The next jaunt down Highway 1 is a short one – only a 90 minute bus ride to Loreto. My Moon Guide describes Loreto as “sleepy” and “relatively undiscovered.” I would describe it as “mediocre.” Yes, it was beautiful, clean, new, nicely developed, but it also felt a bit “sanitized.” Somewhat “midwestern” in that it lacked the grittiness of Ensenada, the charm of Mulegé, or the glimmering white beaches of the Bahia. Maybe it was because it reminded me of a “convention town.” There were two organized gatherings taking place while I was there; Baja Bush Pilots, and the Harley Davidson club, complete with booze, buffet tables, and big bands. Continue reading
Category Archives: Travelogs
The Curves and Culture of Bahía Concepción
As I mentioned in the previous post, the town of Mulegé is tiny. There are six taxis. Not taxi companies, mind you, but six taxi cabs! Two of the six cabs belong to Salvador and his brother Ignacio. Salvador runs the only tour company in town, typically offering tours to see the cave paintings in nearby La Trinidad. Having spent the last year touring ancestral puebloan cave paintings, petroglyphs and pictographs in the west, I am not really up for more cave paintings right now. But I sure would love to go to the beach. Continue reading
Moo-leh-hey and the Beautiful Bay
One of the benefits of traveling the “Gringo Trail,” i.e. staying in hotels and following the recommended itinerary in guidebooks like the Moon Guide or Lonely Planet is that you end up interacting with like-minded travelers. This can be a blessing and a curse. It can tend to insulate one from the local culture, but at the same time, the exchange of information among fellow travelers is invaluable. Continue reading
The Black Warrior and the Gray Whale
The town of Guerrero Negro was purportedly named for a sunken ship, the Black Warrior, an American whaling ship that sunk back in the 1850’s. It’s a small town that reminds me of some of the more desolate towns on Indian reservations. There is a casino there, a few restaurants, and little else along the dusty stretch of Highway 1 that runs through town. Continue reading
La Boheme by Candlelight
The stretch down Highway 1 to my next destination is a long one, requiring eight hours of travel. Bus schedules are not as frequent in the northern state of Baja de Norte as they are further south, so I have the option of leaving at 10:00am and spending all day on the bus, or leaving after dark and sleeping on the bus. No question, I want to see as much of the countryside as possible. Continue reading
The Road to Ensenada
Margie has a floor to ceiling wine cellar larger than her walk-in closet with a wine collection that makes her shoe racks pale in comparison. We go down and pick out a nice bottle of Shiraz to share. While sitting across the bar from pistachio-eating husband Chris, he asks, “So where you headed?” “I have no idea. I was thinking about Rosarito.” “hhhmmmm….I don’t think you would like that. It’s full of drunk college kids. Better keep going on down to Ensenada. It’s a nice waterfront. Great food. I think you’ll like it.” Continue reading
The Bus, The Backpack, and The Baja
My long time friend Margie (not to be confused with “Marcia” in the last post) lives in El Cajon, just outside of San Diego. I have known her for 24 years. Back in 1993 when I decided to change everything about my life, get myself out of a bad marriage, sell my house and car, and transfer from Texas to Manhattan for a new job, Margie was my first New York friend. I had accepted a transfer as National Account Manager for American Express. My client would be the United Nations, and I would have an office on the 19th floor of the Secretariat Building. A big leap for a farm girl from Texas. Continue reading
One if by Land, Two if by Sea
While I was in San Diego, I decided to call on a “friend of a friend.” My best sailing pal Nancy back in New York has a friend, Marcia, who lives full time on a 38 ft. Hunter in the marina on Harbor Island. I have long had a dream to live aboard a sailboat. In fact, were it not for my poor chart navigation skills, it might have been a sailboat rather than an RV… Continue reading
Called by the Lure of the Sea
Aaaaaahhhhh…..now that feels better! Nothing sooths my desert scorched nerves like the sight of the ocean. And nothing needed soothing like my desert scorched nerves!
I hadn’t originally planned to return to San Diego, but I had a few things I wanted to get done here. First and foremost, I needed a beach fix. And the fact that my favorite beach here just happens to be across the bike path from the brewery, well…. Continue reading
Anza Borrego: Beauty and the Beast
Beauty and the Beast — Just as art imitates life, “which is which” is in the eyes of the beholder.
I like to think I am a person who can find the beauty anywhere….well, almost anywhere. Particularly when those places lean toward the extreme or exotic. Continue reading