The Eye of The Needles

It has finally come time to leave Canyon Rim boondock. The wagon train is hitching up and heading south to hide out in a pine forest until the storm blows over. In this case, the “storm” being the storm of school students that descend upon Utah like locusts for a four day weekend every October. It’s UEA Weekend coming up, the Utah Education and Administration conference held on Thursday and Friday, giving the kids a four day weekend from school. We learned this the hard way last year, as we found ourselves trapped in Little Wild Horse slot canyon with about 200 “little wild horses” of the two legged variety. So plans are firmly in place to avoid a repeat this year.

But I am having a tough time leaving the canyon, especially as the rigs pull out one by one, revealing what Jim had so eloquently described as “ab-so-lutely spec-F@#ING-tacular” views now unfolding in front of me. As the day grows longer, and reports start coming back from those who have reached the pine forest, gravitational forces seem to be holding me in place. “There is no view here, other than the pine trees. It may be tough to find a sunny spot for solar. The road is going to be a horror if it rains. No hiking trails, but we can walk on the ATV roads.” So here I sit with this Canyon Rim view all to myself, trying to make a decision of whether to stay or go.

And then there was one...

And then there was one…

Also adding to my difficult decision is the fact that I didn’t get my fill of the Needles District. I had read about all these great hikes in the area, yet being so far away, we only got to hike the one trail, Chesler Park Loop. I really wanted to see the Druid Arch, but there just wasn’t time. So finally, The Indecisive Libra came to a decision. I would spend one more night in the Canyon Rim boondock, then get up at “first light” and drive into the Needles. If I could find a place to park it, I would stay a couple of nights. If not, I would do a short hike, then join the gang in Devil’s Canyon later that afternoon.

Slickrock ascent on Big Spring Canyon hike.

Slickrock ascent on Big Spring Canyon hike.

Side detour off Big Spring Canyon Trail that loops back to Campground B.

Side detour off Big Spring Canyon Trail that loops back to Campground B.

Detour off Big Spring Canyon to trail leading to Campground B.  Note chain railing for the assist.

Detour off Big Spring Canyon to trail leading to Campground B. Note chain railing for the assist.

Big Spring Canyon Hike

Big Spring Canyon Hike

Big Spring Canyon hike

Big Spring Canyon hike

The Canyonlands National Park Squaw Flats Campground is at the end of a desolate 33 mile, two-lane road. The campground only has 26 no-hookup sites, and those are typically filled by 9:00am. There are alternative BLM campgrounds and dispersed camping about five to ten miles back up the road, but I want to be in Squaw Flats to take advantage of some of the hiking that leaves right from the campground, and to be closer to the Elephant Hill Trailhead, another three miles down a 4WD road. So I get hitched up as the sun is coming up, an unbelievable fete for me, drive the 50+ miles into the park, and am circling the campground loop by 8:50am.

The Druid Arch Trail follows Chesler Park Loop for 2 miles.

The Druid Arch Trail follows Chesler Park Loop for 2 miles.

IMG_5536

IMG_5538

The Squaw Flats Campground has a very….shall we say, “enthusiastic” camp host, who wears a uniform and rides his bike with clipboard attached around the loops. He tells me my options, (along with the fact that I am “speeding” at over 15mph) and I end up snagging the next to last spot. There is zero signal here, so I send a message to “the gang” on my Delorme InReach, telling them I have secured a site, and I will rejoin them by Friday in time to celebrate Jim’s birthday.

I do a six miler into Big Spring Canyon, but save Druid Arch for the next day. I want to get an early start to make sure I have plenty of time to meander (Read: Get lost and retrace my steps.)
IMG_5540 IMG_5541 IMG_5547

I am on the trail to Druid Arch by 8:30am, again a remarkable early morning accomplishment for me, particularly considering it was a slow going 3 miles down Elephant Hill Road to the trailhead. There are plenty of parking spaces as this hour, and the morning air is cool and soft on my skin. There are birds fluttering across my path, and I don’t see another soul for the first two miles. Maybe the Box Canyons are on to something with this early morning hiking thing. 😉
IMG_5556 IMG_5561 IMG_5563

I retrace the Chesler Park trail until I reach the junction sign post at 2.1 miles, indicating my left turn up the canyon wash toward Druid Arch. Whereas the Chesler Park Loop can get a little tedious on the back side walking through the “prairie,” I find the Druid Arch hike itself to offer more consistent beauty. Since about three miles of the trail is through Elephant Canyon, the undulating red sandstone of the pinnacle walls, boulder-filled creek bed, and slickrock pour-offs offer a bit more scenic variety.

IMG_5569

IMG_5578
IMG_5589

The arch itself is the terminus for the hike. This 450 ft angular arch was named after the Druids for its resemblance to Stonehenge. The side profile is the first glimpse I get of the arch, which looks more like a pinnacle from that angle. It is not until I start to climb a bit that the three holes become apparent revealing the definition of an arch. It appears massive.  Foreboding in its towering presence.

First glimpse of Druid Arch, head on.

First glimpse of Druid Arch, head on.

IMG_5592

IMG_5591

My Utah hiking book explains when the first fin of the arch becomes visible, to be on the lookout for a side canyon that leads up a metal ladder for a better view of the arch. The guidebook cautions that the last 80 feet can be quite a scramble. But I am not clear at what point the “last 80 ft” starts and ends. So I just keep climbing until I can’t climb anymore. I think it would be possible to continue along the narrow precipice to actually reach the base of the arch, but considering I haven’t seen another living soul for an hour, I decide not to push my luck. Although I do feel an increased level of comfort and confidence after having obtained the Delorme InReach two-way satellite communicator, it is not much good if I knock myself out falling off a cliff!

Climbing up the canyon to get a closer view.

Climbing up the canyon to get a closer view.

Look left for the metal ladder.

Look left for the metal ladder.

IMG_5597

I have the arch all to myself for over an hour. I eat a nice leisurely lunch, take my boots off and press the soles of my hot, bare feet against the cold stone surface beneath me, and lay on the slickrock staring up at tiny airplanes leaving contrails in the cobalt blue sky behind the massive structure overhead.
IMG_5583

Lunch stop with a view!

Lunch stop with a view!

Looking back down over Elephant Canyon, location of the trail head

Looking back down over Elephant Canyon, location of the trail head

One of the many slickrock pour-offs along the trail.

One of the many slickrock pour-offs along the trail.

As is often the case when I find myself in a magical place like this all alone, I make a silly rule. I will stay until the first person arrives and I no longer have it all to myself. But my patience for sitting runs out long before my private time at the arch, and I head back down, retracing my steps 5.7 miles back to the trailhead.IMG_5609
IMG_5613

IMG_5612

The day after this hike, my arms and shoulders are sore from lifting myself up over and around giant boulders. The backs of my thighs are abraded from sliding down slickrock pour-overs. And I have a few scabbed-over puncture wounds from thorny tree limbs. But what a satisfying way to spend a day in October’s Bright Blue Weather!
IMG_5572“O suns and skies and flowers of June,
Count all your boasts together,
Love loveth best of all the year
October’s bright blue weather.”
~ Helen Hunt Jackson

26 thoughts on “The Eye of The Needles

    • Thanks, Karen. Yes, the arch was a great place for introspection. I think you would have liked it. I am behind in my blog reading, as usual, but hope to catch up when I settle in Virgin for a while. I trust you and Hailey are well?

  1. I knew it would be good back in there, but I didn’t know it would be that spectacular. We drove down one day from Moab, but it was a late start, it was pushing 100 degrees, so we didn’t venture too far from the truck. Guess we’ll be going back. Thanks for the lovely pictures.

    • Allison, yes it was a richly rewarding hike for almost the entire 10+ miles. It makes me wish I had the navigational skills to penetrate “The Maze!”

  2. So glad to hear that you have the InReach! I don’t hike alone, but certainly would want to have such a device – no matter my venue – if alone.

    A couple of weeks ago, a friend of sixty years (!) left hers on the bedroom bedside table while going for a shower in her own home, and died trying to get from the bathroom to the device when she had a heart attack. I am still raw from that shock.

    • Judie — That is a sad story indeed. I am so sorry to hear of your loss. But personally, I would rather go suddenly than suffer. At least if it happens, I will have taken steps to prevent it. I guess I would rather go reaching for my InReach than reaching for my Ensure! 😉

    • Mi Amiga, I wish you were here, because you need a REST! You guys are wearing me out. Hope it all falls into place soon, and you are headed toward la playa!

  3. You go girl!!! Those photos remind me so much of Tent Rocks and brings back amazing memories so thank you for that. I’m going to have to check out the InReach for my solo adventures!

    • Thanks, Susan – Yes, it was not exactly easy since it is so far, but it was worth it, and the distance helps keep the crowds down a bit.

  4. Yes, yes!! You are the first person I know that has been to the Druid Arch. This is on my list for next April. Thanks for all the fabulous photos! I can’t wait see the arch. I just love this park!! Soooo glad you stayed to so this hike!!

    Have fun with meeting back up with the gang:)

    • Thanks, Pam! I can’t believe I actually hiked some place where you and John have not been! And now you are giving me a new “list” to hike over there on 395. But burrrrr!!!

  5. I am so glad you made the decision to do this hike. It reached in and touched so many places of my soul. The solitude, the water reflections, the colors, the formations, and even the scrape on your leg….all of it pure joy.
    I consider this my Birthday present….a lasting memory.

  6. Delightful hike, even with the ladders. Glad you could enjoy it AND avoid the munchkin crowds. We were overrun that weekend at the North Rim. Looking forward to exploring more of Canyonlands, but may have to bundle up for winter to avoid crowds.

    • Gaelyn, they weren’t bad back in the Needles area. The little campground was full, but I hardly saw anyone on the hikes. I would like to experience it in winter, though…must be so quiet!

  7. Your description of your hike, especially your stay at Druids Arch totally caught my imagination and memories. When I wandered the mountains my best times were those when I was alone. Sitting on a rock or tree whose location had taken me miles and hours of effort to reach was my reward. The time spent there looking and listening gave me time to do fantastic thinking. Nature’s beauties were the stimulus that removed all obstacles, provided solutions for all problems and brought peace. I can no longer make those hikes, but your blogs are a magnificent replacement. Thank you and peace.
    Allen

    • Oh, Allen, what a nice note, and yes, you pinpointed so well exactly why I love to hike on long hikes! I could not have said it better! You captured the essence…” Nature’s beauties were the stimulus that removed all obstacles, provided solutions for all problems and brought peace.” Yes, Yes, YES!!!

  8. The Eye of the Needle by Ken Follet ?? Stunning pictures as always. Apart from thoroughly enjoying yourself, what will you do with all this travel experience and these wonderful pictures. However readers like myself and others appreciate and benefit from your efforts of taking us to places that we may never visit.

    • Hi, Dave — No, nothing that intellectual. haha! I have not read Ken Follet’s work. More like the arch as the hole in one of the Needles spires in the “Needles District.” I often ponder that same question of what will become of these thousands of photos on my hard drive. But for me, it’s the “process” rather than the collection. I am no compelling writer nor am I a skilled photographer, but still, it has to come out! So thank you for always being such a kind supporter of the blog!

Leave a Reply to Sherry in MT Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *