Tlaquepaque: As Fun to Say as it is to Explore

In my previous post, I mentioned the grand bargain of Guadalajara, the Tapatio Tour bus that offers three routes of touring, all for the low price of 70 pesos, or $3.50.   One of these three routes travels just about seven miles away to the nearby suburb, Tlaquepaque, pronounced “Tuh-lacky-packy.”  Try saying that without laughing.   Of course, we English speakers can’t resist putting a syllable after the “T” when it should not be separated from the “L” but still you get the general idea.  The name just sounds like fun.  And I figure if Tapatio Tours offers a separate bus there, well, it must be worthy of exploring.

The Tapatio Tours bus depot. The bus stops here every hour.

The Tapatio Tours bus depot. The bus stops here every hour.

 Yes, Tlaquepaque is a bit of a tourist destination, but if you enjoy arts and crafts, there's no better place.

Yes, Tlaquepaque is a bit of a tourist destination, but if you enjoy arts and crafts, there’s no better place.

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I’ve never been much of a shopper, ever since I was faced with liquidating the contents of my first home following a divorce in 1993.  My former husband wouldn’t even agree to cooperate with the realtors, much less help me pack up all the crap we accumulated after eight years of marriage.   There was no such thing as ebay or Craig’s List back in 1993, so I hauled half that junk around for years, storing the other half in a Public Storage cube for what I later tabulated to be a bill of over $10,000…my first lesson in the merits of “simplified living.”

Fresh coconuts for sale.

Fresh coconuts for sale.

The main square, or Jardin.

Moving to Manhattan only reinforced this need to maintain a small footprint.   There’s nothing like living in a tiny Manhattan mouse house to limit expenditures.  And what great training for RV living!   I did own a 3 bedroom home in between, but still managed to keep it pretty lean.  Still, liquidation was a painful process, not only physically but emotionally as well.  Letting go of “things” I had hauled around all those years was like saying goodbye to a lot of old friends.  Books were the toughest, as was the collection of five sets of tableware I had amassed (Is there such a thing as an introvert who enjoys entertaining?)

The shops along Indepencia are beautiful decorated. Some don't even allow photos, because they look more like a museum.

The shops along Calle Independencia are beautiful decorated. Some don’t even allow photos, because they look more like a museum.

 A "Katrina," or finely dressed skeleton, which is a common theme in Mexico, celebrating the Day of the Dead.

A “Katrina,” or finely dressed skeleton, which is a common theme in Mexico, celebrating the Day of the Dead.

So when a travel destination’s main draw is “shopping,” I will almost always take a pass.  The Winnie has just enough empty space to keep me from feeling smothered, and I plan to keep it that way.   So why spend an entire afternoon traveling to an “arts and crafts village,” a place known for its shopping?

The main shopping street, Independencia.

The main shopping street, Independencia.

Casa Fuerte, one of the more well known restaurants along this street.

Casa Fuerte, one of the more well known restaurants along this street.

IMG_3123One of my main mantras when getting rid of everything to become a full timer was “I don’t have to own it to admire it.”    I kept the photos used for the sale of my prized possessions on ebay.  I’ll always have the image, if not the item.   That has freed me up to admire artistic beauty without feeling the need to own it.  And Tlaquepaque is filled with artistic beauty!

The decor inside some of the restaurants along Independencia is stunning. This one is "Casa Luna," with lots of "moons" hanging about.

The decor inside some of the restaurants along Independencia is stunning. This one is “Casa Luna,” with lots of “moons” hanging about.

Like dining in a gallery...

Like dining in a gallery…

The name Tlaquepaque means “place above clay land,” therefore it’s known best for its pottery.  But also finely woven textiles, hand blown glass, and uniquely designed jewelry is also on display.

Inside El Parián, where restaurants are arranged in a circle around a gazebo in a courtyard with strolling musicians.

Inside El Parián, where restaurants are arranged in a circle around a gazebo in a courtyard with strolling musicians.

This "mini-keg" is Mexico's version of a pitcher of beer.

This “mini-keg” is Mexico’s version of a pitcher of beer.

The main hub of activity radiates from El Parián, a shopping arcade filled with bars and restaurants, and a fleet of roving mariachi bands.   My resistance falters, however as I walk through this open air hub, passing tables with patrons sipping salted rims of slushy margaritas in decorative glasses in keeping with the festive décor.

Popular items always include the ubiquitous "unibrow" of Frida Kahlo.

Popular items always include the ubiquitous “unibrow” of Frida Kahlo.

An entire wall of "Frida Bags."

An entire wall of “Frida Bags.”

Next to this hub is the main jardin and gazebo, with torta ahogadas food carts and Neverias, or ice cream shops around the perimeter.   Two beautiful churches also help frame the square.

Parroquia de San Pedro, a Franciscan church began in 1671 and completed in 1813. The architecture combines Byzantine, Basilical, Roman, and Baroque styles.

Parroquia de San Pedro, a Franciscan church began in 1671 and completed in 1813. The architecture combines Byzantine, Basilical, Roman, and Baroque styles.

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Patron Saint of the village.

But the biggest tourist draw is the pedestrian-only Calle Independencia, radiating off the main square. This is a row of steadily repeating doors and windows filled with beautiful displays of house wares, antiques, pottery and pewter, and themed shops so close to museum quality that some even forbid photos.

The construction of Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad on the west side of Jardín Hidalgo began in 1742 and was completed in 1812.

The construction of Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad on the west side of Jardín Hidalgo began in 1742 and was completed in 1812.

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Of course, one needs not walk too far for a rest stop in the many equally decorated restaurants.  On the second to last Friday of each month, an event called “Noches de Ronda” takes place whereby mariachis and street bands are featured.

A rare and beautiful site, female mariachis.

A rare and beautiful site, female mariachis.

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I’m proud to say I admired, sampled, touched, smelled, and tasted offerings up and down Calle Independencia…but I came back on the Tapatio Tour bus with my sights enriched, my tactile senses stimulated, my thirst quenched, and my wallet still intact.

13 thoughts on “Tlaquepaque: As Fun to Say as it is to Explore

  1. A little upscale for us, and I am not sure about the pigeon fetish. We liked the Frieda things although that top made us giggle as it also looked like Oscar the Grouch on Sesame street. Keep up the enjoyable travel, your weather is much better than ours.

  2. I absolutely LOVED saying Tlaquepaque in Spanish class! It was also a fun word for the students to try and pronounce. Thanks again for sharing your beautiful photos. You are literally making my mouth water for Mexico. Just a few more weeks and we’ll be there!

  3. DH went ape over Katrina! “Quite a place”, sez he! I had to laugh at your saying about not having to own something to admire it. I acquired that mantra about 25+ years ago, when fulltiming was totally in my sights as “the way to go”. It was an oft-repeated phrase whenever I admired something as we traveled here and there; else our current home would be stacked yet even higher with the “preciousness” of travel adventures.

  4. I had the same feeling looking at Frida’s work so I had to look her up. This sums it up. “I paint myself because I am so often alone and because I am the subject I know best.”
    Here is an interesting bio. http://www.fridakahlo.org/
    Thanks, Suzanne, I got my art lesson for the day!

  5. RE: Frida Kahlo . . . I had never heard of her until a few years ago. A strange duck, indeed, but so fascinating at the same time. I couldn’t stop reading everything in sight about her. Her early-life handicaps were substantial, and it is amazing to me that she did so much. I don’t particularly care for her work, but she certainly is an inspiration. The handbags are certainly eye catching!!

    Virtual hugs,

    Judie

  6. For those who may not know, Frida Kahlo is one of Mexico’s most celebrated artists. She was a painter during the 30’s and 40’s, specializing in abstract self-portraits. During her lifetime, her husband, Diego Rivera, was more famous, particularly in the US, as he was commissioned to paint several murals on the walls of US buildings. However, posthumously, Frida’s popularity eclipsed that of her husband. Her former home is now one of the most popular museums in Mexico City, often with a line for admission.

    She and Diego grace the back and front respectively, of the Mexico 500 Peso Note (second to largest denomination, equivalent to about $25 USD.)

    In 2002, her biography was made into a movie, “Frida.” Selma Hayak played Frida, and other big name stars such as Ashley Judd, Antonio Banderas, and Edward Norton stared in the movie. It was nominated for 6 academy awards. It won best musical score that year. I own the CD. If you have an interest in early century Latin-style music, I recommend the soundtrack.

    She was the first Hispanic woman to be featured on a US Postage Stamp in 2001. Her iconic image can be found throughout Mexico on everything from shopping bags to refrigerator magnets.

  7. We have a Frida Kahlo also. Not just interesting self-portraits, but an interesting philosophy.
    “I tried to drown my daemons, but the bastards learned to swim …” ~Frida Kahlo

  8. Hahaha…love the quote, Jeff; it hits pretty darn close to home. I am so very much enjoying the evidence of your traipse through Mexico this winter, Suzanne! The sights (the cathedrals have been glorious!), colors, food, and drink exhibited through your lovely photographs have been wonderful, indeed…but, for me, the icing on the cake you deliciously serve up always comes down to the depth of your writing–from factual information to emotional response, always a delight! This ol’ Tennessee gal is having a heck of a virtual time traveling right along beside ya…

  9. I am not a shopper either Suzanne but I loved Tlaquepaque, perhaps more so because there is a high-end shopping district in Sedona, where we once lived, by the same name. I think I most enjoyed stopping by the gallery of bronze artist Sergio Bustamante, whose work I first discovered when walking the Puerto Vallarta malecon. It is unusual, which is why I probably enjoyed it so much.

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