The tourist influx is in full swing in Twillingate, with people racing from cove to cove asking “Have you seen any icebergs?” like it was a game of real life pokemon. It’s an energy that’s hard to describe, but I haven’t felt it since leaving the crowded Bay of Fundy. I’ve come to thrive on the solitude I’ve experienced since being in Newfoundland, and as my friend Ed recently said, “I miss the empty.” Continue reading
I’ve been eager to get on to Twillingate, southern end of “Iceberg Alley” for some time now, as reports on the Newfoundland Iceberg Facebook group show giant skyscrapers of ice floating just offshore. If Saint Anthony’s holds the lock on iceberg viewing at the northern end of Iceberg Alley, Twillingate reigns as the place to be at the southern end. I’ve been patiently anticipating my arrival in Twillingate, not wanting to rush through my planned stops in between, but eager to finally arrive. Continue reading
One of the great things I have come to enjoy about Gros Morne National Park is given its popularity, it does not feel overly crowded. It’s a treat to stop at the Visitor Center and ask the staff “What are the most scenic hikes here?” without the fear of encountering a human highway on the trail.
A couple of friends and followers asked if I was going to explore further in Labrador…either further north up the gravel road toward Cartwright, or back down to the southern shores of Quebec. It’s so tempting! Both seem like such beautiful places with so much to see! I would love to go further in either direction. But I haven’t even scratched the surface of Newfoundland yet, and still need to leave time to explore more of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, since I blew through on my way north.
Wise were the travelers who came to the maritimes earlier in the year, as one could certainly spend months up here without running out of places to explore. Already, I am trying to figure out how I will fit it all in. Continue reading
I am not sure what first drew me to Battle Harbour. I think it may have been the advertisement in Newfoundland’s “Lost and Found” travel brochure. Maybe it was the article with the word “Escape” in the title. Or maybe it was the promise of a place where “the distance is as much metaphorical as it is physical.”
I’ve always gravitated to historic places with a feel for authenticity….that promise realism of what life was like so long ago, yet also understate the conveniences and comforts of present day. I don’t really care for places like Williamsburg with its spiffy Continue reading
Red Bay, up the rugged coast of Labrador, is one of Canada’s newer UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Awarded the UNESCO status in 2013, this sheltered bay was once a thriving whale fishery, driven by the demand for whale oil used for lighting and manufacturing in Europe.
Between 1530 and the early part of the 16th century, Basque people from Spain and southern France would travel over in the spring, setting up what was the world’s first industrial scale fishing industry, Continue reading
Have you ever had one of those times when things just seem surreal? When you ask yourself “Is this reality, or maybe I have died, and this heaven?” Like a series of things that “never happen,” happen all at once?
I’ve had an ongoing love affair with lighthouses since I was a small child, allowed to climb the tower of the Port Isabel lighthouse on our family vacations to South Padre Island. So consider the irony that I end up spending the night with a lighthouse called “Amour,” defined as “a secret or illicit love affair or lover.” Continue reading
My northernmost point on the island of Newfoundland is L’Anse aux Meadows, UNESCO World Heritage site at the end of The Viking Trail.
If one is to write an honest blog, it sometimes means confessing to one’s ignorance. Prior to my visit to L’Anse aux Meadows, my knowledge of Leif Erikson was relegated to high school history class when Leif was used as an example of a “patronym,” the naming convention of a person’s surname being based on the given name of one’s father. Leif Erikson was “Erik’s son,” son of “Eric the Red,” who was credited with discovering Greenland. Continue reading
It’s 220 miles from Gros Morne to the end of the Northern Peninsula. That’s a typical driving day for me. I try not to go much more than 200 miles in stretch, but since I’m not towing, that should be a breeze. Except for the breeze. I don’t account for the strong, gusting crosswinds that blow in from the ocean at gale force, nor do I account for the road surface that looks like swiss cheese. By the time I reach St. Anthony, the northernmost town on the peninsula, I feel like I have wrestled an angry elephant. Continue reading
Continuing with my loose strategy to get north as quickly as possible before the icebergs melt, I am headed straight up the Northern Peninsula with as few stops as possible…with one exception. The Trans-Canada Highway passes right through the heart of Gros Morne National Park. The most notable highlight of this national park is the Western Pond Brook Tour. This two-hour boat ride across a glacially carved, fresh water lake can only be reached by a “two-ish” mile hike to the boat dock at the edge of the pond. Continue reading