The Road to Ensenada

Margie has a floor to ceiling wine cellar larger than her walk-in closet with a wine collection that makes her shoe racks pale in comparison. We go down and pick out a nice bottle of Shiraz to share. While sitting across the bar from pistachio-eating husband Chris, he asks, “So where you headed?” “I have no idea. I was thinking about Rosarito.” “hhhmmmm….I don’t think you would like that. It’s full of drunk college kids. Better keep going on down to Ensenada. It’s a nice waterfront. Great food. I think you’ll like it.”

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The “Tijuana Trolley” ends within a few feet of the border. One can take a shuttle across for $5, but I want to walk it, as it seems less overwhelming to take it in slowly. The cab drivers on the Tijuana side are fast, slick, and relentless. Thank goodness my trusty Moon Travel Guide (I usually prefer Lonely Planet, but their last Baja publication was 2007) tells me the ABC Bus Company has a small satellite terminal just a block across the border, where buses run to Ensenada about every half hour. “Asiento ventana, por favor?” For 180 pesos ($11) I am on my way in my window seat for the two hour ride to Ensenada.

Chocolate!  "From the bean to the belly!"  What's not to love?

Chocolate! “From the bean to the belly!” What’s not to love?

Back in the land of mango with lime and chili!

Back in the land of mango with lime and chili!

I love that the cilantro for the tacos is displayed as a bouquet.

I love that the cilantro for the tacos is displayed as a bouquet.

Immediately after leaving the city of Tijuana, the scenery out the right side of the bus unfolds dramatically, hugging the coastline. I am not exaggerating when I say I had to go for the Advil because my neck was hurting from gawking out the window.

Arriving in Ensenada is easy, as I quickly come to realize is the case about all of about Baja, as the bus stations are mostly located along the central Highway 1, which typically runs through the heart of the downtown area. Only a few blocks walk is required to find a centrally located, reasonably priced hotel. I drop my bags and head out to explore the waterfront.
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Ensenada is a very “walkable” city, as the streets are laid out in grid fashion, with “Calles” running parallel to the waterfront in most cases, and “Avenidas” (avenues) running perpendicular. I am surprised to find that drivers are extremely courteous, stopping consistently for pedestrians. Being a bit of a seedy port city, there does seem to be a lot of prostitution in full swing. If this sort of thing bothers you, stay around the tourist areas….or at least stay off Miramar Street.

I think it's been longer than four hours, my friend...

I think it’s been longer than four hours, my friend…

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The beautiful Malecon, or walkway along the waterfront.

The beautiful Malecon, or walkway along the waterfront.

The waterfront is fresh and breezy, with sounds and smells of the sea that feed my soul. There is a Carnival cruise ship in port, but thankfully the entire shore excursion seems to have congregated in one bar, “Papas and Beer” a place I quickly vow to avoid as I watch what looks like “date rape” taking place by the waiter when a young woman orders a shot of tequila.

Cruiseship crowd at "Papas & Beer."  Stay away if you don't want your breasts publicly fondled!

Cruiseship crowd at “Papas & Beer.” Stay away if you don’t want your breasts publicly fondled!

The main tourist drag, Calle Lopez Mateos.

The main tourist drag, Calle Lopez Mateos.

Ensenada's tribute to David Bowie?

Ensenada’s tribute to David Bowie?

The Number 2 and 3 rated restaurants in Ensenada according to TripAdvisor are not “restaurants” at all, but rather a pair of dueling food carts selling nothing but ceviche. Who says I’m not a risk taker when I make my first meal in Mexico raw fish, eh?? But the shrimp and octopus tostadas are so out of this world fresh and delicious that I can’t stop at one. The sweet and salty taste of the raw seafood “cooked” in lime tastes like the sea, and I savor every tender morsel.

Mariscos El Guero, my favorite of the two.

Mariscos El Guero, my favorite of the two.

Best Ceviche, EVER!

Best Ceviche, EVER!

The competition,  La Guerrerense

The competition, La Guerrerense

I realize with this post, the blog is rapidly turning into a “foodie” blog, but asi es la vida en Mexico!   My two favorite Spanish words are disfruta (enjoy!) and Provecho!, (the shortened version of Buen Provecho that begins every meal when the dish is served,) meaning “Bon Appetite!”IMG_7582IMG_7604

Another reason to love Ensenada is it holds one of many reputed claims to be the “birthplace of the margarita,” created by bartender Don Carlos Orozco, for Margarita Henkel, daughter of the German Ambassador to Mexico in Hussong’s Cantina, est. in 1892, Baja’s oldest bar. What are the odds that margaritas are 2 for 1 at Hussong’s on the first night I arrive in Baja? The thing I love about Mexican margaritas is the simplistic purity of ingredients; tequila, Controy (Mexico’s version of Cointreau) and lime. And if you order it frozen? They just throw it in the blender. No sugary slushies coming out of an ice cream machine here! At only 45 pesos, the 2 for 1 special netted out at about $1.25 USD apiece. With my hotel only a block away, I am not admitting to how many I had!IMG_7523

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Did I mention it was Margarita 2 for 1 night?

Did I mention it was Margarita 2 for 1 night?

This indistinguishable picture serves no other purpose but to remind me of the absurdity of this couple dancing, one arm around each others neck/waist, and the other hand holding their cell phones!  They danced all over the floor and their eyes never left their respective screens...

This indistinguishable picture serves no other purpose but to remind me of the absurdity of this couple dancing, one arm around each others neck/waist and the other hand holding their cell phones! They danced all over the floor and their eyes never left their respective screens…

The Ritz Hotel, my home for two nights.

The Ritz Hotel, my home for two nights.

Four hundred forty pesos, approx $25 USD.

Four hundred forty pesos, approx $25 USD.

The bathroom view for $27 USD.

The bathroom view for $25 USD.

Listen to your heart that beats
And follow it with both your feet
And as you walk and as you breathe
You ain’t no friend to me

“The Road to Ensenada” ~ Lyle Lovett

17 thoughts on “The Road to Ensenada

  1. Your post made me hungry! Looks like you have a great trip underway, and I’m glad to see that you are blogging again.

  2. I love Jimmy Buffet’s margarita recipe which has no sugar or chemicals added, but I must experiment with Hussong’s recipe. Love the food, drink and descriptions.

  3. Glad to see you made it to Hussong’s before I could suggest it … my favorite place in Ensenada the years I lived in Carlsbad Ca. Staggered out of their many many times. 🙂

  4. What a fun time you are having! Your photos are so artistic and your subjects very interesting. I really enjoy your descriptions. Never having been to Baja, I only pictured whale watching – but Ensenada has some great photo ops. The seafood in the market is beautifully displayed. Happy Travels in Mexico!
    Pamelab in Houston

  5. Great story and pictures. By the way, this is your blog and you can write about all of the food you would like. Makes me want to eat some of that.

  6. So glad you went to Ensenada!!! The original Ninfas in Houston makes margaritas like that. YUM. You passed Calafia on your way to Ensenada. It’s just a restaurant/hotel/resort type place. Tables are out on the cliffs looking over the Pacific. Very relaxing to sip margaritas out there with the waves crashing just below. I’ve always felt the further from the border you are, the safer it is in Mexico. ENJOY!!!

  7. I am amazed at how courteous the Mexican driver’s are – a driver stopped in the middle of an intersection the other night to let us cross, he didn’t need to. You got a very good deal on the Margie’s they are 70 pesos in Puerto Vallarta!

  8. ditto ditto and ditto. The only thing about coming to the party so late is that every one has already said most everything I am thinking of to say, till I read the comments. Think I need to go make a margarita, it is getting late and it is still snowing here.

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