Lots to Love in Lisbon!

So why Portugal, one might ask? Well, it’s a country I haven’t yet pinned on my wall map. That’s reason enough. But while Portugal’s extensive coastline as a place I have long wanted to explore, it wasn’t in my “Top Five.” But more and more, I have been seeing Portugal show up in the “listicles” as of late. Just Google “Why visit Portugal?” and you will come up with a long list of articles citing anywhere from 10 to 45 reasons to visit Portugal. TAP, Portugal’s national airline, just added five weekly flights from Chicago, with another five from San Francisco, even more significant as it adds the first nonstop option from the west coast.

I remember ten years ago when my Icelandic hairdresser, Helga, used to tell me I needed to travel to Iceland. Back then, vacationing in Iceland was practically unheard of. Now, they recently had to close a canyon featured in Justin Bieber’s video because it was being overrun by rabid fans. Once an area of free rein for camper vans, one must now camp in designated campgrounds because people were peeing in public places. Venice, Amsterdam, Paris, Barcelona, and Bruge, Belgium have all recently instated measures to prevent “over tourism.” So I decided to move Portugal up the list while it was still reasonably affordable, the people were friendly and welcoming, and the sights did not require months of advance booking. I want to go there before articles in my newsfeed change from “Reasons why you must go” to “How Portugal is coping with overtourism.”

Otherwise, I was relatively neutral about the country. My Lonely Planet arrived just two weeks before I was to depart. Other than book my first three nights in Lisbon, I had done very little research. So I had no expectations going in. But upon approach to Lisbon’s Portela Airport, gliding in over the red tiled rooftops all laid out in patterned grids, I was intrigued.

The tiled facades of the apartment buildings all have beautiful wrought iron balconies, useful on laundry day.

Such a colorful, lively look to what could otherwise be a concrete building.

Some of the tiled facades are quite elaborate with accent borders.

Public transportation in Portugal is convenient and efficient. They have kiosks with an option for English (click the icon of the British Union Jack) which accepts Euro cash or Visa/MC card. You must purchase a Viva Viagem card (€ 0.50) which you can then choose to load and reload in a number of ways. The card is good for transit on the Metro, city buses, trams, and regional light rail trains. You can purchase a.) an individual ride at € 1.50, b.) unlimited travel for a 24 hour period beginning at validation for 6.50 € (but you must take five rides to get your moneys worth on this one) or c.) you can go the route of what they call “zapping,” which is to use the card as a stored value card. Put anywhere from € 3.00 to € 40.00, and the system deducts the appropriate fare (less € 0.10 discount) with each “zap.” I chose option c, which is the best value if you don’t plan on riding five times in 24 hours. While the terminology is different, it mirrors the system of the Manhattan subway. It’s good to step off the plane into something that immediately feels so familiar.

The Metro leaves from the airport, taking me within a 10 minute walk of my hotel. The first thing I notice upon exiting the Metro is the beautiful tiles! Tiles above me, tiles below me, it’s like a life-sized china shop. Instead of paint or siding, the multi-story buildings, apartments, and houses are tiled from top to bottom in blue and white, green, brown, pink, yellow, their giant windows framed with wrought iron balconies. They all look so decorative and clean! And rarely a tile missing!

It seems that no two are the alike.

Even the older buildings in disrepair are still beautiful with their colorful facades.

Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, one of the more famous tiled buildings in the Chiado neighborhood, dating from 1863, covered in yellow and orange tiles depicting mythological images

Some Art Nouveau influence as well.

And then there are the sidewalks. As soon as I take a few steps, it clicks in my mind, it’s Portuguese pavement! Anyone who has visited Brazil, once part of the Portuguese Empire will immediately recognize the black and white mosaics of the two most famous beaches in Rio de Janerio, Copacabana and Ipanema, bordered by these famous patterned designs. So now I get it. Calçada Portuguesa, it’s not just Brazilian, but a Portuguese thing!

This bronze statue is a monument to the Lisbon pavers.

The workers constructing the art in the pavement are called “calceteiros.” It’s a dying art due to low pay and wear on the knees.

I became somewhat obsessed by the beautiful sidewalks and plazas here. Too many to photograph, so I had to make a collage. (Thanks, Gayle for showing me how.)

I find the precision of these hand-laid designs to be fascinating…not a stone out of line anywhere.

I think the mosaics are even prettier when people are dancing across them.

The undulating wave pattern of Praça do Rossio, or Rossio Square, considered the center of the city

Another view of Rossio Square, where I seem to traverse daily. Lucky for me, the beautiful purple Jacarandas are in bloom.

Praça dos Restauradores, or Monument to the Restorers, memorializing the victory of the Portuguese Restoration War, 1640 to 1668.

In 1755, Lisbon suffered a massive earthquake which devastated most of the city. The building of these intricately hand-laid mosaic sidewalks followed, using rubble from the earthquake, later to be replaced by white limestone and black basalt. The first area to be built was Rossio Square, which follows the same undulating wave pattern as Rio’s Copacabana.

But heed a word of warning; these works of art can quickly turn treacherous at the first sprinkles of even the lightest of rain. It’s imperative that you bring sturdy, flat, non-slip shoes for walking the Seven Hills of Lisbon!

(A funny side note, back when I was working for Braniff Airlines in the early 80’s, I took my parents to Rio de Janerio, Brazil. We came upon an area where the calceteiros were working on the pavement. My Mom snatched up two stones, one black and one white, from the construction pile. She brought them back as souvenirs to imbed in the floor to ceiling flagstone fireplace she and my Dad were building in the “Family Room,” or converted garage on the farm where they still remain. Maybe that is why I am so enamored with the Portuguese pavement!)

Like Manhattan, Lisbon is a city that embraces its riverfront, making good use of outdoor space along the Tagus River.

The Tagus is the longest river in the Iberian Peninsula, running through Spain, dissecting Portugal, and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Lisbon.

On the left, you see Cristo Rei, the Catholic Monument to Christ, another similarity to Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. On the right is the 25 Abril Bridge, a suspension bridge of similar color to SFO’s Golden Gate.

With 1,115 miles of coastline, seafood plays a big part in the Portuguese diet.

However, no fish is more of a staple than “Bacalhau,” dried, salted codfish (brings me back to Newfoundland!)

Okay, well, maybe sardines beat out the bacalhau, at least in summertime. While many might not care for their “fishy” taste, I love the fresh ones, grilled and served staring back at me.

But Portugal’s most famous treat is no doubt the Pastel de Nata, an egg custard tart in flaky pastry shell. These are found on almost every corner.

Rick Steves says one of the things you must do in Lisbon is stop in at the small A Ginjinha bar, traditional home of the drink just known as “Ginja,” fortified wine that has been infused with Ginja cherries and sugar.

My blurry attempt at sharing my shot, but you get the idea.

Lisbon is enjoying San Diego-like weather while I am visiting, making outdoor eating a treat.

No opportunity is missed to put out a sidewalk cafe, no matter how narrow.

Starting early afternoon, these tables are filled with beer and wine drinkers. Sadly, smokers too.

Lisbon is a thriving, vibrant, hip city…a little Manhattan, but more San Francisco. The city is manageably broken up into a dozen different smaller neighborhoods, each with their own unique personalities. There’s an “electricity” here like you find in Manhattan without the grit, grime, and garbage smells of my beloved NYC. Because each sidewalk, plaza, courtyard is covered in the work of the calceteiros or pavers, one is literally walking on art, so the sidewalks seem cleaner.

There’s a lively food scene offering constantly changing chalkboard menus featuring “petiscos,” Portugal’s version of Spain’s tapas. And wine bars show off Portugal’s abundance of good, affordable wines. It’s love at first sight for me, as It ticks all the boxes as far as a city goes; Art, museums, monuments, markets, trams, and a lively waterfront. I look forward to sharing more…

Time Out Magazine has an interesting food court model in Lisbon. They took over half of the Mercado da Ribeira for a massive food court. But unlike most food courts, this one serves gourmet food offerings on real china plates with legit wine glasses. Communal seating for the solo traveler is a good option, plus no waiting on a table!

Over 40 outlets in the food court, with one end being dedicated to offsprings of the cities Michelin starred chefs at “budget-friendly” prices. Time Out’s slogan is “If it’s good, it goes in the magazine, if it’s great, it goes into the market.”

My tender grilled octopus on mashed potatoes and spinach chased down with a chilled Rose’ definitely falls into the “great” category!

The Seven P’s

My time spent back in Texas was dominated by trying to replace my electronic arsenal, piece by piece. This was even more frustrating considering that when it comes to electronics, the old adage “They just don’t make ‘em like they used to” seems to ring true in every case. The new laptop has a less optimal screen and cheaper plastic. The new iphones are gigantic, weighting down my pants pocket. And the ipod, once a phenomenal music storage workhorse designed to fit in the tiniest of places now exists Continue reading

Blue Interlude

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And Finally…Cuenca!

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For those of you who stuck with me through the Quito chaos, sailing 8 days through the Galapagos, and five stops along the Wanderbus circuit, I thank you. While the country of Ecuador is only half the size of Texas, there is much to see here, with enriching cultural experiences that are as varied as the topography. So while it has been a bit of a struggle to get the blog caught up, I wanted to get it all down before the memories began to fade. Continue reading

All Out Assault on Alausi

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Riding Rails Up the Devil’s Nose

I’ve expressed my love for trains on many occasions on this blog. Doesn’t matter how touristy, how pricey, how short or how long, if there is a train in town, I’m going to hop it. I attribute this love to many things. First, I came by it honestly. My Dad hopped into an open box car and rode all the way from Texas to California when he was only 18 years old. Wanderlust runs deep in the genes. Continue reading

On Ozogoche and Eating in Ecuador

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Baños, Ecuador’s “Adventure Capital”

The Lonely Planet travel guide describes my next stop along the Wanderbus route, Baños, as a “mixed bag.” Between their description of “garish tour operators, cut-price spas, and budget accommodations” that’s not exactly a glowing endorsement to lure me in, particularly when it is also billed as the “adventure center of Ecuador.” Too much testosterone. However, the name of the town which is actually Baños de Agua Santa, means “baths.” In other words, hot springs! It would take a pretty abysmal description to get me to skip a place named for its hot springs. Continue reading

Quilatoa Crater Rim Hike

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Cotopaxi National Park to Pujilí

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