Same Ole San Miguel?

It was my sixth or seventh trip to San Miguel de Allende. I’ve lost count of the visits there spanning from two weeks to two months since 2007. My brother Don first broke the news that he had read about this mountain town / artist community that some gringos consider utopia in old Colonial Mexico, so he was driving his Toyota Land Cruiser down from Texas for a month to check it out. He had received a book for Christmas, Tony Cohan’s On Mexican Time, a book that would prompt a permanent paradigm shift for us both about our neighbors to the south. Since that time, we have returned every year, at least once a year to rekindle the connection with such a colorful culture.IMG_3369

San Miguel de Allende was voted "Best City in the World" in Conde Nast 2013 Reader's Choice Awards.  A blessing and a curse.

San Miguel de Allende was voted “Best City in the World” in Conde Nast 2013 Reader’s Choice Awards. A blessing and a curse.

My daily downhill commute

My daily downhill commute

Whenever I arrive in San Miguel, I drop my suitcases and head into the “centro” to see what has changed since I was last here. My particular apprehension on this visit comes as a result of San Miguel’s having received the dubious distinction of being voted “The Best City in the World” in Conde Nast 2013 Reader’s Choice Awards. Prior to that, most people said “Where?” whenever I was headed back to San Miguel. So I wasn’t sure what magnitude of change to expect, now that it’s been “discovered.”
IMG_3311

Scary rooftop guard dogs!

Scary rooftop guard dogs!

Though it has gained a bit more notoriety, it’s not yet lost. There seem to be a lot more international tourists than in past visits. Foreign dialects carrying Mexico guidebooks now outnumber the number of expats wearing flouncy hats and carrying yoga mats. The only saving grace is that there is no airport here….yet.IMG_3217

I had never seen a vertical garden before!

I had never seen a vertical garden before!

IMG_3653

Mexico is a bit of a dichotomy, in that progress happens fast in some ways, and not so fast in others. There is a new, hideously ugly department store in town, Coppel. It caused quite a bit of controversy, similar to the “big box stores” that threaten local shop owners in the US. Yet progress has also brought improvements such as preservation of the Centro Historico where unsightly power lines are being buried below the ancient cobblestone streets. Progress, or lack thereof, still results in controversy as debate ensues about the type of stones used to replace the original cobblestones.IMG_3278

IMG_3250IMG_3296

Restaurants don’t seem to come and go with the speed they do back in the US. All my favorites are still here. And thankfully, no chains have infiltrated, save for a few local stores offering the Mexican version of Kentucky Fried. Except for Starbucks, that is. Still haven’t figured out how that one snuck in, but I do confess to camping out in their comfy leather chairs long enough for a latte’ and a load off my feet after a long walk across town.

Starbucks has an atmospheric courtyard in primo location.

Starbucks has an atmospheric courtyard in primo location.

...in exchange for featuring Mexican coffee!

…in exchange for featuring Mexican coffee!

IMG_3428

What has most changed about San Miguel since I was here last? Without a doubt, the prices. Due to the devaluation of the peso, some establishments are even beginning to display prices in USD. There are very few bargains left to be had in San Miguel. Two liter-sized Diet Cokes are 20 pesos, or about $1.35 US, around the same price you pay in the US. Beer is still a bargain, but as for mixed drinks like margaritas? I paid on average of 80 pesos, or around $5.50 for a small cocktail glass, good for what seemed like a buck per swallow.

I explored a new (to me) cemetery this trip.  It was huge!

I explored a new (to me) cemetery this trip. It was huge!

Both vertical as well as horizontal resting places.

Both vertical as well as horizontal resting places.

There's still some space in the Condo made o' stone-o.

There’s still some space in the Condo made o’ stone-o.

This guy must have been a famous Mariachi member.  Much more festive than a granite marker, don't you think?

This guy must have been a famous Mariachi member. Much more festive than a granite marker, don’t you think?

I went to the new “La Burger,” billed as the best burger joint in Centro. The price for a burger was 165 pesos, about $11 in USD for a burger and fries. Had I not been nursing a hangover, in need of a good greasy cheeseburger as a cure, I would have walked out! Instead, I opted for the “Mini Burger” at the equivalent of $9 USD, with half the beef. And my “hair of the dog” Beer and Clamato was 50 pesos, no bargain for Mexico where cervezas used to be cheaper than bottled water. Those may not be New York prices yet, but they surely are Dallas prices!

View from one of my favorite rooftop restaurants, La Posidita, in the moonlight.

View from one of my favorite rooftop restaurants, La Posidita, in the moonlight.

Full moon in da 'hood.

Full moon in da ‘hood.

Don't worry about traffic, just ride your horse to church!

Don’t worry about traffic, just ride your horse to church!

Thank goodness there are still a few hold outs, like my favorite street taco stand….where you can get a juicy steak or pork taco with a sliver of pineapple, sprinkled onions and cilantro, hot off the grill for 10 pesos, less than a buck! Viva la Mexico street vendors! I’m glad some things never change…yet.

My favorite street taco stand on Insurgentes.  Tacos al Pastor with a slice of that fresh pineapple overhead.  SO yummy!

My favorite street taco stand on Insurgentes. Tacos al Pastor with a slice of that fresh pineapple overhead. SO yummy!

Join me on a walking tour of a few of my favorite San Miguel de Allende Fountains along “Ruta del Aqua.”

IMG_3216 IMG_3649 IMG_3650

11 thoughts on “Same Ole San Miguel?

  1. Beautiful place and one I definitely want to visit one day. It’s a shame it’s become so gentrified…I always morn the loss of an authentic, local feel. But progress is progress and I’m sure the locals have prospered from the rise in tourism. Love the colorful pics!

    Nina

  2. What a beautiful place. I love that Garden wall and all the gardens. I looked up some information and the history was fascinating. Beautiful photos.

  3. Thanks for such a great tour of one of your favorite places. It would be fun to travel there with you and share your excitement for this quaint community. It is always sad to see a gem over run by tourists. But…how cool that Starbucks has found it!! I call that a perfect hidden gem:) Starbucks hasn’t found Why or Ajo…haha!!

  4. Thanks for the posting Suzanne. Paige and I will be there starting this Sunday so this is a great preview.! If you have any other favorite restaurants or things to do there, let me know!

  5. What s great place! Love the unique, vertical garden. So glad to see you back! As an avid follower, we worried about you – but didn’t want to invade your privacy. Trying to find the proper balance between helping elderly parents and taking over is a difficult tight rope we are also traversing. Hang in there and thanks again for sharing!

  6. We visited San Miguel four years ago during our one-year stay in Mexico. We really loved the area but even back then it seemed more expensive than many of the other lovely colonial towns we had visited. It is good to see that some of the overhead wires are being buried underground but sad to hear about some of the other changes for the sake of progress.

  7. Great pictures and prose of a wonderful site which we shall in all probability never visit. Mexico is so beautiful and historical, We envy your trips there, and enjoy it through your site.
    Thanks,
    Allen and Deede

Leave a Reply to Metamorphosis Lisa Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *