Lovable, Livable La Paz!

Arriving at the bus station in downtown La Paz, I am immediately smitten.  The station is right on the malecón (waterfront,) with big floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking the calm turquoise bay.    Just a two hour bus ride, and I have gone from the Chaos of Cabo back to the Bliss of Baja.    My love affair is back on again.

This is the view from the glass doors of the La Paz bus station.  First thing you see when exiting.La Paz means "Peace," so this is the Dove of Peace.

This is the view from the glass doors of the La Paz bus station. First thing you see when exiting. La Paz means “Peace,” so this is the Dove of Peace.

"The Pearl," a tribute to La Paz's former pearl industry, featured in John Steinbeck's novel.

“The Pearl,” a tribute to La Paz’s former pearl industry, location of John Steinbeck’s novel by the same name.

The malecon is lined with these beautiful bronze sculptures.

The malecon is lined with these beautiful bronze sculptures.

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I have a couple of hotels picked out from my Moon Guide.  Experience has proven so far that prices are lower than what is actually listed in the guidebook, which is typically not the case.  So I decide to stop by the Hotel Mediterranean, but at 900 pesos per night, it is out of my price range.   So I keep walking.

Street lamps (see far right) are little sailboats turned on their side.

Street lamps (see far right) are little sailboats turned on their side.

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The most terrifying thing in all of La Paz!

The most terrifying thing in all of La Paz!

Soon I come to my second choice, Pension Baja Paradise, only a block up from the malecón.   I am unsure of the conditions, as the outside looks like a thatched hut perched oddly on a residential street.  I ask to have a look around, when I see a box of empty extra-large Indio and Modelo beer bottles in the communal kitchen, so my first thought is “Oh, dear, this is Backpacker Party Central.”  But my backpack is weighing heavier due to the heat, so pay for one night anyway.   My fears are assuaged however, as I soon realize I am the only one in the place, save for all the chirping birds in the courtyard.  It is one of those places where you don’t expect anything to work, i.e. AC, wifi, in-room fridge, hot water, comfortable bed, but when it all does, it’s a delightful surprise.

The waterfront street has closed three times while I have been here.  Once for a run, next for a bicycle race, and finally when the bikers roared through town.

The waterfront street has been closed three times while I have been here. Once for a run, next for a bicycle race, and finally when the bikers roared through town.

Another shrimp cocktail from one of my favorite seaside restaurants,  Mariscos El Molinito

Another shrimp cocktail from one of my favorite seaside restaurants,
Mariscos El Molinito

Sunset view from Mariscos El Molinito

Sunset view from Mariscos El Molinito

My first night here, I stroll along the 3 mile paved malecón soaking in what La Paz is known for, it’s glorious sunsets.  Before I know it, I am paying for another night at Pension Baja Paradise.  And another.  And another.

Pelicans on the rocks

Pelicans on the rocks

Recognize this guy?

Recognize this guy?

It's my fellow dive buddy, Jacques Cousteau.

It’s my fellow dive buddy, Jacques Cousteau.

Nightly strolls to watch the sunset find me surrounded by locals, lovers, skateboarders, roller bladers, bicyclers, musicians, all with a “happy vibe.”   The waterfront is lined with open air restaurants offering dinner straight from the sea.  They all point toward the nightly show in the western sky.  The air is warm and smells of the salty sea, but the surrounding desert keeps humidity low.   The only “crowds” I encounter are at the local ice cream shop, La Fuente, where the homemade “waffle bowls” are worth the wait.

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Paz

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Paz

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Pier is popular with lovers, musicians, and weed enthusiasts.

Pier is popular with lovers, musicians, and weed enthusiasts.

La Paz is one of those places that still feels like Mexico, yet is supported with enough creature comforts that one can still get a taste of “home.”   There are farmers markets offering fresh baked breads and organic produce, and a few hip coffee shops that are what a Starbucks most undoubtedly was once, and still wishes it could be.

Saturday Farmers Market

Saturday Farmers Market

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Orange Juice, fresh squeezed while you wait, about 75 cents.

Orange Juice, fresh squeezed while you wait, about 75 cents.

IMG_8785Though La Paz is Baja’s second largest city, you would never know it by the quaint charm of the downtown area.  If you must, a Walmart and Home Depot are just far enough away from the downtown area to be “out of sight, out of mind.”  And the small, easy to navigate airport makes it possible to get out of town quickly with ease. Or you can hop on a ferry to reach mainland Mexico, either to Mazatlan or Los Mochis, the southern terminus for El Chepe, the Copper Canyon train.   It has all the infrastructure to support tourism, yet the giant cruise ships are cordoned off in a harbor 20 kms out of town.

My favorite sculpture of all, the breaching whale

My favorite sculpture of all, the breaching whale

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But the thing I love most about La Paz is the “sailor vibe.”  The Sea of Cortez is a sailor’s haven, and I have longed to sail it for years.  In fact, I had my sailing pals back east convinced to do a charter back in 2012, just before Moorings closed their base in La Paz unexpectedly.   Blanketed on both ends by marinas filled with beautiful yachts is all it takes for me to long to be at the helm again.   As I am walking the malecón during a scarlet sunset night, I hear myself saying “I am coming back here one day….on a sailboat.”   I could swear I heard a voice replying “Why yes, Suzanne….yes you are!”

“Some quality there is in the whole Gulf that trips a trigger of recognition so that in fantastic and exotic scenery one finds oneself nodding and saying inwardly, ‘Yes, I know.’” ~ John Steinbeck

Here’s tonight’s lodging:

The quaint little Pension Baja Paradise, 450 pesos ($27 USD)  per night.  Single room was only 370, but I upgraded to a double room to have more light.

The quaint little Pension Baja Paradise, 450 pesos ($27 USD) per night. Single room was only 370, but I upgraded to a double room to have more light.

$27 Bathroom View

$27 Bathroom View

13 thoughts on “Lovable, Livable La Paz!

  1. I love all the sculptures, my favourite is the backside of Jacques! He actually taught my grandfather to scuba dive as part of his SAS training during WWII.

  2. Much to your credit, your words quite brilliantly reproduce your feelings in your readers, or at least this reader. As I read yesterday’s installment aloud to Gary, I found my shoulders tightening up, but today . . . just the opposite. A sense of relaxation and deep breaths of the happiness of La Paz replacing the tautness of Cabo.

    It was the same when I was reading your book – your happiness was my happiness.

    The sculptures are quite stunning. The ability of artists always mystifies me. How do they know where to cut or place?

    Virtual hugs,

    Judie

  3. Very often our bus stations are hidden away in the back streets. Love the statues. Judging from your photos of the places it all looks a very clean and tidy, no litter.

  4. Love your description of this place, it’s so beautiful and quaint and the pictures are amazing! Thank you for sharing!

  5. Hi reading this my wife and I are very inspired we are due to arrive in La Paz on the 26th March with our three year old son. La Paz looks fantastic!
    Apologies for asking but…… we need some help
    Looking for the Pension Baja website but cant find it I think that must also be part of its charm. Can you tell me what the best number is to ring and make a booking please?
    Regards
    Adam

    • Hi Adam, thanks for following the blog. I have now left La Paz, but my Moon Guide shows the number to be 612/128-6097. If that doesn’t work, you might try posting to the Trip Advisor forum. Hope you enjoy La Paz as much as I did.

  6. sure wish there was a Love button~
    Barney and i were in Cabo a month and then La Paz a month probably in 08..
    he went scuba diving in La Paz, and the sea lions were plentiful~ one nudging right behind him~ thinking it was his scuba buddy following a little too close~ sweet surprise.
    sure don’t remember all of those fabulous sculptures~
    your photo’s are incredible!!
    thanks~

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