Todos Magicos, Todos Santos!

Continuing on my journey south, I am getting within striking distance of “Land’s End,” Cabo San Lucas.  But there is one stop I want to make along the way, about an hour north of Cabo to check out a “magic town.”

Leaving Loreto

Leaving Loreto

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Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) has a program called “Pueblos Magicos,” or “Magic Villages” to recognize certain towns for a their historic or cultural ambiance that lends itself to a “magical experience.”   There are currently 83 towns in the program.  I have had the good fortune to visit several of these towns; Patzcuaro, San Cristobal de las Casas, Calpulálpam de Mendez, El Fuerte, Angangueo, and Chipas de Corzo, with the intent to visit many more.   So I wasn’t about to miss the opportunity to cross another “Pueblo Magico” off the bucket list, Todos Santos.

The stretch of road leaving Loreto is quite curvy!

The stretch of road leaving Loreto is quite curvy!

Climbing the mountains via hair pin curves

Climbing the mountains via hair pin curves

IMG_8218Todos Santos, a quiet, quaint little town on the western side of Baja, was designated as a “pueblos Magicos” in 2006.   There is a rather large expat community living in town, but they are much more the aging hippie type rather than the more snooty San Miguel bonnet-wearing highbrows.   People are very friendly here.  While sitting in an outdoor taco stand, one woman even stopped to tell me about a concert taking place that night!  This bohemian artist vibe thrives, particularly once the day-trippers have left town.IMG_8292 IMG_8351 IMG_8356

The historic side of town centers around the former location of the Misión de Santa Rosa de Todos Santos, founded in 1723.  This location of the “vista” of the former mission (and current, more modern structure) forms the keystone of the main plaza, flanked by the Teatro Marquez de Leon, where an “off broadway-style” play takes place on weekends.

One of the many beautiful art studios around town.

One of the many beautiful art studios around town.

This mural depicts inhabitants of Todos Santos starting with indigenous people on the left, all the way to surfers on the right.

This mural depicts inhabitants of Todos Santos starting with indigenous people on the left, all the way to surfers on the right.

 

Handicraft shops abound.

Handicraft shops abound.

Roof Repair

Roof Repair

The town is best known for its handicraft shops and art galleries, many of which have lovingly restored and occupied historic 100-year old brick buildings. Though the shops are pricey, they are not as pretentious as one might think from a place billed as “Baja’s Santa Fe.”IMG_8240 IMG_8355

One of my favorite things about Mexico -- Hammocks!

One of my favorite things about Mexico — Hammocks!

I drop my bags off at the Hotel Guluarte, where the “hotel reception” is right in the middle of a laundromat in the courtyard which doubles as the hotel lobby.   I wait in line to pay for my room, backpack on my back, behind people waiting to pick up their bags of folded laundry.   I question having deviated from my typical plan of not choosing the absolute cheapest room available in town, but Todos Santos is a bit more pricey than the towns I have visited so far.  She tells me there is wifi available, but only after I have unpacked do I discover it is “available” only on the laundromat level, not in my second floor room.   Thankfully, wifi is consistently available in most restaurants and coffee shops.

Even the menu appears as art work on the walls of my favorite coffee shop, Caffe' Todos Santos

Even the menu appears as art work on the walls of my favorite coffee shop, Caffe’ Todos Santos

Taco George's serves fish tacos extraordinaire.

Taco George’s serves fish tacos extraordinaire.

One of my best meals in Baja at La Casitas,  Seared sea bass in tequila-jalapeno reduction.

One of my best meals in Baja at La Casitas, Seared sea bass in tequila-jalapeno reduction.

Todos Santos offers a bit more innovative “fusion-style” dining, with lots of coffee shops and higher end restaurants.  Things have been getting consistently more expensive the further south I go, as tastes become more sophisticated to match the prices. Thankfully, there are still plenty of “street food” options to fit within my budget. I had some of my best tacos in Todos Santos, both Baja’s famous fish tacos, as well as the “Vampiro,” my latest love; a fire toasted tortilla with Chihuahua cheese and carne asada on top, drizzled with any number of in-house made salsas.

I draw the line at "Cabeza" (cow head) tacos, though, no matter how charming the proprietor!

I draw the line at “Cabeza” (cow head) tacos, though, no matter how charming the proprietor!

Cabeza tacos use all parts of the head, even the skulls for decoration.

Cabeza tacos use all parts of the head, even the skulls for decoration.

Which one if these is not like the others?

Which one if these is not like the others?

I have been moving at a pretty fast clip down the peninsula.  But I’ve been gone for two weeks already, and as often as Margie tells me “Stay as long as you like!  The Winnie is fine,” I really don’t want to wear out my welcome, even if it is just “driveway surfing.”  But I also know that I may get down to the end, all the way to Cabo San Lucas where I have allotted a bit of extra time, and wish I had spent that time somewhere along the way.

I guess they figure with all the tourists from California, they are entitled to use the name.

I guess they figure with all the tourists from California, they are entitled to use the name.

Self Portrait

Self Portrait

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So I decide to stay two more nights in the magical Todos Santos…

Here’s tonight’s lodging:

Hotel Guluarte for 400 pesos  ($23 USD) per night (laundry not included)

Hotel Guluarte for 400 pesos ($23 USD) per night (laundry not included)

$23 per night bathroom view

$23 per night bathroom view

11 thoughts on “Todos Magicos, Todos Santos!

    • Hi, Dave — A belated “thanks” for the nice comments you made about the blog in the previous post. Much appreciated! I did not hear the Eagles song playing, but then I only went inside in the early morning.

  1. HI there. Have enjoyed your posts of your travels down through Baja. We have visited in Todos Santos lots of years ago when we stayed in Cabo. Looks so much better than it did then, but am sure you are doing a more indepth visit than our day trip. Have always been told the Hotel California (looks good with a new paint job) was referred to in the song “Hotel California” by the Eagles., which used to be one of it’s claim to fame.

    • Hi, BJ! Nice to hear from you!

      I guess there are many speculations about the reference in the Eagles song, but I did a little research while there, and they maintain it was more of a sociopolitical metaphor rather than an actual place. But there are some interesting coincidences cited here:

      http://hotelcaliforniabaja.com/history.html

      Lots of interesting history there, regardless!

  2. As always, such stunning pictures of the area. The colors are magnificent. What a great adventure you are having! ;->

    Virtual hugs,

    Judie

  3. I would love to pick your brain. What an adventurer. And such independence. Just when I think you’re the social butterfly when with “The Gang”, you completely blow my mind and (ad)venture off on your own…in “Baja” no less…all the way to Land’s End…by bus…alone. Yahoo!!!

    You know, Matzatlan is only a ferry boat ride east from Cabo. Jus say’n. 🙂 You go girl!

  4. I can almost taste the delicious pictures of your meals. I have never been to the Baja but your wonderful posts have changed my mind about going. Thanks for the education!

  5. Love seeing the world thru your lens– and eloquence.
    Have to laugh when you mentioned laundry– we dropped off our full truck of Baja abused clothes in a Todos casa lavadora. It rained hard a few hours later. Those clothes were stretched out sagging on a rope the entire length of the house. Didn’t dry out until 3 days later–hanging over bushes in Cabo Pulmo. Wonderful that you are mixing up your travel style. And inviting us along!

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