphone panorama from the summit

25 thoughts on “Halfway to Half Dome

  1. Many years Paul and I did the overnight backpack up to Half Dome. We got to the cables, but about 20 feet up I had a panic attack (vertigo) and couldn’t continue. I wish I could do it, but fear that I’ll probably never be able to. Congrats on reaching the very top!!

    Nina

  2. What an awesome accomplishment! This is one I’ve always wanted to do but don’t know if I ever will. Thank you so much for taking me there vicariously! I have never read a detailed account of the trail…intense! You are an Amazon Woman!

  3. You certainly deserved that bubbly, maybe even two bottles. Be sure to add this to your bucket list and then cross it off Congrats on being in the elite 6%.

  4. Fabulous Effort! Great job! I have enjoyed this adventure through your photos and descriptions, because I will not be doing this myself…ever.
    Thank you.

  5. Good for you, so proud of what you’ve done. I think coming down Half Dome would be scarier than going up! Hooray for you!!

  6. Oh WOW! Now that’s an accomplishment most might dream of, you are making your dreams and vicariously our dreams come true. Thanks for doing it in such an artful way!

  7. Amazing! !! Just amazing! So jealous!, although looking at this pictures I probably wouldn’t be able to make that last part.

  8. Thanks for taking us along on your back:) I would love to climb Half Dome, but the backpacking/overnight part isn’t my friend. And a day hike would be too long. So I will have to be happy that you took me there:) You did a great job! Congratulations! You most certainly deserved champagne:)

  9. Wow – congratulations, cuz! Just looking at those pictures made my acrophobia kick in – geez! Glad you knocked another one off that bucket list. Love you!

  10. Ah you are so right. Half Dome is on my secret, probably will never make it, bucket list. I had a friend who did it, but as a day hike, and it was crawling with very crazy people and the person in front of her slipped and had to be rescued. I have parked on the Tioga Road and watched the ant-like line of people on the cables toward the top. I have hiked Vernal and Nevada, Glacier Point up and down, Yosemite Falls, I love Yosemite. I dreamed for years of doing Half Dome, and only recently decided that the 70 year old knees will probably not let me do this one. Your story helps somehow, I almost get to do it, without the vertigo or the fear or the effort. But almost doesn’t count at all. Congrats again, Suzanne. You are my hero.

  11. Yes, cheers!
    If you can do Half Dome, a 14’er will be a walk up. Really. Try Mt. Harvard outside of Buena Vista, CO. A couple of pleasant nights out, easy scrambling (with much panting) and views to last forever.

  12. I couldn’t be more thrilled for you Suzanne. What an amazing accomplishment! I hope to do this someday and now that you have done it, with a pack on your back no less, you have me thinking that perhaps I can do it. You rock! Congratulations and thanks for taking us there.

  13. I would never have the stamina required to hike up half dome, even without a pack, well done. The pictures were incredible, I’ve never seen what it is like. Great post. The wish in my closet is Antartica, but I get seasick.

Leave a Reply to LuAnn Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *