Just how long can one stretch out a story about the Grand Canyon, one might ask? Well, longer than the average visitor spends on the edge of the rim…
I decide to stay one more day on the snowy South Rim, after all, no one seems to notice that the Winnie is taking up space in the empty Backcountry Office parking lot. Continue reading
The “wake up knock” comes on the Phantom Ranch women’s dorm door at 5:00am. I’ve signed up for the 5:30am early breakfast in order to get on the trail as early as possible. The sun doesn’t rise until 7:15, so this will mean hiking for about an hour in the dark, but I figure it’s better to put in the dark time at the bottom of the canyon rather than risk having to hike in the dark at the top where it’s covered in snow and ice. Continue reading
I make it to Phantom Ranch’s Canteen in plenty of time to down a couple of beers before they close at 4:00pm to prepare for the evening meals. But first, Kate, the bartender/hostess/receptionist/wait staff tells me to go to the dorm first to secure my spot. “Pick any available bed that has a towel folded on it.” It’s late in the afternoon, so I am thinking I’ll be lucky if I can secure a lower bunk. Continue reading
It’s eight degrees when I wake up in the Backcountry Information Office parking lot on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Even Siri says “brrrr!”
There are three Hiker’s Express shuttles that go directly from the Backcountry Information Office to the South Kaibab Trail at 7:00am, 8:00am, and 9:00am. I figure I will shoot for the middle shuttle, and that will still allow me one other chance if I miss it. Halfway through my morning routine, I vacillate between slowing down for the 9am or speeding up for the 8am. I am having a tough time cramming all my belongings for a two night stay into little more than a day pack, so I think maybe delaying another hour later won’t hurt. But then I remember the magnitude of the hike and shortness of the Continue reading